roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 21, 2019 19:19:01 GMT -8
My new Chevy has a camera, as do all new vehicles I think by law now. It’s hard to get used to in my opinion. I much prefer a second person to guide me in, or creep in if alone. But I’m not a professional trailer backer guy like some of you. But, I’ve been thinking of getting one for the back of the trailer. Would be nice to know what’s back there on lane changes on freeways in strange cities ( when such travel can’t be avoided). Even with mirror extensions my 8’ wide is impossible to see directly behind. Anyone tried this?
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 25, 2019 19:19:50 GMT -8
Good stuff big I’ll. And nc is right. Replace at 5 years max. When I lost a wheel last year on my 62 on a trip I ended up getting the whole ball of wax new....axel, wheel and brakes, rim and tire and the cost really wasn’t that bed for the comfort of having every thing new. And if it would have been for one of my daughters I probably would have upgraded more. And one more thing Greg. When you change the rims, CHECK THE LUG NUTS soon after and regularly.
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 14, 2019 9:24:43 GMT -8
I’ve been real happy with the front awning / rock guard combo I made. I posted a pic of it in the “awnings “ section a few months ago. (Sorry i dont know how to make a link)
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roadtripper
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My new tv
Feb 13, 2019 10:46:42 GMT -8
via mobile
Post by roadtripper on Feb 13, 2019 10:46:42 GMT -8
I had a Silverado company truck for years. Was very nice. Got about 11 mpg. But it came with a company credit card. 😊
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 12, 2019 12:27:13 GMT -8
aslmx, Well it says Duramax on the engine and all the reviews refer to it as duramax, but I’m not sure it’s made in the same factory as big brother. Im still under 2k miles but so far really like it. Plenty of power to do what I bought it for, and it’s infinitely quieter than my old ram Cummins.
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 7, 2019 17:04:07 GMT -8
Thanks Bigbill, Does extending the tongue change the tongue weight ratio? After finally weighing my trailer after rebuild I’m at 3600 loaded for camping. I bought a tongue scale and found I’m at 18%. Too much. Mostly because I put in a nice solar system and have two golf cart batteries on the tongue. I’m in the process of moving them back behind the axel in a vented box. This puts me at just under 14%. Much better. I’m thinking extending the tongue is ok, but using an extended hitch not good. Does extending the tongue require new steel all the way to the frame, or just re doing the front? Have any pictures? Thanks.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 7, 2019 6:51:56 GMT -8
Thanks. I’ll mess around with those good ideas.
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 6, 2019 7:04:59 GMT -8
Thanks Viks for input. Trailer not that light and I agree on looks. The tailgate issue is a pain though. Also, twice I’ve bent the jack on steep paved gutters pulling out of parking lots. Not a rare problem I think from all the gouges you see in pavement. Maybe a scissor jack not attached but carried in the tool box?
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 5, 2019 20:05:58 GMT -8
Reguarding the tail gate and jack... On my old ram with the 6” drop no problem but with my new Colorado I’m using a straight hitch and the trailer is level, but tailgate won’t work. I’m thinking of trying a jack that swivels 90 degrees. I don’t want a long extension on the hitch because the tongue and hitch weight are better in close, and I don’t have trouble turning. Any one use one of these swivel type jacks?
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 20, 2019 16:57:43 GMT -8
And back on topic. Couple days ago camping a neighbor camper pulled in and wondered at first if we were retro or restored. Then he said by looking closer at body he could tell restored and was happy to see we were real. Was nice to hear.
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 20, 2019 16:03:22 GMT -8
NC, just tell her the extra 30k is to get you out of the house and it might fly.
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 18, 2019 7:39:50 GMT -8
NC... yes it’s called turbo charged. Not a lot of hp but great torque. Dan....mpg on one quick 100 mile run, empty and not towing was 33. In our little hill country town running around stop n go in the low 20 range I think and recent trip with 3600 lb trailer and bed full of stuff down around 13. Still better tow mpg than my ram w/ Cummins. And that was lots of slow curves and hills. Towing just eats fuel no matter what in my experience. But I never felt under powered. Those mpg numbers all by the on board computer readout. Also gives you trans temp., oil pressure, tire pressure, and a half dozen other things.
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 17, 2019 21:22:10 GMT -8
For years I said I’d never buy another new vehicle but recently decided I’m too old to worry about car problems every day of every trip. Anyway, long story short, just got a new Chevy Colorado with the 4 cylinder diesel. It’s awesome. It’s rated to tow 7600 Pounds and our trailer is 3600 loaded up to go....so the 50% rule is right on. This week was the maiden tow voyage and I’m real happy with it. Has a tow/haul mode which includes an exhaust brake and electronics to spread out the shift pattern of the 6 speed. Great for going down hills, which in my opinion is often worse than up hill. Worth a look for anyone thinking about a new pickup.
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Post by roadtripper on Jan 17, 2019 21:01:55 GMT -8
After several long multi-state trips this past year there was never a hint of a leak. Till yesterday. We took a 4 day trip up the north California coast and saw lots of rain with several hours of high speed windshield wiper variety on the way home. The very rear floor was damp. We originally rebuilt some rear floor but never re did the belly pan material there and I can see the problem area. Also, where the 1/2” black fiber remains much of it is soaked and falling apart now. my idea is to cut and remove the rest of the black board and what glass insulation remains and let it all dry good. Then not sure. The style is 1/2” board between the steel frame and wood 2x2 joists which of course is smashed flat. I have replaced most bolts and used 1/2” hard rubber washers to try and fill the void. Whole new sheets as original is almost impossible. I can flash over the areas that leak behind the wheels and paint(or not) the wood, or try and piece in panels of something between the metal framing members. I’m not overly worried about insulation, but it would be nice. Any one ever use small mud flaps to lessen the hit behind the wheels? Any ideas on a pan? Thanks.
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 28, 2018 21:35:17 GMT -8
Rod, you should be able to figure it out on paper. If you know the amp hour capacity of the battery and your daily amp use ( amps per hour times minutes or hours used per day for each item...lights, heater, pump etc) you’ll have your answer. Always nice to have a little to spare and to not take the battery down too far. And you can always plug into the car and start it up for a few minute charge. J. Tree is an awesome place. Thanks
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