benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 9, 2015 7:25:00 GMT -8
Ours will be to escape to the Adirondacks RJ.
What about butyl tape and a piece of aluminum pop riveted in place?
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 9, 2015 6:16:16 GMT -8
The good news is the leak is relatively new. At this point I don't have a picture as the antenna is still in place but I guessed 3/4" to be on the bad side. IF it's smaller I plan on using the epoxy for now simply because I will be stripping the camper down in a year or two to rebuild/repair and turn the insides into what I want for fly fishing.
The interesting thing is this was supposedly overhauled a few years ago. They sure did an ..... interesting job of it.
I'll let you know what I find.
Ben
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Apr 8, 2015 15:37:08 GMT -8
So someone in an effort to be up with the times has installed an antenna through the roof of my 65 Shasta Compact and installed speakers and a radio in the cabinet just to the left of the door when you walk in. You know, the one designed to rip your head open?
Well the antenna has been heavily caulked with silicone on the outside. At this point I'd like to say that, IT WAS NOT ME. With the heavy rains we've been having in Ohio it is now leaking around the antenna and under the skin into the ceiling of the trailer.
My question is what type of epoxy would be best to patch this hole, say it's 3/4". Then, now the the ceiling panel is damaged, how can I get that panel out and replace it and what should I replace it with?
I'm hoping to do this Saturday (at least the hole in the roof) since it will be dry.
I appreciate all your help,
Ben
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Sept 14, 2014 11:44:51 GMT -8
Interestingly enough mine never had a canopy. It's J-rail all the way around so I'm thinking of install the new flat C-channel straight against the side of the camper at a slight angle to allow water to drain off.
Ben
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Sept 12, 2014 10:49:40 GMT -8
No one?
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Sept 9, 2014 9:14:01 GMT -8
So I've ordered my awning rail from Rochford and now am looking at tips for installation. I understand that you should use butyl tape behind the rail then mount it. The same article mentioned using Sikaflex 221 to seal top and sides. Has anyone done this before? how did you seal your rail?
Thanks,
Ben
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Sept 8, 2014 9:43:46 GMT -8
How do you waterproof the canvas or is it already?
Ben
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 28, 2014 6:19:43 GMT -8
Thanks John!!
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 27, 2014 10:17:01 GMT -8
So let me lay this all out.
I have a 1.6 amp roof exhaust fan in the trailer. This is the only thing we are powering via DC.
1.6A * 8 hrs = 12.8 AHrs
Purchase a 100 AHr battery which gives me 50 AHr at the 50% threshold
55 watt solar panels to recharge the battery.
55 W / 12 V = 4.58 A
My region is 6 hrs of charging time
4.58A * 6 hrs = 27.48 AHrs in a charging period
Make sense so far?
We will only be camping on shore power once a year in the Adirondacks. Not sure it's worth buying a tender or just a 120 VAC to 12 VDC converter on a switch.
Now the part I'm confused about is that I've read you have to have a fully charged batter for a tender to work properly. Is that true? Is the Battery Tender Jr. a charger and tender all in one?
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 27, 2014 8:52:46 GMT -8
John,
I can't always have the trailer plugged in is the problem. I was planning on just setting the battery on my workbench since it will also be an external battery.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 27, 2014 4:41:13 GMT -8
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 26, 2014 16:22:24 GMT -8
Will the tender charge the battery then maintain it or do I need two different pieces of equipment?
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 26, 2014 10:56:58 GMT -8
As an electrician this is kind of embarrassing but when I take the battery off the trailer and to the basement what is the best way to charge it and keep it charged?
I can pick the right battery for my needs and can pick the right set of solar panels but when it comes to the maintenance of charging on my bench I'm kind of lost.
All help appreciated!
Ben
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 20, 2014 12:25:06 GMT -8
bigbill,
That's exactly right. We are trying to make it functional so we can decide whether it's worth a full restore, 'restore to meet our needs' or build a big teardrop out of the frame.
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benrogers
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Post by benrogers on Aug 19, 2014 5:09:45 GMT -8
It is aluminum and is on the same hinge pin as the main door. Right now we are just trying to get two years out of the trailer before we rebuild it. It looks like the wood frame around the door was actually made for a house as it's got splines in it (joints). I'll use a solid piece of pine to replace the sides and top. Floor looks just fine other than screw holes and holes where furnace and other parts may have gone through. Those have been siliconed! I know, its wrong, but it's the floor which I know for a fact I'll be replacing in a few years.
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