Post by roadtripper on Jan 21, 2018 19:44:50 GMT -8
My 60 era heater is Safe-T-Vent by Basmor/Little made in northern CA way back. Very basic.. Vents outside. No electric, no fan, no thermostat, just on or off. Got all the propane back together and fired up the heater. You just turn knob to pilot, push in, light pilot, wait awhile till pilot stays lit, and turn to on. In a few minutes the trailer is warm and you turn it off. But I can't get it to work every time. At first it wouldn't go at all. I unhooked and blew out lines again with air. The one nearest the heater sounded like it hesitated and then blew out a bug or something, not sure really. After many tries got the pilot to light and finally the burner. It ran a couple minutes then died. A few more tries and it lit again till I turned it off 20 minutes later. This morning I got it to go again with out too much trouble. This evening was like the first time, ran a few then quit, and I can't get the pilot to stay after I let go of the knob no matter how long I hold it. Sometimes it even quits while the knob is pushed. I've adjusted the pilot flow screw all which ways and it seem like it should be at it's best where it is now, but still no go. I'll order a new regulator (mine looks original) but the 3 burner stove and oven run with a perfect looking blue flame and the new NorCold refer works great too. So, can I take this little box apart and clean/fix anything? Is it replaceable? I really want to use this heater.The little tube by the pilot...is that what you call the thermo coupler? Can that be a problem? There just aren't that many moving parts to this thing and other than what's in the silver box, the rest is rock solid.
Post by roadtripper on Jan 8, 2018 20:32:19 GMT -8
Great info by big bill as usual, who started this whole thing way back I think. Something from his original list....kinda depends on where you go. If you camp in Kansas or Florida it’s maybe no big deal. Want to tackle some of our twisty two lane 10,000’ passes in the Sierra it is a different ball game. And another thing I’m not sure was mentioned, going up is only 1/2 of it. Sometimes going down is the scary part. Make sure your transmission, brakes, and trailer brake set up are up to it.
Post by roadtripper on Jan 7, 2018 18:59:03 GMT -8
Different from mine but I had a hard time too on that item. Looks like the flange is stuck to the skins with hopefully only putty tape but maybe something nastier. You'll have to gently cut and pry it loose. Also, likely there might be a male / female type connection between the vents, with the exterior one stuck into the vent from the furnace and they are maybe rusted together. Or have you taken the furnace out of the interior yet? If there is a joint like that maybe you can worry some WD or something in the joint and give it some time. Welcome and good luck with the project.
Post by roadtripper on Jan 7, 2018 18:47:00 GMT -8
Per suggestion I eliminated everything but the bulb and battery. I took a couple of 14 ga wires with alligator clips on each end and went right to the battery. I clipped one on each post and touched the pos and ground points on the screw in bulb and got the same flicker. So the next thing will be to try a different brand of led screw in I guess. Since I have 4 different light fixtures that were originally 120, and all are behaving the same I think its unlikely that all the switches and all the grounds would be a problem. When I tested the voltage at the light socket the readouts were consistent and no fluctuations that I could tell. For example I'd get a reading of say something like 12.65 and I wouldn't move. But what do I know? I'm just a carpenter. Thanks again for all the input.
Thanks all. Vikx, good link there. I'll read it again and see what I can weed out, but obviously others have same problem. By "regular" I just meant the bulbs like the BA15s on VTS for example. Not sure how I could place the new socket in the vintage cone style fixture though. Charlie, The bulb brand is chichin. It does it with all bulbs, though it didn't start on one of the 4 till after a few days of messing around with them. The pulse is maybe 2 or 3 times a second but varies to a little faster to not at all for a few seconds. Enough to drive you crazy if you were dependent on them. (which we will be soon as we actually get to quit working and go camping). NC, I bypassed the converter in that I shut the 30a 120 side main off and the 15a 120 side breaker to the converter. Converter is brand new PD 4045. You'd think that wouldnt be the problem. Guess I could try 12v screw in incandescent bulbs. More amps to use but might work better. Thanks again everyone for the input.
