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Post by Teachndad on Oct 19, 2019 7:46:36 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I was lucky enough at a recent vintage trailer rally in Malibu, California to view the interior and exterior of what I think is a 1936 Aerocar trailer. It was sitting on a bluff overlooking the ocean. I can’t tell how long it had been there, but the years have taken their toll. It’s a bit derelict now. The owners of the RV park are LONG TIME residents of Malibu who bought up a lot of land many decades ago. They are looking for someone to restore the trailer. I took two videos with my phone. One is vertical and the other was taken horizontal. The one taken vertical has better audio, but the perspective is limited. If you have time, I recommend you watch each 3 minute video. Video 1 (horizontal) www.youtube.com/watch?v=Quwy0TuiX5AVideo 2 (vertical) www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-OX5HqcQxUI will create an album of pictures and share those later when I have some time. My Hehr windows are calling me. The suspension on this trailer is really fascinating and unique... After the videos were taken, we did a little more exploring and found water tanks that could be pressurized with air for a shower. One was located to the right side of the sink in a cabinet by the rear door. The fender skirts which had been removed were leaning against the sink cabinet in the galley. I mistakenly suggested in the video that it was a round table. The square “access door” in the floor in the galley is probably removable and we theorized has a shower pan below. When you look underneath the trailer there are 2” diameter drain pipes. Look above the “access door” in the ceiling and surrounding the skylight you can see a nickle plated square “rack” with rounded corners - Most likely for attaching a shower curtain. This trailer is designed to be mated with the Pierce Arrow tow vehicle I posted about a few years ago. That thread with images is here vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/9180/1935-pierce-arrow-convertible-vehicle. It is not in concourse condition, but original running condition. Below is a picture not seen before. It shows the Pierce Arrow with the owner in the driver's seat. It was driven away shortly after I took the picture. Pierce Arrow with driver by
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 19, 2019 6:15:10 GMT -8
Thank you Rude runner for the clarification. That reminds me. Just prior to priming the frame take a rag and wipe the frame with acetone to remove any oils or particles. You will need to wear thick chemical gloves because the acetone cools heavily as it evaporates. I went through two pairs of those gloves from Harbor Freight. That respirator is a must during this process as well.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 18, 2019 22:00:27 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
Take my comment below from a person with little experience compared to others on this forum.
When I removed the rust on my Westerner frame, I used a wire cup as well as a wire wheel and some flap disks. You need to be careful around the welds with a flap disk as it can remove welding material.
I didn't know any better so when I had the rust removed from the frame, I sprayed it with regular rattle can grey primer. I have learned from a veteran restorer that it's best to use epoxy primer which you can find in spray can. The epoxy primer is supposed to prevent the rust from coming back up through the primer. I have seen some sporadic and tiny areas of rust come back up through the primer on my frame, but it was so little. I have top coated the primer now and I can't see rust, but I am in a dry arid area. Watch out for flash rust depending on your humidity.
I was just watching a video on this and the guy said to not touch the bare metal with your bare hands after removing the rust. Apparently in his opinion, the areas where you touch with your bare skin can contribute to rusting later in that same spot. Vinyl gloves were recommended.
As stated, a respirator and a clear face shield are a must for working with grinder wheels. Long sleeve shirts are a good idea as well.
Good luck.
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 18, 2019 20:36:15 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Thank you for the responses. I started with my Honda Ridgeline. I spent a paltry $9 on a Curt 7 blade circuit tester model 58270 form Amazon. It looks like this: It worked like a charm. Once inserted into the rear 7 pin receptacle, the light for the marker lights failed to light. Some research on the web yielded a third fuse box on the first generation Honda Ridgelines under the hood on the driver's side. I didn't realize it was there before. That research also showed which fuse - a 20 amp mini fuse found in the number 7 slot. I swapped it out with a new one and the circuit tester showed a complete circuit. However, could there be a problem elsewhere that's causing the blown fuse? Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 12, 2019 22:23:27 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Thanks Jukebox. How did you pull the trailer off with the tongue forward? Also, I couldn't find this thread a week ago when I wanted to post. It was created by NCCamper on bracing walls during a retreival. I am including this for anyone searching out threads about trailer retrieval. cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 12, 2019 22:14:42 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
Took my Rod and Reel out to a rally this weekend. My R and R has been sitting since May and all lights worked at that time as I had to drive 3 hours at night.
