mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 14, 2014 8:12:05 GMT -8
Coloradoan the crown on the vent does cause buckling a bit if it's in the center of the trailer but it is so negligible that by the time it get's to the sides it is dealt with as shown in the roof videos. Hard to explain here but I do show the method of dealing with it. However, if the framing is crowned on the top of the trailer it will never work. We've discussed this in other threads before when people had the idea to crown the ceiling joists for more run off and stronger roof. The metal just won't bend in two directions at once without a machine like a shrinker stretcher and I don't know if that would work either. Perhaps if the entire roof was stamped. In the Taking My Act On The Road series I show the framing done on the Forester. It is a full one inch. The ends are tapered only to keep the heads of the nails from protruding. So I'm still not sure I understand you but could you tell me? Did you crown all the roof framing from the centers to the ends or just taper the last 6 inches or so of each end? If tapered at the ends only the curbing needs to be one inch also. Not 3/4 that it's tapered down to. Wish I could see more photos of the framing compared to the curbing. Wish I had a good photo of the framing up there, but I'm realizing I've been racing to the finish line and completely neglected to document the roof framing properly! The rafters are straight and only tapered the last six inches or so, and I only did this on the two rafters on either side of the roof vent. All the other rafters are straight all the way across and there's no buckling anywhere else - just near the vent (both sides, although streetside is the worst). Does this help? I will watch the videos you mentioned about the Westerner roof. Don't think I've seen those. Thanks for all your help. Like I said, I'll do whatever it takes to make this right. I've come too far to have it screwed up now. OK... The question I keep asking is not being answered.... Is your curbing a full one inch high even where the tapers on the rafters are? If so then you should not have too much of a problem and using the techniques I show in the Westerner Roof Videos should work. Undo what you have now where the buckling is and also undo past the work by at least 3 feet on either side. I know that's half the trailer but you want this right. The Westerner Roof Install Videos are on my Trailer Tidbits and Tutorials page on the website....
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 14, 2014 8:49:13 GMT -8
Is your curbing a full one inch high even where the tapers on the rafters are? If so then you should not have too much of a problem and using the techniques I show in the Westerner Roof Videos should work. Undo what you have now where the buckling is and also undo past the work by at least 3 feet on either side. I know that's half the trailer but you want this right. The Westerner Roof Install Videos are on my Trailer Tidbits and Tutorials page on the website.... Sorry 'bout that. No, the curbing is the same 3/4" all the way around. Even where the two rafters on either side of the vent are taller. Those rafters taper on the last 6" of both ends to meet and be even with the 3/4" curbing. There is a little buckling on the curb side, but NOTHING compared to the street side, which is the side the vent is nearest to the curbing.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 14, 2014 9:02:29 GMT -8
Is your curbing a full one inch high even where the tapers on the rafters are? If so then you should not have too much of a problem and using the techniques I show in the Westerner Roof Videos should work. Undo what you have now where the buckling is and also undo past the work by at least 3 feet on either side. I know that's half the trailer but you want this right. The Westerner Roof Install Videos are on my Trailer Tidbits and Tutorials page on the website.... Sorry 'bout that. No, the curbing is the same 3/4" all the way around. Even where the two rafters on either side of the vent are taller. Those rafters taper on the last 6" of both ends to meet and be even with the 3/4" curbing. There is a little buckling on the curb side, but NOTHING compared to the street side, which is the side the vent is nearest to the curbing. Ok that is what I was trying to find out..... Here's the solution. You are going to need to remove the metal skin and add 1/4 inch thickness or height to the curbing all the way around both sides in order to meet up with the height of the framing... You will not get rid of the buckling if you don't do this. It will happen to the front and rear as well. I know it's a lot of work to re-do but you need to do it.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 14, 2014 9:23:33 GMT -8
Sorry 'bout that. No, the curbing is the same 3/4" all the way around. Even where the two rafters on either side of the vent are taller. Those rafters taper on the last 6" of both ends to meet and be even with the 3/4" curbing. There is a little buckling on the curb side, but NOTHING compared to the street side, which is the side the vent is nearest to the curbing. Ok that is what I was trying to find out..... Here's the solution. You are going to need to remove the metal skin and add 1/4 inch thickness or height to the curbing all the way around both sides in order to meet up with the height of the framing... You will not get rid of the buckling if you don't do this. It will happen to the front and rear as well. I know it's a lot of work to re-do but you need to do it. Wow. I'm thinking it will be WAY easier to remove just the roof and the two rafters which are taller. Make those two rafters 3/4" all the way across, take the vent framing back down to 3/4", everything will then match the 3/4" curbing. That way all the framing AND the curbing are identical. f I remove all the skin (including side skins) and move it up, I have to do something to all the window framing, right? And the skirting will have to be redone. Basically, the whole trailer will have to be reframed?! I can't even think about going there.