Post by roadtripper on Jan 6, 2018 20:49:28 GMT -8
All my electric is finally done. (See a detail posted tonight in the Vintage Restorations section.) I have one little issue and I think its the bulbs, but I'll throw it out there. I kept 4 original interior fixtures that were 120 and changed to 12v. I put in new porcelain screw in receptacles for standard bulbs. I used the old switches which checked out fine I think. All wiring is new stranded 14 guage with hot and ground to everything. I got 12 volt led bulbs that screw in...about 5 watt I think. I don't think it happened immediately, but when you turn them on most of the time they flicker on and off, or high and low, real fast. I think its the bulbs. Here is what i've tried. Shore power only through the converter with the battery switched off. Battery power only with the 120 input off. Thought maybe 14 too small. Today I put some #10 stranded on to test and no different. Took my 12 v. light tester and clipped wire to ground and stuck pin to hot spot in socket and no flicker. Seems if it was something besides the bulb the test light should act funny. The battery checks out good with my multi meter at the battery and at the light fixture. The battery monitor and the guage on blue tooth show good. All show within about 2 1/100 of a volt. In this little town I can't just run down and get another bulb so before I go back to Amazon, anyone have any ideas? Is there a way to keep the nice old fixtures and convert to regular led bulbs...if it comes to that? Thanks, Mike
Post by roadtripper on Jan 6, 2018 20:24:00 GMT -8
Electric home base under the front dinette street side. Clock wise from bottom left. Red switch is to two 100 watt solar panels on roof. Small black square is blue tooth dongle for solar input read out. Blue box is Solar control panel with wires to shunt, battery and digital guage showing battery status, etc. Black box with yellow switch is positive side 50- a switch to battery. White box above is cover on two gang box with all tow wires attached inside. Narrow black strip with copper nut on each end is the shunt, needed to measure all input and output to battery. Large black box on right is PD 4045. Largest black wire to it is shore power cord. Gray cord with excess in coil goes to battery monitor guage. Black and red wires in center are to and from the 12v. system. I used a white ground wire to all 12 v. circuits and they are tied to a bare 10ga solid copper barely visible along the bottom and up right to a ground buss that is connected to frame and shunt with heavy copper wire. Main battery system will be two 6 volt 220 ah trojans. Currently for testing I'm using one 12 volt 105 ah deep cycle trojan from my other trailer. All seems to work great, but I have one little issue I'll bring up separate. First time for something like this and have untold hours in figuring it out. Huge help was a company out or Oregon called AMSolar. All they do is rv solar electric. Very good people I would recommend. c home base by P. Michael Grayum, on Flickr
Post by roadtripper on Jan 4, 2018 20:24:41 GMT -8
Some months ago I was talking on the phone with Steve of HV about metal for my roof. In the course of that conversation he said there has probably never been one square trailer on the road ever. If you are working as hard at it as it looks it should come out great. You have a nice clean foundation to work from there looks to me.
Post by roadtripper on Dec 13, 2017 12:53:18 GMT -8
I too use the biscuit too. Very good for aligning boards and is quick to use. Like bw said, its not great on adding strength, but in theory the glue in an edge joint is stronger that the wood. One nice side benefit i've noticed on edge gluing boards is the biscuits can cut down on the clamp time a little. Seems the glue immediately swells up the biscuit and gives it a little extra grab. If I'm trying to add some strength, I'll usually go with the dowelling jig. And I still almost always use the old fashioned dowel jig at the butt joints on cabinet face frames.
For sure check out the paint links. There has been lots of paint discussion here. I recently opted for the higher end do it yourself way and am very satisfied. Be prepared for lots of work in the prep to get a lasting job. On windows any glass shop can cut what you need, and replacement seals and weatherstrip for Hehr are available on line. Like NC said, glass thickness can be critical to fit the seals and frame.