nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 4, 2019 15:34:36 GMT -8
An issue with new trucks is the tailgate doesn't clear the hitch jack post. On our Toyota Tundra, I switched to a 6" drop down with a 12" extension so I could get the camper level while dealing with the tailgate issue. Without the extension I also would be denting the camper when making sharp turns. A clear issue towing old campers with new (mile high) trucks.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 4, 2019 16:44:06 GMT -8
The jack handle hitting the tail gate has always been a problem on every truck that I have owned since my 1960 Ford. and that takes us back a long way.  Unless the truck sat high enough to use a drop hitch. These trailers were designed to be pulled with an automobile. |
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 5, 2019 20:05:58 GMT -8
Reguarding the tail gate and jack...
On my old ram with the 6” drop no problem but with my new Colorado I’m using a straight hitch and the trailer is level, but tailgate won’t work. I’m thinking of trying a jack that swivels 90 degrees. I don’t want a long extension on the hitch because the tongue and hitch weight are better in close, and I don’t have trouble turning. Any one use one of these swivel type jacks?
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Post by bigbill on Feb 7, 2019 10:29:57 GMT -8
You could also extend the trailer tongue twelve inches which would make the jack clear the tailgate, plus make the trailer easier to back and give you more clearance without hitting the front of the trailer with the truck bumper. This also would give you a new modern, safe coupler. This is a fairly simple thing that any experienced welder could do for you. I plan on extending the tongue on my trailer three feet to allow me to haul our recumbent trikes between the trailer and the truck.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Feb 7, 2019 17:04:07 GMT -8
Thanks Bigbill,
Does extending the tongue change the tongue weight ratio? After finally weighing my trailer after rebuild I’m at 3600 loaded for camping. I bought a tongue scale and found I’m at 18%. Too much. Mostly because I put in a nice solar system and have two golf cart batteries on the tongue. I’m in the process of moving them back behind the axel in a vented box. This puts me at just under 14%. Much better. I’m thinking extending the tongue is ok, but using an extended hitch not good.
Does extending the tongue require new steel all the way to the frame, or just re doing the front? Have any pictures? Thanks.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 7, 2019 18:42:03 GMT -8
This depends on design and if frame is deteriorated. Since I am going out so far I will build a new sub frame from spring mount forward, it will have a cross member at the original coupler with a trailer ball for the original couple to fasten to then go forward from there to new coupler. This way if someone ever wanted to change it back it would be a simple. My extension will be some what complicated, much more than adding a foot, also because I also am going to be hauling more weight on the tongue area.
10 % is a minimum there is no maximum as long as you don't exceed your hitch capacity.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Feb 9, 2019 6:33:31 GMT -8
Thanks Bigbill, Does extending the tongue change the tongue weight ratio? Yes, but it should only increase by the weight of the material you add to extend the tongue. As long as you are not moving anything else in relationship to the axle location it shouldn't have any other change. |
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debranch
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Wee Camp
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71 Shasta Compact
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Post by debranch on Feb 9, 2019 14:26:56 GMT -8
On our Jeep we must have an extension to clear the spar tire regardless of the trailer being pulled. for each trailer to set level different height/drops are required.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 11, 2019 11:51:41 GMT -8
If we're talking about the tongue jacks that fold up parallel to the tongue, I like them and have had no problem with them. If you're concerned about appearance, paint it to match your tongue. Bills last sentence is a bit simplistic. Too much tongue weight starts to upset the balance of the tow vehicle and may require using a weight distribution system. If it requires a weight distribution hitch it has exceeded the capacity of the existing hitch or vehicle. If you added enough you could even exceed the tow rating of the vehicle and to go farther you could even exceed the weight rating of your tires. Hope that clears that up. |
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oakback
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Post by oakback on Feb 11, 2019 12:35:38 GMT -8
You're saying every vehicle utilizing a weight distribution hitch is over it's capacity? Or just in OP's case?
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Post by bigbill on Feb 12, 2019 13:05:23 GMT -8
You're saying every vehicle utilizing a weight distribution hitch is over it's capacity? Or just in OP's case? No Definitely not. A weight distribution hitch is designed to transfer part of the trailer tongue weight to the front wheels of the tow vehicle giving you a level, balanced setup. When towing a trailer with heavier tongue weights they result in a safer, more comfortable ride.
Above what we were talking about is tongue weight. All trailers should have 10% minimum weight on the hitch, there is no maximum percentage. BUT you NEVER should exceed the weight rating of the weakest part of any hitch setup. This includes the coupler, the ball, any extensions, drops, ect., plus the actual hitch on the vehicle. Next you should never exceed the tow rating of a vehicle and I believe you should stay about 50% of that rating for safe dependable towing over all types of terrain. That will be argued by many who say they tow to the max rating weight, but are they towing in flat country or over a 14,000 ft pass in the mountains. The greatest rule for your families safety is before doing anything stop and engage your brain, think about what,when, and where you will be towing. Will your setup stop in an emergency. Will it perform in a strong cross wind. Are you able to see in your mirrors to safely change lanes in traffic or if you have to back up. How will your brakes work on a steep down grade with lots of curves. To quote someone else, they worry more about towing downhill than up. A few years back I was towing my car trailer equipped with hydraulic surge brakes down a highway in North Carolina when I came to a sign that said 8% downgrade next eleven miles with sharp curves so I thought no problem and proceed on. I shifted the transmission to a lower gear and proceeded down, my tow vehicle had no problems but we started to smell hot brakes about 2/3 of the way down. I told my wife it had to be the trailer because I hadn't touch my brakes but a couple times, by the time we we got to where we could pull over and stop the trailer brakes were starting to fade, so we broke out the cooler and waited while they cooled down. The point I'm making is you don't always know what the road or weather conditions will be so you need to have a safe rig.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Feb 15, 2019 1:42:05 GMT -8
Thanks Bill, that's a much clearer explanation.
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Unless the truck sat high enough to use a drop hitch. These trailers were designed to be pulled with an automobile.
