charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 30, 2018 5:56:54 GMT -8
My definition of "stubborn" means that I've already tried & failed with the "hammer the screwdriver" technique as well as trying to back the screw out using an impact driver that has a hammering type action.
Vampliers are my first choice for stubborn screws. Always.
I've tried the "cut a slot with a Dremel" hack before, but no matter how thin of a cutting wheel I used, it never seemed to leave enough meat to twist the screw out without torquing off the remainder of the screw head.
If you can reach the back side of the screw (where the threads protrude the other side) then nothing beats a good set of Vice Grips. Clamp the threads and screw it "in" (it will go "out" the other side). Ditto if the screw head is backed out far enough to get a grip on it with Vice Grips.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 26, 2018 6:46:17 GMT -8
@2bits I had the exact same thought quite some time ago, but then I imagined the sequence of the rebuild in my head until I eventually arrived at RinTin's revelation.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 25, 2018 11:48:12 GMT -8
If I understand your question correctly....I'm using a single 1x4 to cover each seam between the panels. Half of the 1x4 on one panel, half on the other panel. If you rip the boards and use a rafter on either side of the seam, then if you nail up a trim strip to cover that seam on the inside of the camper, the nails could slip up between the two rafters and not have anything to keep it secure.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 18, 2018 4:43:38 GMT -8
ChiTownScotty Where were the pictures of the Milky Way taken? And do you mind sharing the exposure settings if you have that? Thanks!
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 13, 2018 10:47:19 GMT -8
Those are clutch head screws. Most any automotive store should have them. Amazon should have them. I know that Vintage Trailer Supply sells them in assorted sizes.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 8, 2018 3:51:59 GMT -8
kaffi311 Do you mind sharing what trim you purchased? I need to order some soon for a new counter top & trimming the sink hole just like yours.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 3, 2018 4:16:42 GMT -8
mel Thanks mel! I did skim through your Compact rebuild once, but I guess I missed the sink photos somehow. So the holes in the corners of my sink were apparently original (I think that I see the same sort of holes on you sink?), but on mine a previous owner used those holes to screw it down to the counter top as a drop in sink. So there were no screws used to compress the putty tape between the counter top & sink? vikx Yes if I buy a new sink, it’ll be a drop in. Obviously a previous owner also preferred a drop in! I suspect that they had leakage problems at some point and solved it by mounting it the way it is now. But if I can get by with reusing this one, I will.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 2, 2018 7:18:33 GMT -8
Thanks for the replies! I too recently bought the $10 Harbor Freight gravity fed gun, but not necessarily specifically for painting the camper. I figured for that price I’d find some use for it somewhere. But if it’ll do the job, I’m not opposed to using it. nccamper Yep, I’ve read through those posts! That’s mostly what has given me the confidence to decide on spraying the paint on with a pneumatic air gun. I noted that you used a different gun for the primer than for the paint, but I’m not sure that I found why you did that or what primer/paint attributes were used to decide which gun was chosen for each. I’ll do a little more research and maybe I can ask my questions a little more intelligently and more specifically.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jul 2, 2018 7:08:13 GMT -8
I searched but didn’t find anything immediately obvious, but can someone briefly explain what’s involved with installing an under mount sink? Or feel free to be very detailed.
I think that our ‘61 Compact has the original sink (see pic below), but it appears that the counter top was rebuilt with the sink mounted on top (or maybe it’s not the original sink?). I’d like to get started rebuilding the counter top soon, but I want to either under mount the old sink or buy a replacement drop in. The counter top & sink in our ‘64 Compact appears to be original, but it’s not been taken apart yet so it’s a bit difficult to see how it was put together.
Much appreciated!
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 30, 2018 18:38:13 GMT -8
I’m not near ready to paint my camper yet, but I’m making plans. I haven’t selected my paint yet but it’ll likely be something oil based if I can find it somewhere that can tint it. I have decided that I would like to try my hand at spraying it on with a pneumatic paint gun. So about the paint gun, I don’t have one. Should I wait until I select the paint before I choose a paint gun? If so, what qualities in the paint do I need to consider when shopping for a paint gun?
Also I’ve seen that often people use a different gun for the primer than for the paint. Again, what qualties of the paint & primer determine the gun that should be used to spray it?
I hope this makes sense! And I hope that the answers are pretty straight forward.
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 29, 2018 7:35:07 GMT -8
Unless I misunderstand your point, the Trailer Life Tow Guide 2014 in this forum's stickie has a definition for "Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR): The total allowable weight of the tow vehicle, the trailer, the cargo in each, hitch hardware, fluids, and occupants". I'm pretty sure that I've found that terminology in just about every owner's manual of any of my vehicles I've ever consider using to tow something. SaveGCVWR is the addition of the GVWR and the trailer tow rating. For the Tacoma it is rated at an incredible 11,000 lbs which I would be terrified to try. But the maximum that you can tow is whichever of all of those ratings is exceeded first. I still haven't figured all of that out yet which is why I tow a Compact with a 3500HD and don't worry about all that. Save
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 29, 2018 7:02:23 GMT -8
There usually is not a rating for the combined vehicle and trailer weights. Unless I misunderstand your point, the Trailer Life Tow Guide 2014 in this forum's stickie has a definition for "Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR): The total allowable weight of the tow vehicle, the trailer, the cargo in each, hitch hardware, fluids, and occupants". I'm pretty sure that I've found that terminology in just about every owner's manual of any of my vehicles I've ever consider using to tow something. Save
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 26, 2018 6:40:14 GMT -8
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 24, 2018 3:58:51 GMT -8
Terminology can be critical in some cases, although in this case it’s probably not much worse than an inconvenience. It looks to me like everyone knows what a wire nut is. Even a wire nut with wings is still a wire nut. And we’ve proven that “wing nut” can be ambiguous. Probably would be prudent to use “wire nut” when referring to joining wires together and “wing nut” when referring to the nut that threads onto a bolt.
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 24, 2018 3:50:36 GMT -8
What kudzu is saying is that if the 12 gauge wire has a 20 amp (or lower) fuse or breaker protecting it, then you’re fine. If not then you need to install or replace the existing fuse or breaker with one that’s 20 amp or less. The different size wires are fine as long as they are being protected by an appropriate size fuse or breaker.
If you do not understand this, then you really should ask an electrician to have a look at your situation.
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