coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 13, 2014 5:29:52 GMT -8
I got the old side skins on after a bit of fussing. Then yesterday I started stapling the new, one-piece roof on. I've watched Larry's video on how to do that at least four times (all four parts!) and the trimming to 1/2" and the installation of the webbing went really well. But when I started hammering the fold over and stapling the edges, I got ugly ripples on top around the vent. HELP! I can't let that stand, but I really have no idea how to do it any better. Any advice would be welcome!
I started in the middle, since I"ll have to create the s-lock on each end. Was that the problem? Or is it the 1/4" high lip I created around the vent? Could it be the fact that this metal is thinner than the original? I used a 4x6 wooden block about 8" long to press down as I hammered and stapled, just like the videos showed. I really have no idea what I did wrong. Will the ripples straighten out when I go to staple around the vent, or get worse?
I'm so bummed right now. This project is taking SO much longer than I ever dreamed possible. I've been so meticulous on everything, and everything has turned out so well up to this point. But now, when I'm working on something that will show (of course, only if you're on a ladder), it's not coming out so good. Again, a big plea for HELP!
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 13, 2014 6:46:59 GMT -8
"I had to add 1/2" tapered wedges to the bottom of my skirt boards because something wasn't square. (surprise, surprise). I am using the original skins, whicha have the "Auto Roll" edge at the bottom. I'm getting there!! Started stapling the new roof today. What a bear getting it trimmed to the proper 1/2". Did not like that job one bit." You can just cut off the auto roll, then replace it in the new correct spot with a strip of 1/16" aluminum angle available locally at your metal supplier in 16' lengths. And it's cheap! The 1", or 1 1/4" angle seems to work well for me. Just sand it smooth, then polish it "to a chrome like" finish before you install it. I use a piece of 1/2" scrap plywood as a spacer, then mark the underside of the rood skin with a fine line Sharpie mark. It comes out to about 3/4" of a lip. By the time it's bent over, it leaves a nice edge about 5/8" wide and is easily covered by the 3/4" rain rail. John John, I have to say you were right about needing to install the top half first. Yesterday, we held up the bottom piece first just to see how tall it would be after aligning the bottom auto roll edge and it didn't take long to figure out that wasn't going to work because the bottom of my frame wasn't a straight line (the piece toward the rear was slightly lower than the piece toward the front). The bottom piece was also about 4 in too tall, but the main issue was the bottom of my frame. So in the end, we installed the top half first, then the bottom. I'll be trimming the excess at the bottom and adding a piece of trim like you suggested.
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 13, 2014 6:56:58 GMT -8
I got the old side skins on after a bit of fussing. Then yesterday I started stapling the new, one-piece roof on. I've watched Larry's video on how to do that at least four times (all four parts!) and the trimming to 1/2" and the installation of the webbing went really well. But when I started hammering the fold over and stapling the edges, I got ugly ripples on top around the vent. HELP! I can't let that stand, but I really have no idea how to do it any better. Any advice would be welcome! I started in the middle, since I"ll have to create the s-lock on each end. Was that the problem? Or is it the 1/4" high lip I created around the vent? Could it be the fact that this metal is thinner than the original? I used a 4x6 wooden block about 8" long to press down as I hammered and stapled, just like the videos showed. I really have no idea what I did wrong. Will the ripples straighten out when I go to staple around the vent, or get worse? I'm so bummed right now. This project is taking SO much longer than I ever dreamed possible. I've been so meticulous on everything, and everything has turned out so well up to this point. But now, when I'm working on something that will show (of course, only if you're on a ladder), it's not coming out so good. Again, a big plea for HELP! Hey sorry to hear you're having trouble, I know the feeling! I just started putting the new skin on my Compact yesterday and I had this delusional idea that it could be done in one day. I don't know why I thought that since everything about this project has taken way longer than I thought! Haha I put my roof skin up on top yesterday but didn't get any further than that for now. If it makes you feel any better, at least you didn't screw up the side trimming like I did! I got carried away at the highest point on the street side with my metal shears and accidentally trimmed it too low, to the tune of about 2 inches! I was so upset, I still haven't recovered. I'm not sure how I'm going to cover my screw up. I'm hoping I can fold the roof over more at that one spot, but then the j-rail isn't going to be able to be right at the roof edge if I want it to seal properly. Ugh
