roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 10, 2019 19:06:51 GMT -8
I’m changing the leaf springs on my 62. Pretty straight forward except for finding an exact match. My old springs measure 26 1/2 “ center to center. The hanger distance is about the same. The springs they gave me down at the rv shop are 25 3/4”, and when mounted they pull the shackle in towards the axel. Under load the shackle is down...90 degrees to frame. This seems wrong. Reading around it seem like about 45 degrees angled back under load is about right. Another site, etrailer, said rule of thumb is spring about 1/2” longer than pin to pin deminsion. I see 27” shackles available so that’s what I’m thinking to try. I have a fairly new dexter axel 3500 lbs rate. Springs rated at 1750 each seems proper. My trailer is max 3k totally loaded water and all.. usually a couple hundred less. Any reason to go heavier? What do you think on length and pound rating? There is a surprising amount of on line discussion on shackle angle out there, but mostly with guys building hot rods and rock crawlers. thanks for any input.
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Post by roadtripper on Aug 1, 2019 19:12:24 GMT -8
Many years ago I rebuilt some beveled glass with zink came windows that had been in my grandpas wood shop for ever. They had decades of overspray cabinet finish on them. I soaked the glass pieces in muriatic acid and water and they came out like new with no effort.
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Post by roadtripper on Jul 5, 2019 20:05:25 GMT -8
Depends on your use. If kinda light and you want to keep it simple get a portable like nc said. I’d say at least 80 watt. Also a true deep cycle battery of about 100ah. Trojan or similar good brand. I went with 200 watts of panels on the roof and 2 ea 6 volt golf cart batteries for 220ah. Plus all the stuff between....controller, monitor, panels, etc. I did all the work myself and materials were about 12 to 15 hundred. I love it. We can boondock for weeks no problem. It will run the battery side of my 3 way fridge breakfast to supper if the suns bright. And the experience figuring it out was enjoyable. My trailer is 17’ and pretty flat on top. Many here don’t have the space, or maybe don’t want to mess with the vintage that much. If you mostly plug in though, I’d go simple.
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Post by roadtripper on Jul 4, 2019 8:50:19 GMT -8
Thanks for the input.
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Post by roadtripper on Jul 4, 2019 6:09:36 GMT -8
Thanks. Axels are over spring a so I guess blocks wouldn’t work. On longer shackles, would it be both ends, or just the end that pivots. Welding required?. Seems new springs aren’t all that expensive if that by itself would work with just heavier duty—-or not worn out. Is re arching less costly. As far as tires, I can go from the 90 to 75 and gain an inch in wheel well, but it won’t help on axel too close to frame.
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Post by roadtripper on Jul 2, 2019 13:10:12 GMT -8
I just came up with a similar question so will jump in on this thread if ok. Last year put on new axel, wheels, brakes, rims, etc. due to the lost wheel episode. Well this weekend I had trailer on blocks and tires off to do some general clean up and maintenance on belly. I noticed top inside of wheel wells have been rubbing at times....a little shiny spot. Then I noticed, after lowering with tires back on that space between frame and axel is only about a strong inch and it too shows signs of occasional hitting. So, I’m guessing new better springs is the fix? Do I just measure spring length when off trailer and go with something rated higher than the 3k ( loaded) of the trailer)? Are there other options to gain height with the springs? Thanks.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on May 26, 2019 20:00:37 GMT -8
We have had 3A for decades. Always good. Last year when we lost a wheel on the trailer in Oregon the couple that had 3A in that area were amazing. They spent literally hours getting us back together and then followed us to our campsite to make sure all was ok. Every other car problem I’ve ever had where they were involved was very good too.
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Post by roadtripper on May 24, 2019 5:55:44 GMT -8
My original heater was left of sink and under fridge. I removed it to work on it and got a wave for a temp replacement. Like the wave so much it’s staying. I built a cabinet door to cover the space of the old heater, mounted the heater to the outside of the door, and with a short flex hose connected it to the existing gas line right inside. We only use the heat on chilly mornings, so I light the heater and open the door 90 degrees so it radiates past the cooking area and to the front dinette table. When done, the door latches closed and it’s out of the way. We sewed a dust cover with elastic corners to protect when not in use. And the extra space inside the old heater space makes a nice storage spot for my small travel tool box.
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Post by roadtripper on May 17, 2019 20:12:29 GMT -8
You might try your local gas / propane supply company or appliance repair shop.
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Post by roadtripper on May 16, 2019 16:42:20 GMT -8
Looks like a fun and practical camper. The old ones are cool and we love em, but getting the kids out camping is way more important. Have fun.
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Post by roadtripper on May 14, 2019 5:50:26 GMT -8
I assuming your talking about the framing, and not the face veneer ....birch, oak, whatever. Vick’s is right on the poplar being good. It’s easy to work with, stable (won’t twist much), fairly inexpensive and easy to get knot free. Depending on where you live, clear dry sugar pine is great, but costs more. More available is yellow pine dry #2 in 1x any width from 2” to 12”. Best to buy extra and just choose pieces between the knots. Most pieces will be short anyway.
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Post by roadtripper on May 11, 2019 16:16:34 GMT -8
One of the stickers on my traveleze by the door was the metallic type. I had to carefully sand away. I may have used some Goofoff too. Slow process but came away clean. My replacement decals were from the eBay guy too. They are holding up well.
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Post by roadtripper on May 1, 2019 15:41:11 GMT -8
In my experience, yes, put the table down while on the road. If the table doesn’t fall, the seat cushions will slide around. I put ours down to sleeping position, spread the cushions out, and put a small pillow between seat cushion and wall to snug everything up. Takes about one minute once you get the system down.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 25, 2019 18:41:19 GMT -8
Someone will have a picture, but you’ll have a fitting that adapts from your black iron pipe main line to flared fitting at flexible tube toregulator. Regulator attaches to rod that holds tank (s) in. If you are getting new and have two tanks, the regulators that automatically switch over from empty tank to full tank are really nice.
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Post by roadtripper on Apr 25, 2019 18:28:07 GMT -8
Thanks. Good ideas there. I’m always too trusting. Funny thing, I was just at that wall mart parking lot in mesquite a few weeks ago. It’s a great area there where Nevada, Utah and Arizona all come together.
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