doubled
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1973 Glendale Scooter
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Ceiling
May 12, 2017 2:57:18 GMT -8
Post by doubled on May 12, 2017 2:57:18 GMT -8
Hi everyone, first post. I recently purchased a 1973 Glendale Scooter and gutted the interior, lots of water damage. When built the ceiling panels were sandwiched between the top plate of the walls and the rounded frame member that the roof is screwed to. I havent decided if I'm going to, or how I'm going to, do this again. My question is does this method add structural integrity to the trailer or was it done to just make a nice edge.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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May 12, 2017 10:05:26 GMT -8
Post by nccamper on May 12, 2017 10:05:26 GMT -8
... gutted the interior, lots of water damage. When built the ceiling panels were sandwiched between the top plate of the walls and the rounded frame member that the roof is screwed to... My question is does this method add structural integrity to the trailer or was it done to just make a nice edge. Welcome! I would proceed slowly with the gutting. If you completely gut it from the inside it may make the camper unstable. If you don't plan of pulling the camper down to the frame and starting a total rebuild it makes sense to do one section at a time. In most vintage campers the ceiling panel should be sandwiched (overlapping) the wall. This gives the camper a lot on tensile strength using otherwise weak layers. So... ceiling overlaps the wall, curving lays on top of the panel, aluminum overlaps the curving. Photos are always appreciated. You’ll find tutorials showing how to link photos to your post here: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/board/19/forum-rules-support-infoTwo resources from our members you should check out: Some excellent videos at cannedhamtrailers.com And a great book at vintagetrailerrepairmanual.weebly.com/
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doubled
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Ceiling
May 13, 2017 2:55:28 GMT -8
Post by doubled on May 13, 2017 2:55:28 GMT -8
Thanks for the answer nccamper, what would you suggest for a ceiling? Masonite? Doesnt seem like there would be a lot of strength in that but I wouldnt know. Its going to be painted. I suppose I'll have to take off the roof to put it back together that way. And yes, little bits at a time is how its getting done. Photos to come.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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May 13, 2017 3:34:11 GMT -8
Post by Ten on May 13, 2017 3:34:11 GMT -8
Roof-off is exactly the way it should be done, and was the original building method. The overlay and the cupboard structure all add to the multi-directional strength of the camper. As vikx is known to say, "do your homework"...learning what you can before you start helps make sense of everything you find as you go. The resources really are worth the time.
There really was a reason for the way they were built. Earlier campers that had the birch interiors were built with 1/8-inch ply and added plenty of strength to the structure. If your plans are to paint, you might consider using luaun. It will give the strength needed in a thin sheet, and is inexpensive (compared to finding the above-mentioned 1/8-inch birch).
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chriss
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May 13, 2017 8:07:26 GMT -8
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Post by chriss on May 13, 2017 8:07:26 GMT -8
You should copy the original construction method, meaning you will have to remove the roof to reattach the new ceiling properly. I would use luan if you are painting it. It's a little lighter and not too brittle on the edges. Don't confuse masonite with hardboard and mdf. They are all different products, but look similar.
As long as the roof panel is off, you can reseal the edges properly. Putty tape, no caulking or silicone.
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nccamper
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May 13, 2017 10:29:02 GMT -8
Post by nccamper on May 13, 2017 10:29:02 GMT -8
Thanks for the answer nccamper, what would you suggest for a ceiling? Masonite? Doesnt seem like there would be a lot of strength in that but I wouldnt know. Its going to be painted. I suppose I'll have to take off the roof to put it back together that way. And yes, little bits at a time is how its getting done. Photos to come. Don't use Masonite. You're right, it's too weak. Taking the roof off is a day job. Well worth the time. Photos would be great.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on May 13, 2017 10:41:43 GMT -8
I did a total re roof on mine and well worth it I'd say. And not too hard. You can replace and repair rafters as needed. Replace the edge boards what ever type they are, as it gives a nice new grab for the screws along the upper edge. You can up grade the insulation easily, re-do any wiring if needed, and end up with a beautiful new ceiling.
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doubled
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May 13, 2017 13:31:55 GMT -8
Post by doubled on May 13, 2017 13:31:55 GMT -8
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doubled
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May 13, 2017 13:55:04 GMT -8
Post by doubled on May 13, 2017 13:55:04 GMT -8
Got it now. Thanks for everyones help, very informative. So this is the underbelly. It sits right on the steel framing members and stapled to the subfloor. ***** to get off. Would you suggest patching all these holes even if I use marine plywood for the sub floor? Resized_20170513_154134 by Dean Morrow, on Flickr
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cowcharge
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May 31, 2017 11:12:00 GMT -8
Post by cowcharge on May 31, 2017 11:12:00 GMT -8
I'd patch any accidental holes that have no function, to keep ground water splashes and bugs out. There may be intentional holes for water drains or gas lines and such. And take pics of every step of the repair, so in case you ever want to sell it you can prove it's been repaired properly.
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Ceiling
Jul 25, 2018 18:02:09 GMT -8
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Post by klasikarabam on Jul 25, 2018 18:02:09 GMT -8
I just bought a Glendale Scooter also. Can you contact me, I am curious to find out more about your project.
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