ROOF SEAMS: When sealing is a Necessary Evil...
Mar 10, 2014 11:50:27 GMT -8
vintagebruce, kwaggs, and 4 more like this
Post by vikx on Mar 10, 2014 11:50:27 GMT -8
Even though we are a goop free zone here, there are times when sealing roof seams must be done. Say a person can't afford new roof metal or one seam is compromised with the rest of the roof being in good condition. Here are some steps you can take to help prevent leaks. To be used only as a LAST RESORT after appropriate repairs to the trailer.
Proflex in the can is a clear, sticky goop that will seal. It will paint and "stick" minor flakes of previous coatings. It is permanent and difficult to remove. Never use Proflex on a roof vent.
NOTE: Proflex paints on. Do NOT use Proflex caulk.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866447004/in/dateposted-public/" title="Proflex in the CAN"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4055/34866447004_eed761317c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Proflex in the CAN"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Quarts are available.
Gutter Seals come in very handy. They seal small imperfections and holes in the skin. A tiny dab before inserting a screw helps too.
OSI clear micro gutter seal is available at Lowes.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35668125906/in/dateposted-public/" title="Gutter and Seams (3)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35668125906_c1c28e3274_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Gutter and Seams (3)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Aliminum colored Geocel Instant Gutter seal:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866449224/in/dateposted-public/" title="Gutter and Seams (4)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/34866449224_07c7b13450_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Gutter and Seams (4)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The aluminum match is very close. Perfect for door trim gaps and on aluminum skin.
Is the roof off the trailer? Or did you just slide it to one side? If you can get to the underside of the seam, very sticky weatherproofing tape can be placed under each seam. Or at least anyplace you see gaps. The tape is thick and very sticky. At Home Depot by Nashua. Roofing companies sell similar.
This sticky tape is also very good for skin holes. Place behind the hole to seal.
Since the roof will be re-used, the seams must be sealed. You can not putty them, nope. AND: you will never get the seams back together if you try to pry them apart. So, clean the roof as well as you can, sand if you have to. The worst is a roof with silver slop; it dries very hard and not all of it will come off. Just get any loose debris off the seams and vent opening, very clean in those areas, down to bare metal if possible. If the roof has snow cr*p, try to get it all off. It's horrible stuff; peels and allows water to seep and rot the metal.
Insert Sticky Tape Photo here...
Shim your vent area before re-installing the roof:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866619694/in/dateposted-public/" title="Vent Shim 1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4232/34866619694_f828834e16_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Vent Shim 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Once the roof is back in place on the trailer, edges tacked, etc, it's time to seal the seams.
If there are visible gaps or holes in the roof, dab with OSI Gutter Seal and smooth carefully. The trick is to smooth it into the gap. Paint thinner helps keep your finger clean, OSI is sticky.
Once all the gaps are dry, you paint Proflex on each seam. A piece of plywood from edge to edge will prevent damage to roof and allow access to the middle areas. (leave the vent flange for later)
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34898445623/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 m Fan Install (8)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/34898445623_c511011800_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="006 m Fan Install (8)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Use a throw-away brush and paint Proflex thickly. It's gooey and nasty but will self level. Allow to dry (several hours at least) and paint another coat. 3 is very good. You'll see that you needed the 2nd coat, there will be little gaps here and there.
Then paint the roof. Silver is good on old roofs, any light color works and evens up the look. The Proflex will be noticeable on the seams, but looks OK. Remember not to use Proflex in areas that will be visible. It is for roof areas only.
When you re-install the J rail and putty you can also put a VERY THIN layer of Proflex at the top edges. (not where it will show and remember it will drip) Two very thin coats. Less is more here. OSI gives a nicer look but must be smoothed with a finger dipped in paint thinner.
The vent is puttied and screwed in place, then Dicor self leveling lap sealant is used round and round the flange. Cover the screw heads and all edges. The stuff is like liquid bubble gum, you can NOT smooth it. It can be touched up once a year, as it sticks to itself. Dicor around any other roof vents as well.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35577480941/in/dateposted-public/" title="Dicor Lap Sealant (2)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/35577480941_b33d559c3c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Dicor Lap Sealant (2)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35577486721/in/dateposted-public/" title="Dicor on a roof vent"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/35577486721_cf276fc328_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Dicor on a roof vent"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The above should be done carefully and is not a cure all. It works for seams and imperfections. Never coat an entire roof with any product. If the metal is that bad, you will need new metal.
