purplepeep
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1966 Serro ScottyTonga
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Post by purplepeep on Jul 8, 2014 13:00:56 GMT -8
Hi,
We're coming down the home stretch with our Scotty. We'll be getting new skins for her.
When we go to install, do the sides go on first? Then the front/ back with the top last?
Thanks in advance! Anne
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 8, 2014 15:41:26 GMT -8
Top Sides are first, Bottom Sides are second, Top/Roof is third, Front and Back are forth and fifth. Door and Storage Doors are last. Then Paint trailer and graphics. Then cut out and install all windows. The edge rail and awning rail is last, when I do it. I'm sure others have their own way.
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Post by bigbill on Jul 8, 2014 17:43:46 GMT -8
Johns way saves a lot of masking time & effort.
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purplepeep
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Post by purplepeep on Jul 8, 2014 18:00:11 GMT -8
Thank you both for your help!
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 11, 2014 5:43:11 GMT -8
Top Sides are first, Bottom Sides are second, Top/Roof is third, Front and Back are forth and fifth. Door and Storage Doors are last. Then Paint trailer and graphics. Then cut out and install all windows. The edge rail and awning rail is last, when I do it. I'm sure others have their own way. Why do you say top sides are first? I was planning to put on the bottom sides first because mine came with the bottom side already folded by the factory so that it will easily fit around the bottom of my Compact. I will of course want the bottom side to fit perfectly, so I'm guessing maybe bottom sides should go on in my case. Just curious why you would normally want to put the top sides on first.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 11, 2014 8:59:35 GMT -8
Top Sides are first, Bottom Sides are second, Top/Roof is third, Front and Back are forth and fifth. Door and Storage Doors are last. Then Paint trailer and graphics. Then cut out and install all windows. The edge rail and awning rail is last, when I do it. I'm sure others have their own way. Why do you say top sides are first? I was planning to put on the bottom sides first because mine came with the bottom side already folded by the factory so that it will easily fit around the bottom of my Compact. I will of course want the bottom side to fit perfectly, so I'm guessing maybe bottom sides should go on in my case. Just curious why you would normally want to put the top sides on first. It's simple, the top side panel has a "S Lock seam", at it's "lower edge".
The only way you can secure this seam to the trailer framing is to staple it BEFORE you install the lower panel which just slips into the S Lock.
You need to think at least two steps ahead, so you don't paint yourself into a corner! LOL
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jannica
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Post by jannica on Jul 11, 2014 11:17:12 GMT -8
I thought I was thinking ahead but now you've got me wondering. Wouldn't I want to install the lower half first so I know the exact spot where the lower panel will meet the s-lock seam in order to staple it in the right location? I was thinking I wouldn't trim the top edge of the lower half, I would see where it meets the s-lock and then make sure they're lined up so I would only need to trim around the roof edge. I know you're way more experienced than me but I guess I'm having a hard time letting go of my original idea. Haha
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 11, 2014 18:29:14 GMT -8
You do not have much "up and down" adjustment room on where the panel goes because most trailers have only a two inch wide strip of wood that runs under the side center seam.
You want the bottom panel "when installed", to hide all of the staples used to secure the top panel to the framing. I do not order my metal with the "bottom edge bent" because I have yet to see a trailer that was exactly straight. It's much easier to bend and/or cut the bottom and finish it with a trim strip as the last step.
You cannot trim the bottom panel "at the top" because it will screw up the brake pattern. You can only trim the panels at the top of the roof, or at the bottom of the trailer.
If you have "your plan" already in place, run with it.
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coloradoan
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Post by coloradoan on Jul 11, 2014 21:05:00 GMT -8
You do not have much "up and down" adjustment room on where the panel goes because most trailers have only a two inch wide strip of wood that runs under the side center seam.
You want the bottom panel "when installed", to hide all of the staples used to secure the top panel to the framing. I do not order my metal with the "bottom edge bent" because I have yet to see a trailer that was exactly straight. It's much easier to bend and/or cut the bottom and finish it with a trim strip as the last step.
You cannot trim the bottom panel "at the top" because it will screw up the brake pattern. You can only trim the panels at the top of the roof, or at the bottom of the trailer.
If you have "your plan" already in place, run with it.
