|
Post by Teachndad on Apr 16, 2024 6:03:19 GMT -8
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Apr 16, 2024 5:53:44 GMT -8
Would it be possible to take the wheels off and roll the trailer on the brake drums? But that may be limited by the the ends of the U bolts on the axle. If the U-bolts extend beyond the radius of the drum, then it won't work.
This isn't my idea. Someone suggested this in a thread burried here years ago.
Another idea might be if you can find a pair of space saver wheels that are used for spare tires on cars. If you can find some with the same bolt pattern but smaller diameter, you might be able to use that. The center bore will have to clear the axle, though. Maybe remove the tire off the rim and roll it out on the space saver spare rims? But, again, the radius would have to extend past the ends of the U bolts of the axle. I picked up some space saver spares for about $20 each on CL back 8 years ago for a trailer project, but for a different use.
How much drop do you need? Could airing down the tires help?
Cheers,
Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 29, 2024 5:22:17 GMT -8
Hey Mandi,
What grit did you use for sanding? Did you just hand sand with a sanding block? Did you consider using denatured alchohol to remove the old shellac or just sand away?
I have two trailers. One a 1963, and that the shellac is flaking off in most of the trailer. You can rub your hand along the surface and it just comes off like a powder. In another trailer from the late 50s, the shellac is not flaking.
What was the surface like on your surfaces before you started sanding?
thanks
Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 27, 2024 6:26:26 GMT -8
This question is addressed to John. How do you replace the through bolts that go through the shackles? With this suspension design, can the through bolts be replaced? Are these wetbolts? I don't see any zerk fittings. Thanks, Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 27, 2024 6:12:34 GMT -8
Hi everyone I'm new here and new to the camper thing. I bought myself a real beater a fixer upper for $200 from a buddy of mine. I have no idea what year or model this is and I'm way too ashamed to send pictures because it is a mess I was able to find the VIN under the tongue on the inside but not on the curbside of the tongue. My vin is s6331. Can you please help me figure out the model and year? Hello and Welcome, Boy, $200 purchase price! I can't wait to see pictures. The year of manufacture was 1969. We need to see pix to establish the model. Here is the link to set up pix. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/7276/add-photos-hosted-flickr-tutoriaCheers, Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 24, 2024 5:27:46 GMT -8
First thing that strikes me is the way undersized tires but, aren't these the frames where the tire can rub on the spring mount? Gotta watch that. Blocks and or rearched springs are a viable option. But if looking for more than 3 or 4 inches a non dropped axle is probably a better solution. If Teachndad pictures are accurate, it appears that the front mount of the spring can be modified for some extra height. Drilling a new set of holes for the front spring eye may be viable, moving the eye down 3 inches should net about 1.5 inches of lift. Thanks for adding to the conversation. I want to clarify that the pictures I posted are from an Aristocrat trailer, not the Nomad that is the focus of the thread. I only pointed out the drop floor frame pix as the Aristocrat floor design was similar to the Nomad. I have since edited my post above to now indicate that the frame images are from an Aristocrat. As to the suspension design in my post above, I don't know if it mirrors what's on the Nomad or if its different. Mocamino can enlighten us. Sorry about the confusion. Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 23, 2024 6:39:23 GMT -8
I will preface my response with this. I have limited knowledge of axles and suspensions. Do you have a matching wheel from some other vehicle that might fit the bolt pattern on the OzarK and it's a 225? Maybe install it and see if it fits into that wheel well if you ever need to do a side of the road tire change. Even an inch of lift that way is still and inch with the new tires you are planning for. Those low liner designed trailers have always intrigued me. A plus for getting it into a garage and a minus for dragging it's hiney in and out of driveways. Member Getnold, used longer shackles on her 57 Westerner. Maybe she will chime in on how that worked to lift the trailer. IMHO, The art will be to raise the trailer with whatever method is safely possible and not have the trailer look goofy. I would think 2 or 3 inches would still look appropriate. The profile now looks really cool. I will give you that, but I am not driving it around out in the world. I personally find the low rider look very attractive. One other thought I had was: Can the rear drag guards be shortened at all, but still stop the rear from dragging the rear bumper? For those lurking and not knowledgeable about these low rider frames, they look like this. The floor is "dropped". As an example, the image below is from a '69 Aristocrat Lo- Liner similar to the Nomad. You can find more images in this thread: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/9014/1969-aristocrat-lo-liner-rebuild like this one: or this one. I recommend clicking on any of the images in the above linked thread. It takes you to the OP's album with more pix.You can find more pictures of the frame than were posted in the restoration thread. Just my 2 cents. Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 23, 2024 5:27:01 GMT -8
Bob,
Check your PMs.
Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 22, 2024 4:45:12 GMT -8
Hi Sydney,
Those wheel wells were made of galvanized steel like the buckets of yore. The one my dad washed cars with over 60 years ago is still in use today at my parents house. I have had mine rip like yours. An alternative to fabrication is to have new ones made by a shop that builds ducting for air conditioning and heating. Unfortunately, it can be very pricey. Shop around for different prices. They can measure off what's left of your original wheel well and use the raw opening in the floor as an additional measurement.
