charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 12, 2018 13:45:15 GMT -8
In our ‘61 Compact we’re replacing the stove/oven with a 2 burner stovetop, and I’ve built a new longer countertop using 3/4” plywood with Formica laminated to it that will extend through where the stove used to be. I apparently didn’t pay much attention to how the old countertop was fastened...how should I fasten it to the cabinet carcass? Use screws up through the cabinet frame up into the bottom of the plywood? Or is there a better way? Thanks!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 12, 2018 17:01:31 GMT -8
I might be wrong about my memory but in my '63 Compact I was worried about screws marking a dent in the polyurethane top so I just glued it to the uprights. As long as your height is right on it will hold tight
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mel
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Post by mel on Aug 13, 2018 4:05:56 GMT -8
I think screwing upwards from the bottom is a good way to go  My original was put together is some weird way so I doubt how it was originally done could even apply to your new counters |
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Aug 13, 2018 4:12:11 GMT -8
Screws from the bottom are just fine, of course make sure they are not too long. The previous comment on them bulging the top might be something to consider if the screws are too close to the total thickness. Generally, if you have 1-12" of total material don't use anything longer than 1-1/4".
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datac
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Post by datac on Aug 13, 2018 9:43:56 GMT -8
Check your screw length and predrill. You'll be fine.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Aug 13, 2018 10:12:01 GMT -8
Thanks all! I'll try to screw it up.  |
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carvelloafer
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Post by carvelloafer on Oct 20, 2018 7:06:12 GMT -8
Also, in my opinion I would avoid drywall screws altogether anywhere in a trailer. They are a lot more prone to snapping under stress. Of course a lot of Chinese import screws are as bad or worse so it is worth paying for good quality construction screws.
I know this is a late comment, but worth making.
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Post by danrhodes on Oct 20, 2018 13:58:56 GMT -8
I redid our back yard with 1x10 garden beds. About half the expensive big box deck screws snapped as the wood dried and warped. Very disappointing and zero contact information to reach the company Also, in my opinion I would avoid drywall screws altogether anywhere in a trailer. They are a lot more prone to snapping under stress. Of course a lot of Chinese import screws are as bad or worse so it is worth paying for good quality construction screws. I know this is a late comment, but worth making. |
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Oct 21, 2018 5:11:33 GMT -8
I agree on staying away from drywall screws. They have coarse enough threads to pull themselves deeper into the wood than you want, especially if you drill pilot holes. Try pan heads a qtr inch shorter than combined thickness of top and carcass.
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datac
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Post by datac on Oct 22, 2018 9:06:26 GMT -8
There are some gorgeous screws available out there now. Because I'm a bit OCD on engineering stuff I bought a few varieties and tested prior to reinstalling my joists, floor, etc.- found some Spax screws that cleanly countersink themselves and require no predrilling. I tried to split lumber with them, tested the hold strength vs. predrilled regular screws, etc., and they did a great job, absolutely the equal of traditionally countersunk and predrilled construction screws. Well worth the extra money. There's a truss head variant I'm using for my cabinet and countertop installation. |
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tehachapibob
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Post by tehachapibob on Oct 22, 2018 11:11:53 GMT -8
Are you going withe stainless Spax screws?
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datac
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Post by datac on Oct 22, 2018 13:28:39 GMT -8
No, I used the regular exterior Spax screws. Considering that none of the original bolts and giant twisty nails in those locations had any signs of corrosion, I figured that was safe.
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