charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 28, 2019 18:43:35 GMT -8
You need to clean the coupler. It's not sliding forward far enough to reveal the hole. I had the exact same issue with my '64 Compact. Shoot some lube up into it, work it as far in both directions as you can get it to move, rinse & repeat until you see the hole.
It's SCARY how many people are pulling these campers with this exact type of coupler using zip ties to hold the latch shut. And what's even scarier is that the reason they don't see the hole, is because the coupler is not fully latching to begin with.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Nov 7, 2018 5:29:03 GMT -8
I think the code tells us what should be done when upgrading. It is written for everyone's safety. Bingo! I approach electrical from the standpoint of "if the NFPA felt that it was important enough to write it in the code, then it's a pretty good idea to follow it". The NEC changes for reasons, and those are to save peoples' lives and prevent fires.
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 25, 2018 10:07:50 GMT -8
Update: NEC 2017 section 551 deals with Recreational Vehicles and Recreational Vehicle Parks. Section 551.44(C) Dead-Front Type (referring to the "panelboard" as the code calls it)...states "A main disconnecting means shall be provided where fuses are used or where more than two circuit breakers are employed. A main overcurrent protective device not exceeding the power-supply assembly rating shall be provided where more than two branch circuits are employed".
Unless I'm misinterpreting that (feel free to tell me so!), there are instances where a main breaker might be required regardless of whether it protects the cord connecting the camper to the pedestal or not. Most of us here can likely make do with 2 branch circuits, but only one more isn't all that inconceivable. I don't see anything the prohibits a main breaker, so I plan to incorporate one from the get-go. I just need to verify that a line breaker can meet the definition of a "main disconnecting means" and a "main overcurrent protection device".
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 25, 2018 9:51:23 GMT -8
I'd use as heavy of a wire as you can fit into that buss bar. Actually after doing some reading in the National Electrical Code, part C of "551.56 Bonding of Non-Current-Carrying Metal Parts" specifically states that the Equipment Grounding Conductor "shall be 8 AWG copper minimum". Section 551 deals with "Recreational Vehicles and Recreational Vehicle Parks". The only exception that I could find that negates the need for the wire is if the distribution panel is directly fastened to the metal frame/chassis with metal fasteners (essentially bonding the panel to the chassis). FYI I found that the entire National Electric Code is available for reading for free. You just have to signup for a free account at www.nfpa.org.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 24, 2018 6:19:12 GMT -8
All the 12VDC black wires are on the same bus. Those are just the colors I bought. Just to be clear, the 12VDC ground wire coming out of the converter is WHITE, so it should be the only white wire on the 12VDC ground buss. If you connected the 12VDC black wire coming out of the converter to the 12VDC ground buss that's outside of the converter, then you're pumping +12VDC into your entire ground system. One more point that might help, there is also a ground from the converter to the 12VDC ground bus (which is grounded to the frame). I wasn't sure if this suffices to ground the 120VAC. This is the wire that I mention above. Is it white or black? On the diagram above, you can see a green ground from shore power to a bus ("AC Neutral to Conv"...) In the diagram above, I think that the "AC Neutral to Conv" is pointing to the white wire that's connected to the bottom buss bar. This is a neutral and is not a ground. ...then a green ground from the bus to the converter ("AC Ground to Conv"), then black ground ("To Batt Neg"). Does this adequately ground 120VAC? In my opinion (I still haven't heard back from my friend), to ground the 120VAC to the chassis I'd run a bare or green wire from the top horizontal buss bar to the chassis. I'd use as heavy of a wire as you can fit into that buss bar. From the converter I would connect the 12VDC ground (white wire in the diagram) to the external 12VDC ground buss bar (with the rest of your black ground wires) (which would also be bonded to the chassis). Edit: Please note that although I feel that I have a reasonably good understanding of AC & DC electricity, I am not an electrician.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 24, 2018 5:19:21 GMT -8
Here's a troubleshooting manual for your converter: www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/PD4045-TROUBLESHOOTING.pdfAnd an installation/operating guide: www.progressivedyn.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/110145-English-Only.pdfAre you sure that you connected the 120VAC ground (green wire) to the 12VDC ground buss bar (likely all white wires)? What color are the Romex wires that are producing the spark? To create a spark, those wires have to have a voltage differential AND something on that circuit drawing current. Oh, and you don't wire 120V outlets/fixtures/etc in series...they're all wired in parallel. Black (hot) to black, white (neutral) to white, and green or bare (ground) to green or bare. Maybe this is just a misunderstanding of terms, but I wanted to clarify that. I have more I'd like to add regarding using the buss bar to bond the 120VAC ground to the 12VDC ground, but I'm waiting for a response from an electrician friend of mine before I post it publicly. For now suffice it to say that I suspect that's not causing your problem, although I could be wrong.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 15, 2018 12:10:57 GMT -8
I put a few strips of aluminum HVAC tape on the back side of the rigid foam (the side that will lay against the plywood panel), flipped the foam over and made several slices about an inch or two apart from one edge to the other (similar to "curfing" a board so that it will bend). Don't cut through the tape on the other side though. Break the rigid foam at the slices (the tape on the back side will hold it all together).
The slices will allow it to bend around the curves.
I hope that explains it well enough. I can try to find some pictures if you'd like.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 12, 2018 11:29:38 GMT -8
After you hitch up, crank trailer's tongue jack down until it lifts the bumper of the tow vehicle. If it's not properly hitched, it should come uncoupled.
I always thought of crossing the chains as mandated by law? Or maybe it's just common sense.
I'm glad to hear that your situation ended well!
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 9, 2018 4:40:17 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies everyone!
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 6, 2018 4:00:37 GMT -8
My ‘61 Shasta Compact has the typical 3/4” framing. I used two layers of 3/8” plywood for my curbing/edge boards with each layer fastened with crown staples. They feel solid, but I’m sure that the crown staples won’t hold up to the stresses of towing. What other fastener should I use on the curbing? 1-1/2” ring shank nails? Screws? Something else?
Thanks!
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 14, 2018 11:12:36 GMT -8
What light switches are you guys using? I think that I'm going to try a wireless remote control option using this (until I get around to making my own), but you're pretty much stuck with 12V LED lights with this option: Wireless LED Controller
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 14, 2018 7:40:32 GMT -8
I really doesn't matter what most people use. Only you can answer what you will need. If you'll always camp where 110 is available, or if you can live without electricity when you do not have 110 available, then you don't need 12VDC.
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 12, 2018 11:07:46 GMT -8
Kaffi, Here's a pic of a "flat blade connector" that you just crimp onto your wire, and you can slide the connector over the tabs on the back side of the USB outlet (not my photo): You just have to find the right size that's big enough to slide onto the blades on the back of the USB charger and still be small enough to accommodate your wire size. I hope that helps!
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 11, 2018 17:01:07 GMT -8
Find yourself some "flat blade connectors" that will slip over the flat pieces. Crimp the flat blade connectors to your wire, and slip the connector over the terminals on the back of that USB outlet. One terminal is +12VDC and the other is ground. If they aren't marked, I'm not sure off the top of my head how to tell you to figure out which one is which.
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Post by charliemyers on Sept 11, 2018 7:17:40 GMT -8
Awesome RinTin! I think there's a Fastenal within an hour of here, and I'm headed in that direction this evening. Maybe I'll slip in to see if they might have some on hand. Thanks!
I had actually thought about drilling that hole out and cutting a more common thread size, but at $15 each for the lights I didn't want to chance it.
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