kc
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Post by kc on Aug 13, 2015 6:53:49 GMT -8
As much room as you think you have to bring and store stuff with a camper, it seems there is always a bit more you would like to bring along. Still trying to resolve the spare tire issue, as the extra weight on the rear is not good I know. But the tongue on a 59 Shasta doesn't have much room, can;t fit it inside and doesn't go in the tow vehicle easily and smells like rubber. But that's beside the point. We want to bring 4 bikes with us, and would like to avoid the roof rack. I have seen these strange extension things and then adding a hitch mount bike rack to this. Wondering if any of you have used one, or have solutions for bringing bikes along with? www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Receiver-Adapter-Extender-Extension/dp/B000P6CJ9O
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kc
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Post by kc on Aug 13, 2015 6:30:35 GMT -8
We have a 59 Shasta, and had names that didn't stick as well. Example, "Spooner" as the only item we found in the ol girl was a spoon. Some others that just seemed forced. Then last year she got hit by a hail storm, and it was easy after that.
"Hail Mary"
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kc
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Post by kc on Jul 6, 2015 12:15:28 GMT -8
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kc
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Post by kc on May 23, 2015 18:35:57 GMT -8
Stupid Question #82....So I bought a new battery Exide 24MDCST. Towing system electrical will be run off the tow vehicle. This will be used to run our fan and water pump when needed primarily when we are not at a full service campground. Connected to a converter.
Don't see anywhere what wire gauge to use for the battery to the converter. It's only a whopping 6 feet or so. 10 Gauge? It's just whenever I see wire connected to a battery, they are much larger....worried I am not doing the right thing.
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kc
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Post by kc on Apr 22, 2015 9:01:54 GMT -8
Wondering if any of you have pics of your door rebuilds? The bottom of my door is just wood, no aluminum on the bottom? Does not seem right? I took it off and rebuilt the wooden frame, putting it back together but also trying to imrpve if I can, as well as try to figure out the bottom door sill.
Does any one have closeup pictures of their Shasta doors? Especially the bottom, and or their rebuild process?
Thanks!
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 30, 2015 17:51:57 GMT -8
John - I see you on here and you always have intelligent replies with years of experience behind them. Most time I even listen to you! I spoke with a guy at Sherwin Williams Auto Paint today who suggested an epoxy primer, basically $220 gallon with hardener and reducer. Auto paint person at Painters Supply said it will not adhere and self etching is the only way to go. $150/gallon. But that would require another coat of primer. Now you say it will work and I can use he epoxy. There is also a Rustoleum latex Aluminum primer and a Rustoleum Professional Oil Based Aluminum Primer which they claim can be painted on bare metal and top coated with their product. Both are MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE than self etch or epoxy. And which one, if any, can be rolled/brushed....
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 30, 2015 13:16:59 GMT -8
Also, I hear self etching primer requires another primer coat over yop of it, otherwise the acid can come through the paint. True? Painters Supply says yes, Sherwin Williams said no. Argh!
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 30, 2015 12:29:15 GMT -8
So our trailer is stripped to bare aluminum. 1959 Shasta.
The body is beat to **** because of a recent hailstorm, and not going to bother reskinning. So I need a cheap effective and longish lasting paint job that looks good on a battered old girl. Not only that, I am in surburbia doing this on the side of my house. Spraying her here is not really an option and would have to take to a friends house to get her done and he will charge me something.
With that said, first step is primer. Self Etching primer. So many brands, SEM, Sherwin Williams, Ace Hardware, Rustoleum.
Must you spray on primer or can you Roll/brush? Seen that roller bit then brush after to smooth it out and the brush strokes disappear... Brand preferences out there? Coverage expected? Since it is only one coat, I had one lady tell me 200 sq ft per quart!? Pricing? I see everything from cheap $30/gallon to $300 gallon!
Thoughts out there? Maybe just prime it by spray and take her home and paint by roll/brush?
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 19:17:30 GMT -8
This week:
Buy tires/wheels. Buy water tank, PEX and fittings. Finish rebuilding curbside storage door. Shellac and install wood trim pieces. Buy 30A inlet Buy smoke/co2/explosive gas detector Figure out anti theft options & purchase Buy levelers
Next week: Rebuild main door.
1-3 weeks: Electrical - Buy battery (suggestions?), install inverter/converter, connect fan & lights.
3 weeks; Paint.
Much much more before main maiden voyage first week of June. Mt Rushmore here we come!
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kc
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 19:08:47 GMT -8
Tile is now done.
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kc
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1959 Shasta
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 19:00:01 GMT -8
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kc
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Posts: 107
Likes: 14
1959 Shasta
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 18:47:52 GMT -8
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kc
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Posts: 107
Likes: 14
1959 Shasta
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 18:38:41 GMT -8
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kc
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Posts: 107
Likes: 14
1959 Shasta
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 18:31:53 GMT -8
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kc
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Posts: 107
Likes: 14
1959 Shasta
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Post by kc on Mar 28, 2015 7:46:43 GMT -8
Is this the insulation that goes underneath the oven? If so, doesn;t a 1" thick raise it up too much where it is supposed to connect to the side support?
BTW AZSHASTANUT, you still want that floor heater?
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