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 13, 2014 7:23:03 GMT -8
Coloradoan can you supply some photos? Janica, the way I accomplish the right fit with the roll is to apply the top side skin first, then trim the top of the bottom sheet to fit by setting it up with the bottom tight and then marking and cutting the top of the skin to fit into the S lock. It's in the videos here. Part 1. youtu.be/bH1o-aMviOMPart 2. youtu.be/KdkrL-HMJuMPart 3. youtu.be/YWKci8R2B04
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 13, 2014 8:28:09 GMT -8
Coloradoan can you supply some photos? Janica, the way I accomplish the right fit with the roll is to apply the top side skin first, then trim the top of the bottom sheet to fit by setting it up with the bottom tight and then marking and cutting the top of the skin to fit into the S lock. It's in the videos here. Part 1. youtu.be/bH1o-aMviOMPart 2. youtu.be/KdkrL-HMJuMPart 3. youtu.be/YWKci8R2B04Larry - I had planned to do exactly what you described above, however I quickly realized that wouldn't work because the bottom of my frame was uneven. One side was a little lower than the wood on the other side of the wheel well, so the nice factory tapered edge wouldn't fit snug all the way across. I'm going to have to use a separate piece of trim as a result, so that's why I decided to cut off the factory edge. I'm wondering if maybe I can use the factory edge as trim if I cut it right? Or do you think it's too thin and won't work as a trim piece? Just trying to come up a creative solution that doesn't require me to buy another piece of trim and polish it to match the extremely shiny aluminum that is my new skin.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 13, 2014 9:41:33 GMT -8
Here's a photo of the ripples. They actually smoothed out a bit when I loosened the webbing, and the shininess of the new roof really highlights them, BUT they're still there and I simply can't imagine I'll be happy if I just move on and trust they'll look better once it's painted. I'm trying to convince myself to do that, but it's not in my nature. Any advice for how to deal with this would be awesome! Thanks!
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 13, 2014 9:45:11 GMT -8
This is a better photo. The previous one exaggerates the problem a bit too much, and as I said, once I loosened the webbing it looks better. When I was satnding above it and looking down I couldn't see that it had rippled at all. It's just when I look across it that you can really see them. Would they smooth out when I staple around the vent, or get worse?
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 13, 2014 10:44:47 GMT -8
Coloradoan can you supply some photos? Janica, the way I accomplish the right fit with the roll is to apply the top side skin first, then trim the top of the bottom sheet to fit by setting it up with the bottom tight and then marking and cutting the top of the skin to fit into the S lock. It's in the videos here. Part 1. youtu.be/bH1o-aMviOMPart 2. youtu.be/KdkrL-HMJuMPart 3. youtu.be/YWKci8R2B04Larry - I had planned to do exactly what you described above, however I quickly realized that wouldn't work because the bottom of my frame was uneven. One side was a little lower than the wood on the other side of the wheel well, so the nice factory tapered edge wouldn't fit snug all the way across. I'm going to have to use a separate piece of trim as a result, so that's why I decided to cut off the factory edge. I'm wondering if maybe I can use the factory edge as trim if I cut it right? Or do you think it's too thin and won't work as a trim piece? Just trying to come up a creative solution that doesn't require me to buy another piece of trim and polish it to match the extremely shiny aluminum that is my new skin. Jannica, we had that same problem yesterday realizing the bottom of our trailer wasn't even. We worked on the bottom of the trailer making it even by adding shims. After a little work, the auto roll fit perfectly up and down both sides of the trailer. We had the same issue this morning with the front of the trailer too, we sanded the frame to make it even and it will fit perfectly now.
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 13, 2014 10:54:06 GMT -8
Here is a picture of ours from above.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 13, 2014 11:08:36 GMT -8
Here is a picture of ours from above. That's more like it, Jody!