The products above are not to be used to coat or seal un-repaired trailers. They must be applied to clean, debris free metal and will not prevent leaks if used on top of old sealants.
DO NOT SUBSTITUTE PRODUCTS ABOVE. Just because your local RV guy says it's works, doesn't mean it does...
Proflex in the can is a clear, sticky goop that will seal. It will paint and "stick" minor flakes of previous coatings. It is permanent and difficult to remove. Never use Proflex on a roof vent.
NOTE: Proflex paints on. Do NOT use Proflex caulk.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866447004/in/dateposted-public/" title="Proflex in the CAN"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4055/34866447004_eed761317c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Proflex in the CAN"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Quarts are available.
Gutter Seals come in very handy. They seal small imperfections and holes in the skin. A tiny dab before inserting a screw helps too.
OSI clear micro gutter seal is available at Lowes.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35668125906/in/dateposted-public/" title="Gutter and Seams (3)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4212/35668125906_c1c28e3274_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Gutter and Seams (3)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Aliminum colored Geocel Instant Gutter seal:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866449224/in/dateposted-public/" title="Gutter and Seams (4)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4288/34866449224_07c7b13450_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Gutter and Seams (4)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The aluminum match is very close. Perfect for door trim gaps and on aluminum skin.
Is the roof off the trailer? Or did you just slide it to one side? If you can get to the underside of the seam, very sticky weatherproofing tape can be placed under each seam. Or at least anyplace you see gaps. The tape is thick and very sticky. At Home Depot by Nashua. Roofing companies sell similar.
This sticky tape is also very good for skin holes. Place behind the hole to seal.
Since the roof will be re-used, the seams must be sealed. You can not putty them, nope. AND: you will never get the seams back together if you try to pry them apart. So, clean the roof as well as you can, sand if you have to. The worst is a roof with silver slop; it dries very hard and not all of it will come off. Just get any loose debris off the seams and vent opening, very clean in those areas, down to bare metal if possible. If the roof has snow cr*p, try to get it all off. It's horrible stuff; peels and allows water to seep and rot the metal.
Insert Sticky Tape Photo here...
Shim your vent area before re-installing the roof:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34866619694/in/dateposted-public/" title="Vent Shim 1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4232/34866619694_f828834e16_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Vent Shim 1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Once the roof is back in place on the trailer, edges tacked, etc, it's time to seal the seams.
If there are visible gaps or holes in the roof, dab with OSI Gutter Seal and smooth carefully. The trick is to smooth it into the gap. Paint thinner helps keep your finger clean, OSI is sticky.
Once all the gaps are dry, you paint Proflex on each seam. A piece of plywood from edge to edge will prevent damage to roof and allow access to the middle areas. (leave the vent flange for later)
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/34898445623/in/dateposted-public/" title="006 m Fan Install (8)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/34898445623_c511011800_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="006 m Fan Install (8)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Use a throw-away brush and paint Proflex thickly. It's gooey and nasty but will self level. Allow to dry (several hours at least) and paint another coat. 3 is very good. You'll see that you needed the 2nd coat, there will be little gaps here and there.
Then paint the roof. Silver is good on old roofs, any light color works and evens up the look. The Proflex will be noticeable on the seams, but looks OK. Remember not to use Proflex in areas that will be visible. It is for roof areas only.
When you re-install the J rail and putty you can also put a VERY THIN layer of Proflex at the top edges. (not where it will show and remember it will drip) Two very thin coats. Less is more here. OSI gives a nicer look but must be smoothed with a finger dipped in paint thinner.
The vent is puttied and screwed in place, then Dicor self leveling lap sealant is used round and round the flange. Cover the screw heads and all edges. The stuff is like liquid bubble gum, you can NOT smooth it. It can be touched up once a year, as it sticks to itself. Dicor around any other roof vents as well.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35577480941/in/dateposted-public/" title="Dicor Lap Sealant (2)"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/35577480941_b33d559c3c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Dicor Lap Sealant (2)"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53634851@N03/35577486721/in/dateposted-public/" title="Dicor on a roof vent"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/35577486721_cf276fc328_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Dicor on a roof vent"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
The above should be done carefully and is not a cure all. It works for seams and imperfections. Never coat an entire roof with any product. If the metal is that bad, you will need new metal.
The products above are not to be used to coat or seal un-repaired trailers. They must be applied to clean, debris free metal and will not prevent leaks if used on top of old sealants.
DO NOT SUBSTITUTE PRODUCTS ABOVE. Just because your local RV guy says it's works, doesn't mean it does...
I'm happy that I did, too.