I had to add 1/2" tapered wedges to the bottom of my skirt boards because something wasn't square. (surprise, surprise). I am using the original skins, whicha have the "Auto Roll" edge at the bottom. I'm getting there!! Started stapling the new roof today. What a bear getting it trimmed to the proper 1/2". Did not like that job one bit.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 11, 2014 21:30:02 GMT -8
"I had to add 1/2" tapered wedges to the bottom of my skirt boards because something wasn't square. (surprise, surprise). I am using the original skins, whicha have the "Auto Roll" edge at the bottom. I'm getting there!! Started stapling the new roof today. What a bear getting it trimmed to the proper 1/2". Did not like that job one bit."
You can just cut off the auto roll, then replace it in the new correct spot with a strip of 1/16" aluminum angle available locally at your metal supplier in 16' lengths. And it's cheap! The 1", or 1 1/4" angle seems to work well for me. Just sand it smooth, then polish it "to a chrome like" finish before you install it.
I use a piece of 1/2" scrap plywood as a spacer, then mark the underside of the rood skin with a fine line Sharpie mark. It comes out to about 3/4" of a lip. By the time it's bent over, it leaves a nice edge about 5/8" wide and is easily covered by the 3/4" rain rail.
John
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 12, 2014 18:49:12 GMT -8
We just did this today. It was our first time installing the skin, and I too thought you would put the bottom on first. But it made more sense to put the top on first. What we did was put the bottom panel up (not attached). and marked all the way across the trailer where the top of the bottom of the skin hit. We then took the top piece and marked all the way across the trailer where it would connect to the S seam. We then attached the top piece leaving around 16-18 inches of excess skin above the roof line, making sure it lined up with our mark all the way across the trailer. We then were able to slide the bottom piece up into the S seam and the auto roll lined up perfectly at the bottom. So the only piece of siding that had to be cut was the top piece. Not sure if my explanation made any sense but it will make sense once you start.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 12, 2014 19:09:21 GMT -8
We just did this today. It was our first time installing the skin, and I too thought you would put the bottom on first. But it made more sense to put the top on first. What we did was put the bottom panel up (not attached). and marked all the way across the trailer where the top of the bottom of the skin hit. We then took the top piece and marked all the way across the trailer where it would connect to the S seam. We then attached the top piece leaving around 16-18 inches of excess skin above the roof line, making sure it lined up with our mark all the way across the trailer. We then were able to slide the bottom piece up into the S seam and the auto roll lined up perfectly at the bottom. So the only piece of siding that had to be cut was the top piece. Not sure if my explanation made any sense but it will make sense once you start. YAY! One of my viewers listened to me! LOL... Great job Jody! It's people like you who make me look good ya know. Neat eh? Don't ya just feel all warm and fuzzy inside now? Good job.... Now where are the photos? I really like John's idea of not cutting out the windows until after paint.
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John Palmer
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Post by John Palmer on Jul 12, 2014 21:06:13 GMT -8
We just did this today. It was our first time installing the skin, and I too thought you would put the bottom on first. But it made more sense to put the top on first. What we did was put the bottom panel up (not attached). and marked all the way across the trailer where the top of the bottom of the skin hit. We then took the top piece and marked all the way across the trailer where it would connect to the S seam. We then attached the top piece leaving around 16-18 inches of excess skin above the roof line, making sure it lined up with our mark all the way across the trailer. We then were able to slide the bottom piece up into the S seam and the auto roll lined up perfectly at the bottom. So the only piece of siding that had to be cut was the top piece. Not sure if my explanation made any sense but it will make sense once you start. YAY! One of my viewers listened to me! LOL... Great job Jody! It's people like you who make me look good ya know. Neat eh? Don't ya just feel all warm and fuzzy inside now? Good job.... Now where are the photos? I really like John's idea of not cutting out the windows until after paint.
Larry, leaving the openings "filled in" with the siding material "until after paint" does work great.
BUT.......and a BIG BUT...... do not try and use "the router method" to cut the openings out, if it's repainted. What happens is all of the little aluminum router bits get between the router base and the new paint and you will end up with scratches around the openings. Use the router only on old, or new aluminum, but not repainted aluminum. If you repaint, then cut out the openings, your going to need to "hand cut" each window (only takes about two minutes time).
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 12, 2014 21:22:17 GMT -8
Yep I get that John. You know how much I love the router but yes it does scratch the surface. Being that I don't do the painting I doubt I will be trying it for a while. But it's good to know.
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jodybitzz
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Post by jodybitzz on Jul 13, 2014 3:58:35 GMT -8
Yesterday we learned about the routing and scratching. We used masking tape to tape all around the perimeter of the windows and also put tape on the base of the router and it worked great, no scratches.
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