Jump to this weekend and I did the pre - tow walk around lights test and find that the left and right signals work as well as the hazards and brake, but the tail lights and running lights are dead. I was traveling during the day, so I was fine, but I need to fix this issue.
Anyone got any ideas? Headlights on my TV - 2012 Honda Ridgeline activate when the headlights are activated and the truck tail lights activate, but not on the trailer. Wires all attached in a junction box under the trailer. All lights have been working normally for about two years since I bought the trailer.
Thanks,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 4, 2019 15:50:17 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Since this is turning into a valuable thread, I thought I would ask these questions: To Jukebox or anyone else, are you winching the trailer backwards on to the trailer or pulling it on from the tongue so the tongue is closest to the front of the flatbed trailer? The next question is if you pull it up on the trailer with the tongue forward, then how do you pull it off? One could assume, you could just accelerate suddenly and hope that it falls off the back like dishes on a table cloth, but somehow... I don't think that would work too well. Thanks, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 2, 2019 21:32:37 GMT -8
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 29, 2019 21:15:29 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
As a witness to Dan's efforts with this awning, it came off really looking very nice. I was standing under it in the 85 degree sun that day and it made a difference in making enough shade. You would never know it was cheap because it didn't look cheap.
I recommend it.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 29, 2019 21:09:51 GMT -8
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 29, 2019 21:07:07 GMT -8
Would need photos to give good advice... If it has leaf spring suspension it’s possible one side is more compressed than the other and the compressed side is sitting lower or a flat tire? That would be about the best case scenario. Hi Bill and welcome! I agree with Allan(got the name right this time! ) If a lot was stored on one side while it sat, the springs could be compressed on that side causing a listing. If one of the corners is sagging and the rest isn't maybe it's a frame issue. But like everyone has said, we need some pix and then these talented folks here can help you out. Mercuries in 1957 were carbon copies of Westerners. I look forward to your pix. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 29, 2019 20:57:58 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I agree with Larry, however, I enlarged the photos on Flickr and it looks like that hasp for the door is relatively new. It's not even looking the least bit old -its still shiney. I wonder if it's being "cared for" as a shed. If it was completely derilect, I would be picking the bones too. Someone used Henry's to seal up the windows and that rear left corner up high. Probably too little too late. If that door was open when you found it, then I would expect critters. The lower streetside front corner has a rip in the skin at the bottom. another opening for rodents. I agree - factory built. Interesting skins. What a pitty. It was probably a cute little trailer in its day. Alaska winters and no wheels to sit on. Was there any one living near by? I see more junk to the side in one of the pictures. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 28, 2019 6:49:10 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
While I detest Photo Buckets tactics. I do still pay them $2.41 a month. It was an offer they gave me a few years ago. The only reason I pay it is to have access to my photos still and I can move around my pix without bogging down my computer. There is an extension you can download that allows you to see the Phony Bucket photos in the forum.
It's too much work to move 600 photos and they are inextricably linked to posts on VTT and RYT. But I pay the small fee with resentment.
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 28, 2019 6:36:01 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Nice to see such nice experiences of camping like the views: Very Pretty. Thanks for the view, NC. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Sept 28, 2019 6:26:19 GMT -8
Hi John,
Welcome!
Wow! That interior looks really nice. Congrats!
Your ceiling looks really nice. Very little visible water damage.
Very nice layout.
Thanks for sharing your new found prize.
Rod
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