Cheers,
Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 20, 2024 6:39:10 GMT -8
Hello and Welcome,
I love the "vintage" El Camino as a tow vehicle! Way to Go!
Ahhh yes, buy a second vintage trailer so you can enjoy the camping experience while restoring another. This is what I did and I haven't looked back. It's a fabulous idea. You just need the space for both, LOL.
Your trailers look cozy.
We look forward to hearing more about your trailers and experiences. Trip pix are welcome.
Cheers,
Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 20, 2024 6:29:36 GMT -8
Hello and Welcome Greg, Here is how to post pix to the forum. You will need a Flickr account. Here’s how: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/7276/add-photos-hosted-flickr-tutoria You can post links, too, but it’s just nicer if the pix are posted in the thread. For info on Easy Traveler, you can find information on the TCT or Tin Can Tourist site. Easy Traveler isn’t a well known brand, but pix will help to narrow down the date range of manufacture. Body design, windows and even marker lights can help once viewed. The VIN should be on the tongue of the trailer somewhere. This thread provides some good information on this. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/829/specific-location-vin-number#:~:text=Usually%20found%20near%20the%20top,8%20of%20an%20inch%20high. It’s based on a Shasta, but the locations are pretty much the same for most vintage trailers. BTW, vintage trailers had a serial number not a VIN. It’s common place for most people (including me until I was corrected) to call this number the VIN, but it’s really a serial number. But we know what you mean. We will look forward to seeing your trailer. Cheers, Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 16, 2024 4:16:03 GMT -8
Anyone can correct me, but if you go the new rims route, they come in different widths. As long as the rim meets the weight capacity, I think a narrower rim is better 5" vs. 5.5" or 6". To me anyway, it seems that since modern tires are wider, a narrower rim would help (incrementaly), but it might be just enough to help squeeze that puppy into a narrow wheel well that was designed for a narrower tire.
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 14, 2024 5:49:17 GMT -8
For posting photos with a link.
If you have the URL address of the photo, here is how you can post the photo in the response window at the end of a thread: In the lower right hand corner of your screen, click on the Go Advanced button. The response window will pop up. You will see many icons in a row. 2. Click on the photo icon. Two rectangles will show up in which you can paste the link for the photo you want to show. Paste the link into the cell that begins with Http://. Then click on the Create Post button.
Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 14, 2024 5:47:55 GMT -8
Thanks for all the help. It is in Canada. I’ve been to see the trailer, the inside is all panelling, including the kitchen cabinets/base cabinets and doors, which is strange. Like all cut out of single sheet of panelling with external hinges for cabinet doors. I’ll try to post pic. It has stove fridge and sink. Yes it has plenty of water damage. It’s a fixer upper for sure. The skin at back corners is separated from the corner trim about halfway up. Looks like someone practiced axe throwing (literally) on the side opposite of the door—that I haven’t figured out what I would do with yet! No name or badges anywhere. Guy knew little about the trailer and has no title so i need to check into what that would mean here in terms of insurance. Has a z shaped stripe on side opposite of door, but not on door side (door side seems painted white while the “axe” side with z stripe is unpainted alum. Just seems kinda odd. For the interior paneling to appear as coming from one sheet as you experienced is typical. The only difference here is that the darker brown paneling shows that it's more likely not a 50s trailer which were often had constructed with birch or ash paneling. This is a later trailer probably from mid 60s or later. The z stripe found on one side could be due to the long time placement of this trailer. When a trailer sits with one side. facing the sun, the paint on that side can fade. Be prepared for a lot of time, energy and $$ to bring this trailer back to towable condition. Trailers left in the open for years often have tiny four legged inhabitants that can set up camp and use the trailer as a bathroom. So, there is that and the time, energy and cost to make this trailer safe for the road. Make sure you have a protected area to work on the trailer. Also, makes sure you can title the trailer. I don't know if not knowing the make of the trailer will be a problem in your area. You don't want to get stuck with the trailer that you can't title. Cheers, Rod
|
|
|
Post by Teachndad on Mar 13, 2024 15:58:11 GMT -8
Hello and Welcome,
This trailer is very unusual. Specially, the lack of a front window and the a breaks in the skin appear unusual as well. The front curve reminds me of modern day trailer fronts. I noticed your screen name. Tells me you are most likely Canadian. That would lead me to believe that this may be a Canadian built trailer that you are looking at to buy.
From my experience with seeing Canadian built trailers introduced here on the forum is some of them look unusual or different than what we might see here south of the border. It's hard to judge quality of build from the quality of the photo provided. If you are an interested buyer, you need to see interior photos to assess water damage. They all have water damage unless it spent much of its life covered with a structure. The aluminum skin hides a lot.
Do you have any photos of the interior?
There is very little information out there on Canadian built trailers.
As to the age, it's a little bit of a tough call for me anyway. Might be very late 50s into @1965. Others may disagree. The jalousies seem a bit unusual for this trailer, though are most likely original. Generally, there will be a faded "badge" or a sticker above a front window or above the rear window.
Also, if you are interested in buying this trailer make sure it has paperwork with it that will allow you to register it with your Department of Motor Vehicles. It may not have the proper papers. Research this before you or anyone else buys a trailer.
Rod
|
|