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Post by vikx on Jul 14, 2014 9:56:26 GMT -8
Is gutter seal paintable? Yes it is. It also stays flexible.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 14, 2014 11:03:58 GMT -8
Ok that is what I was trying to find out..... Here's the solution. You are going to need to remove the metal skin and add 1/4 inch thickness or height to the curbing all the way around both sides in order to meet up with the height of the framing... You will not get rid of the buckling if you don't do this. It will happen to the front and rear as well. I know it's a lot of work to re-do but you need to do it. Wow. I'm thinking it will be WAY easier to remove just the roof and the two rafters which are taller. Make those two rafters 3/4" all the way across, take the vent framing back down to 3/4", everything will then match the 3/4" curbing. That way all the framing AND the curbing are identical. f I remove all the skin (including side skins) and move it up, I have to do something to all the window framing, right? And the skirting will have to be redone. Basically, the whole trailer will have to be reframed?! I can't even think about going there. If it's only two rafters that are higher than the curbing then yes. Just deal with those two and the vent. Do not raise the vent in this case. It's too close to the side. This will save you a lot of work.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 14, 2014 11:56:50 GMT -8
Wow. I'm thinking it will be WAY easier to remove just the roof and the two rafters which are taller. Make those two rafters 3/4" all the way across, take the vent framing back down to 3/4", everything will then match the 3/4" curbing. That way all the framing AND the curbing are identical. f I remove all the skin (including side skins) and move it up, I have to do something to all the window framing, right? And the skirting will have to be redone. Basically, the whole trailer will have to be reframed?! I can't even think about going there. If it's only two rafters that are higher than the curbing then yes. Just deal with those two and the vent. Do not raise the vent in this case. It's too close to the side. This will save you a lot of work. Thank god or whoever runs the show! That's what I'm going to do. And it's funny how everything hinges on perspective. The thought on Saturday that I would have to remove the new roof and redo those rafters and the vent framing was overwhelming! Now it seems like the simpler and easier solution and I can wrap my mind around it. Taking my first day away from the project in three weeks helped, too. Wish me luck!
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 14, 2014 13:50:10 GMT -8
Pry too late but: See the notches? Cut notches in the overlap and staple. Seal every staple and notch SPARINGLY with Gutter Seal. Vikx, how is gutter seal different from using a waterproof silicone?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 14, 2014 14:02:45 GMT -8
Vikx can follow up here but I can tell you that the two are very different. Just forget about silicone for anything at all having to do with trailer skin and seals. Silicone is not a substance that was developed for sealing purposes. It just kinda feels and looks like it might work so they sell it for EVERYTHING.... Don't believe what you see in Home Depot or Lowes or even Ace Hardware these days. It's not true. They sell it to you because you buy it. Because you think it's an easy fix. It's not meant for this purpose.
Gutter "Seal" is a sealant. Silicone is not. Leave the silicone for breast implants.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 14, 2014 14:10:39 GMT -8
I did a little research last night and found that gutter seal is actually made from butyl rubber.
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hedlund
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Post by hedlund on Jul 14, 2014 14:48:02 GMT -8
Hey PurplePeep, John is spot on. The only place we differ is that I chose to paint the awning & 'J' rail. Shasta painted the lower corner trim pcs. I wire wheeled (stainless wire wheel) the rails / stainless hardware for better paint adhesion. Worked very well, so far. Enjoy & looks like camping in the near future.
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 14, 2014 16:38:15 GMT -8
Vikx can follow up here but I can tell you that the two are very different. Just forget about silicone for anything at all having to do with trailer skin and seals. Silicone is not a substance that was developed for sealing purposes. It just kinda feels and looks like it might work so they sell it for EVERYTHING.... Don't believe what you see in Home Depot or Lowes or even Ace Hardware these days. It's not true. They sell it to you because you buy it. Because you think it's an easy fix. It's not meant for this purpose. Gutter "Seal" is a sealant. Silicone is not. Leave the silicone for breast implants. I love your humor Larry! Lol. Where do you find gutter seal?
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Jul 14, 2014 17:14:06 GMT -8
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 14, 2014 18:17:18 GMT -8
Thanks SusieQ! Very helpful.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 14, 2014 18:25:48 GMT -8
Thanks Susie... My eye was getting tired...
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