roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 11, 2017 9:03:58 GMT -8
I'm redoing all the wiring hook up now. The new breakaway switch that was on the tongue wasn't connected. It has 2 wires, a hot and white ground. The existing trailer brake has two wires. The ground I'll tie in to a common ground bus. The other will go to a junction box and tie to the proper wire of the 7 way. The breakaway I know wants to tie to the 12v system of the trailer, not the truck. My question is, do the trailer brake hot and the breakaway hot tie together? I was just going to run the hot from the switch to its own circuit on my house system, but how does it trigger the brakes in an emergency? Not sure of the fuse size for that either. Thanks much for the help.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 10, 2017 20:19:17 GMT -8
Looks good out there under the big sky.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 10, 2017 20:14:05 GMT -8
I think it's your periscope. But maybe just a vent.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 10, 2017 20:02:51 GMT -8
I'll second nc. The 3/4 subfloor should be fine if sealed properly (edges too as you say could not hurt) and avoid the chip board stuff. Should be smooth enough but if not, some here use a thin luan over old stuff for the flooring to glue to. (That's also done in houses btw).
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 9, 2017 9:26:22 GMT -8
Im thinking about that too, but undecided. Was going to toss drawers and rebuild but really the only thing wrong with mine are ugly fronts so im gonna peel off existing 1/8 veneer and glue new 1/8 on. Anyway, nice thing about my existing wood center guide is it drops into place when closed and stays put while on the road. I think a metal guide might need an added catch of some kind. And one woodwork rule i try to not forget.....simple is usually best. Ill let you know if i come up with some metal guide plan though.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 6, 2017 12:00:58 GMT -8
I gotta say i like it better than all the new trailer jobs with the abstract splashes and swirls that look like they got detailed by driving by a paint factory as it was exploding.
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Post by roadtripper on Jun 6, 2017 6:44:50 GMT -8
My original table and tops were 1/2 ply with formica. I'm redoing now and will use similar. You could use 1/2 " ac fir or plug and touch (smooth but with the little footballs) or birth or Baltic birch. We just got some very vintage looking formica from on line Home Depot free shiipping to our house. I'll try and get some pic up when it's done. I think Masonite is pretty tough stuff if it stays dry. Stay way from particle board though (in my opinion).
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Post by roadtripper on May 28, 2017 20:08:20 GMT -8
First this is from a carpenter not an electrician . Most will prob say its not usually in conduit. If its out of the way should be fine but if its run somewhere where it will get bumped with stuff , conduit might be good. And generally dont run romex in conduit but use individual wires.....black, white and green. Hope you get a reply from an electrician.
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Post by roadtripper on May 27, 2017 11:21:29 GMT -8
I use 1/4" (because that's what i have) and they work fine. Sometimes 5/8 and some 1 1/4. Adjust the pressure when needed. Just did new roof fold over on .032 (tough stuff) and with the shorter staples and pressure at 90 worked great for me. Think i was at about 60# on the old siding.
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Post by roadtripper on May 16, 2017 17:28:13 GMT -8
Beautiful clean job Marty. Always enjoy all your posts and comments. So when do you cut the hole in the floor to ice fish through? Long long ago, when I was a young 20 something we used to ice fish in western Montana a lot on Georgetown lake. Just bundled up and hunkered down.
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Post by roadtripper on May 13, 2017 10:41:43 GMT -8
I did a total re roof on mine and well worth it I'd say. And not too hard. You can replace and repair rafters as needed. Replace the edge boards what ever type they are, as it gives a nice new grab for the screws along the upper edge. You can up grade the insulation easily, re-do any wiring if needed, and end up with a beautiful new ceiling.
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Post by roadtripper on May 12, 2017 20:31:48 GMT -8
HI Fortasha, When you say "toolbox" and list table saw I'm thinking you are actually meaning "shop". Anyway, first, like marty says, the multi tool is a must. It may be one of the best elect hand tools ever. Get a good one and don't worry about the cost too much. It's the blades that eat you up on cost on those things. Well I'm an old man, a general contractor and a life long carpenter and woodworker and one is never done getting tools. With hand tools, if you like the feel of nice hand planes, chisels, etc, there can never be enough. But looking at your list two things I think are essential I don't see there is a band saw and clamps. Decent bar clamps from 6" through 24" and some longer bar or pipe clamps help in all kinds of woodwork----including a trailer rebuild. One tool buying rule worth mentioning is, don't buy a tool until you need it, but when you do, get it and don't compromise with the wrong tool. Welcome to the group and happy carpentering.
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Post by roadtripper on May 9, 2017 20:32:54 GMT -8
Glad to hear you're happy with it......that's really what matters most.
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Post by roadtripper on May 8, 2017 11:05:04 GMT -8
A little followup. I agree with the router but also with the comment about making the template. If you have several, make the template once, get the guide bit and you're set. One time shot maybe the good drill bit and jigsaw. And about the saw---if on the practice piece you are getting tear out with the blade you can get a jigsaw blade that cuts on the down stoke and is sometimes easier on the veneer of the ply. If you end up making templates, masonite is good stuff for that.
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Post by roadtripper on May 8, 2017 6:16:00 GMT -8
The tight radius at the end of each cut will be pretty hard with a jig saw. I'd recommend drawing your layout and then using a forsner drill bit of the right size ---- 1" or 1 1/2" or whatever you want, at each end and then connect the holes with the jigsaw. When you drill, clamp the ply down on a piece of scrap to keep the back from splintering out.
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