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Post by Teachndad on Feb 11, 2024 6:52:31 GMT -8
Jesse, Thanks for posting all these pictures. I have polished window frame envy. I especially liked how you repaired the bottom of the door picture as well as the window polishing and lets not forget that screen door! We can all appreciate your work and learn. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 11, 2024 6:46:42 GMT -8
Thanks for pointing that out. I thought they were also called fridges. Never thought it had propane or electric. I just have the drain line, no propane line visible. I believe it was just an ice box fridge that didn't need vents. Is an "icebox" easier to find? Is an icebox smaller to fit through the door and are they lighter? Trailers with vents either had an original optional propane refrigerator or added vents is what I'm now gathering. I am looking for an original 1963 icebox, not a refrigerator. Greg, The iceboxes are easier to find, but still takes time/timing and luck. If you want to have original, then expect to expand your search geographically. Maybe a trip to Nevada? I am serious. You are probably aware of search tempest www.searchtempest.com/ with your car restorations. Search Tempest can be used for Facebook Marketplace as well as Craigslist. You might not need the info but maybe a newby could use this. I once chose to drive to Bakersfield about 2 hours away to pick up a nice princess stove for my Westerner I found on ebay. Larry (Mobiltec) often says that you are in for the longest treasure hunt of your life when you start one of these restorations. Yep, pretty much. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 11, 2024 6:36:55 GMT -8
Why not put the original part back and simply not use it so it looks more untouched outside? Good question. Sometimes in this business, you have to cut or destroy something to get it off or out of the trailer. For example: The water inlet on my Westerner could not be threaded off the feeder pipe. There was no way to get the skin over it when I was removing the skin, so i had to cut the pipe on the inside to allow removal of the skin. I had to toss the inlet in the trash. I was lucky to find an inlet a few years later to use. But sometimes that part you really need can't be found so you have to go to plan B. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 10, 2024 11:05:26 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Life continues to get in the way, but I persevere. So, not much to update. My last post concerned the rear radius. I posted here: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/13028/pocket-lumber-leave-originally-built?page=1&scrollTo=122215I thought I was done with the streetside wall until I noticed the... bulge. As seen here when the wall was still on the trailer. I had forgotten about it and missed it during the initial wall rebuild stage. An eyeball check of alignment caught it. Two studs and a crossmember were bent in a bulge. Image below is wall before with all original lumber. After with new lumber. Additional wall rebuild included an increase in the size of the header on the window as the original was partially split. I had the wider lumber so I used it. The shared stud had to be replaced and widened to guarantee purchase for screws and staples from the skin and window framing. The stud to the left which I had previously re anchored with glue and screws had to be removed. (I wasn’t happy) That necessitated a surgery to remove. I became anxious. Would this work? The surgery was successful. Many thanks to my friend Ihava Mulitool. Cutaway of sill Cutta way top of stud.
I am a kindergarten teacher not a wood craftsperson. (Star Trek reference) Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 9, 2024 6:49:01 GMT -8
Thanks Vikx for the response. I've seen this light on a few Shastas. flic.kr/p/2pwuGBx. Not sure why the picture isn't showing. I've spent over an hour trying. If I can't find a disc shade through a trailer site which is likely, I will try salvage yards and many hours on Ebay. Since fitting a fridge through the door is out I either need to make it look like an old ice box or exact matching cabinet door to the others. I deal in old house hardware, so I've seen many options, but I can only see those two mentioned options and finding the original exact matching hardware seems to be the easiest. Maybe the front 19 3/4" or less of an original refrigerator. I've seen many Shasta emblems, but all have been sold or are too pitted. Seems like the going rate is $70 to $90 if you can find one. Also am wondering if there are any suggestions to getting an extension cord and TV cable into the rear bed area. My floor seems solid, and it seems my only option is to drill through the soundboard and floor of the rear storage. I hate putting holes in good wood. I have shore power, but prefer to use it just for lights. Greg, If the fridge isn't in the trailer, then somehow they got it out of the trailer. That was my thinking. If you have a Marvel Fridge, the door comes off. My Rod and Reel was missing the fridge, so I figured if someone got it out, then I could get one in. We had to take the door and hinges off and turn it on it's side and slide it in. It took three of us... They are HEAVY as Vix stated. The door way wasn't square. The top half was narrower than the bottom half. That's why we had to turn it on its side. We had an 1/8 of an inch on each side to make it work. Once inside the trailer, I let it sit for a week before starting up and it works fine, now. As for the light fixture, in this business, sometimes you need to comprimise on what you want and what you can get. For example, if you are looking for a replacement fridge that was the original model fridge, they are made of unobtainium and very rare. That's one reason people put in the newer models. For your light fixture, you might just have to find a vintage fixture that isn't the same as original, but often found in other vintage trailers. Try searching ebay for a flush mount vintage cieling lamp/light or "Vintage Art Deco MCM Milk Glass Ceiling Coin Light Fixture Flush Mount Chrome" or use some of those words together in your search. I found one for what I thought was high priced at $89 plus shipping on ebay, but it was in nice condition. I found this on a Google search for $31.77 brand new. Made by Nuvo lighting. Always check the diameter. Some look like small bathroom fixtures. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 9, 2024 6:24:36 GMT -8
Hello and thanks for coming back and posting an update!