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 13, 2014 11:40:06 GMT -8
Larry - I had planned to do exactly what you described above, however I quickly realized that wouldn't work because the bottom of my frame was uneven. One side was a little lower than the wood on the other side of the wheel well, so the nice factory tapered edge wouldn't fit snug all the way across. I'm going to have to use a separate piece of trim as a result, so that's why I decided to cut off the factory edge. I'm wondering if maybe I can use the factory edge as trim if I cut it right? Or do you think it's too thin and won't work as a trim piece? Just trying to come up a creative solution that doesn't require me to buy another piece of trim and polish it to match the extremely shiny aluminum that is my new skin. Jannica, we had that same problem yesterday realizing the bottom of our trailer wasn't even. We worked on the bottom of the trailer making it even by adding shims. After a little work, the auto roll fit perfectly up and down both sides of the trailer. We had the same issue this morning with the front of the trailer too, we sanded the frame to make it even and it will fit perfectly now. That's a great idea, wish I would have thought of that yesterday! It's a little late now since I already stapled everything in. Oh well, I'll figure something out to make it look good in the end.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 13, 2014 12:19:02 GMT -8
Jannica, we had that same problem yesterday realizing the bottom of our trailer wasn't even. We worked on the bottom of the trailer making it even by adding shims. After a little work, the auto roll fit perfectly up and down both sides of the trailer. We had the same issue this morning with the front of the trailer too, we sanded the frame to make it even and it will fit perfectly now.
Exactly what I did on the sides. The shimming really worked!
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 13, 2014 12:24:33 GMT -8
When the vent is so close to the edge the crown needs to be slight. Like no more than 1/2 inch. Maybe only 3/8 and if it is too close, no crown at all. The closer to the middle of the trailer it is the easier it is to keep this from happening. I don't know how hard it would be to remove the crown but that would be one way to deal with it as long as the ripples are not permanent. Also if you cut the hole for the vent now it may relieve some pressure. I kind of go through how to deal with buckling from the vent in the 57 Westerner roof series but it looks like yours is way close to the edge. That m akes it tough. Can you remove the crown very easily? I can't think of any other way to deal with it.
On the shimming of the auto roll I have had to add shimming that measures from nothing to what is needed many times before. I get the skin on first and get it trimmed the best I can and then measure and cut the shimming material, move the metal back away from the bottom a few inches and glue and staple it in to the bottom. Then attach the bottom of the auto roll with staples. Works great.
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 13, 2014 13:02:06 GMT -8
Ugh, I wish I would have thought to do the shimming method yesterday but now it's too late. I'm learning some lessons the hard way with this project. You guys will probably cry when you see this (I know I did ), but the mistake has been made, and I am in major need of some help! I cut the street side too short accidentally because I got carried away with my aluminum shears because I didn't have staples in that spot to guide me yesterday (and was going too fast). I am thinking maybe I can fold the roof over more on that part and lower the drip rail a little to cover it. Is that the best thing to do or is there some other trick I can do to fix this major screw up?? I'm so mad at myself for doing this to my new, beautiful skin!! The electric shears were awesome and made the job so much easier, but they were also a curse at the same time because they cut so fast that it's easy to make a mistake. I was also thinking I could shave off a little of the wood on both sides to make the gap smaller, but that would only take me so far. Advice is much appreciated!!
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 13, 2014 13:20:10 GMT -8
When the vent is so close to the edge the crown needs to be slight. Like no more than 1/2 inch. Maybe only 3/8 and if it is too close, no crown at all. The closer to the middle of the trailer it is the easier it is to keep this from happening. I don't know how hard it would be to remove the crown but that would be one way to deal with it as long as the ripples are not permanent. Also if you cut the hole for the vent now it may relieve some pressure. I kind of go through how to deal with buckling from the vent in the 57 Westerner roof series but it looks like yours is way close to the edge. That m akes it tough. Can you remove the crown very easily? I can't think of any other way to deal with it. . No way I can remove the crown, since I didn't really shim it. I replaced those bowed roof rafters with 2x2s that I ripped on the table saw to a true 1" thick and then planed the taper to the 3/4" thickness at the edge. The vent is less than 1 foot away from the edge I thought of maybe stuffing MORE insulation up in there from inside (through the vent hole before I cut it) to "puff" out the ripples. They aren't permanent and that might work(?) then shim the vent even more by gluing and clamping pieces (from inside again).... Sigh. Who keeps saying "If this was easy everyone would do it"? Got that right!
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