charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 9, 2018 12:10:27 GMT -8
I understand that trailer lights are grounded through the base & attachment screws touching the aluminum skin, but in the interest of a more reliable ground, I’ve run ground wires for each of my lights on the outside of the camper. But on the VTS LED Teardrop lights, I’m not real sure where to connect a ground wire without damaging the circuit board. Ant thoughts? I hope that these photos work...if not I’ll fix them tomorrow. Thanks! Edit: pictures didn’t work. I can’t get the correct URL on this device. I’ll fix ‘em tomorrow. Save
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 6, 2018 10:02:32 GMT -8
nccamper's post says that he buffed it off with 0000 steel wool.
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 6, 2018 4:19:22 GMT -8
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 28, 2018 7:12:33 GMT -8
What is a "backer" in this context? A board or piece of wood large enough & solid enough to fasten the fixtures to. Usually the "backer" would be fastened behind the paneling. Often a strategically located piece of framing can serve the purpose of the backer. Or at least that's my definition of a backer.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 27, 2018 14:34:51 GMT -8
Just my opinion, but your idea for how you think it should work sounds like a great idea! Just find a spring loaded switch of sorts that’s rated to handle the voltage & current and make it happen! Unless the original way had something unique or interesting about it, I wouldn’t be too concerned with whether or not you followed the original design.
And welcome to the forums!
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 23, 2018 16:22:31 GMT -8
I guess technically I should have said “tack” weld rather than spot weld, but you get the picture. Awesome find on the replacement part though!
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 23, 2018 3:36:55 GMT -8
Wow, I didn’t realize that part had a replacement available! I think that I’d spot weld that nut onto the bolt though or at least use a locknut.
But I would have thought that by ‘64 the hitch would have accepted a safety pin. I think that my two Compacts (‘61 & ‘64) have this same type of hitch, and they both accept a safety pin. I’ll have to compare my hitches to your old one.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 21, 2018 4:50:51 GMT -8
If you did it like I described (without the curbing and attached the paneling on the inside without it overlapping the side walls), the paneling wouldn't be running all the way across the camper and tying the everything together as a structural element. Is that the concept here? YES!!! It really is awesome to see someone come to understand this concept. I'm sorry if that sounded a bit over enthusiastic, but this is a concept that SO many people just do not understand, and they'll argue til they're blue in the face that there's nothing wrong with replacing those panels from the inside. Unfortunately repairing from the inside is what you see in about 95% of the posts on Facebook. I'll admit that when I bought my first vintage canned ham, my wife and I both were prepared to gut & repair/fix from the inside. After all, that's how everyone was doing it so it had to be right. But in my research I ran into mobiltec's YouTube videos condemning the "inside" approach and showing the right way to rebuild these campers. After that I spent nearly a full year studying these things before arriving at the conclusion that you just came to (obviously you're much sharper than I am!). But if I did anything right at all it was NOT removing a single screw from my camper until I worked that all out.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 21, 2018 4:28:45 GMT -8
I've been far enough north to cross the Big Mac once. It's quite an impressive bridge. The water in those falls looks a lot like the tannic acid stained waters for Blackwater Falls here in WV: Blackwater Falls Link
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 13, 2018 12:27:03 GMT -8
Your best starting place might be Wilsonart with their Retro series, about the best selection I found.
And from I've seen, anyone else that's selling retro Formica is basically reselling Wilsonart. Save
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 13, 2018 10:12:01 GMT -8
Thanks all! I'll try to screw it up.
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 12, 2018 13:45:15 GMT -8
In our ‘61 Compact we’re replacing the stove/oven with a 2 burner stovetop, and I’ve built a new longer countertop using 3/4” plywood with Formica laminated to it that will extend through where the stove used to be. I apparently didn’t pay much attention to how the old countertop was fastened...how should I fasten it to the cabinet carcass? Use screws up through the cabinet frame up into the bottom of the plywood? Or is there a better way? Thanks!
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 12, 2018 13:32:53 GMT -8
The “V” says that it was built in Goshen, IN. Ross will likely get to your post eventually and tell the year it was manufactured.
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 12, 2018 3:45:21 GMT -8
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 11, 2018 18:09:33 GMT -8
I can’t say that I know all of the title laws for WV, but apparently I know enough. I’ve titled two that were purchased in-state that did not have a title, and I’ve titled one that came from a state that did not require it to be titled. I have documented all of the forms that are necessary, and the process has not failed me yet.
In WV the key seems to be proving the seller’s ownership and right to sell. Also I’ve managed to find the absolute BEST DMV office in the universe. This office turns the image of the DMV upside down.
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