We really appreciate it. It's nice to see you are perservering.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 9, 2024 6:17:58 GMT -8
NCcamper's suggestion is a great one! Alumaweld, from what I have read works best on small holes. Based on that, I would assume that it would have never worked anyway on such a large hole. I have seen people use patches and they pop rivet in a patch over the hole. Not great, but will work. It should be sealed somehow to stop water penetration. Scraps of aluminum siding can be had at Hemet Valley RV. Apparently he can send you samples, but I am sure there is a nominal cost.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 9, 2024 6:11:00 GMT -8
Yah, Jesse, amazing work! I loved your treatment of hiding the AC unit with and the use of a draw slides. You got some mad skills there, bub. I wanted to comment on the fridge trim issue. I read in a magazine that you can use a vinyl door sweep to replace that now very brittle door trim. They are all cracked and chipped. I refer to the door sweeps that have self adhesive on the back. You can get them at any of the big box stores. Cut to size. Buy the color white. I think I saved the article to reference. I will see if I can find it. Also, I have a post here on VTT that describes how I replaced the fan motor and the saga it entailed for anyone researching Marvel fridges. In doing that research, I found folks painting the interior and getting continuous off gassing. I then found references to milk paint that can be used and that doesn't off gas. I have yet to paint the interior of my fridge and the outside is still in original but decent condition. You did a MARVELous job on your fridge painting. And nice sleuthing finding the source of the smell. Finally, these fridges as you may or may not know were designed to double as an ice box. Hence the angled tray on the top and the holes from the top tray for a drain line down to below the trailer. I will be camping for 7 days in April with my 1955 Rod and Reel and I am gonna find out how efficient this really works when I dry camp for 4 out of the 7 nights. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 8, 2024 6:51:10 GMT -8
Can you put pictures on of the Franklin? The links don't work. Hi and Welcome Virginia, The OP or original poster on this thread, only made three posts on the forum. The last one was in this thread back in October 2020. While I would like to say that they will see your post, I doubt they will return. Maybe I will be proved wrong? The bad links in the initial post tells me that they have moved on to other projects. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 4, 2024 6:28:01 GMT -8
Jesse, CONGRATULATIONS! On soooo much! You got your photos to post! and you figured out how to start the restoration as well as show your progress. Nicely done! You clearly have perseverance in you to have gotten you this far. It's A LOT of work to post upload, post and write captions for all those pix. Someone needs to go out to NW Montana and give this guy a beer. Sheesh! I for one, like watching the progress of a restoration as you posted in one place - pix with brief captions. You are taking us on a journey. People here want to see this stuff, that's why we are here. We are part of a community. I don't think it was boring. I rather enjoyed it. I sat down with my morning cup of java and your thread helped me get into the morning. Keep it comin! Rod Check your PM's
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 2, 2024 8:22:03 GMT -8
Hi! I have a Shasta 1500 with Vin P-3165. Do you have any idea of the year? The people I purchased it from are in the following categories: Wife says 1962 Husband says 1963, Registration says 1964. Hello and Welcome! Tell your wife she is wrong. I know she might not like that. Mine sure doesn't. Not getting into family dynamics, here. Your trailer was manufactured in 1964 at the Leola, Pennsylvania plant. We encourage you to share pictures and join the community. Here's how to share pictures on the forum. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/7276/add-photos-hosted-flickr-tutorial?page=5&scrollTo=122206Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 30, 2024 9:07:06 GMT -8
Allan,
Thanks as always for the ongoing support.👊
Ditto on the meet up.👍
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 29, 2024 5:56:57 GMT -8
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 28, 2024 6:14:08 GMT -8
Hi Greg, I most certainly could be wrong but to my eye it looks like the interior of your trailer is Ash. The grain in Birch is a bit finer and not as open so it stains more evenly. Unfortunately Ash ply is not available any more because of the ash borer beetle. Oak has a very similar grain to Ash and can be used as a substitute but it can be quite dark depending on the species. Peter Peter makes a good point about the paneling. Red oak or white oak offers a good match for the grain in ash paneling. I don't remember which one tho. Do a search on red or white oak panels in the search bar on VTT and see what comes up. I would also call around to lumber yards to find the paneling. It's a little more, but the quality could be better. Somewhere on our site is a thread about paneling sources. I think it focuses on birch, but if they have birch, they problaby have one of the oaks I previously mentioned. Also, in regards to the unusual angle iron on the sides, It could act like a catch for rain water dripping down along the sides and then holding it under the skirt board that runs under the sides of the trailer. That could accelerate wood root. That's just a guess. If you can slide a piece of paper down between the skin and the back side of that angle iron, I would expect water to get in. You are in California and some famous old boy band wrote a song about how much it rains in California. That helps. Your trailer is stored in doors, so it's protected, but still I would be curious as to what you would find once the skins were removed as Vikx suggested. Going underneath and sticking an ice pick or an awl into the wood that's covered by the angle iron might tell you the condition of the wood or just wait until you get to the point of pulling the skins. I once had a Scotsman that had angle iron added on the front at the bottom of the front wall, and the water had cascaded down the front from above traveling under the angle iron and then rotted the wood severely underneath. That angle iron had been added for wall support by some PO, but it made things worse by feeding the rot. I tried looking for the thread, but I can't find it. It had photos in it. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 28, 2024 6:09:06 GMT -8
Hi Jim, I ordered mine from vintagetrailergaskets.com/ Do a search on "Screen" when on the home page. They also sell gaskets and seals. Click on the link on the home page for "Vintage Trailer Gaskets" to find the glass seal and the back frame gaskets. It's a good idea to screw the screen frame to a piece of scrap plywood before you mount the screening. It keeps it in one place when you are working on it. You will need to first flip the back frame over and then screw the back frame through the original mounting holes around the perimeter. I would but at least one screw in each side. Rod
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