mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Feb 2, 2018 15:30:39 GMT -8
I have started taking some cabinet doors and drawers out of the airflyte so I can work on getting some new shellac on them. I thought I remember someone on here saying they just did a light sanding on the old wood and put one coat of shellac over that then of course the clear coat. What grit would I use?
I am really not wanting to take all the panels/wood im keeping down to bare like I did with the compact. I cant remember who said they did the light sanding?? I just want to make sure that it should work?? or am i being crazy and only imagined someone said that would be ok??
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2018 15:36:16 GMT -8
I would start with 120-grit to remove any finish that might still be on top of the wood. If there is no finish, then start with 150-grit. Progress to 220-grit as your smooth base for new stain and/or finish. Then scuff lightly with 400 grit between finish coats
Use a DA or orbital sander if you have one to make life a lot easier. And don't forget that dust mask, especially on older wood that might have some contaminants becoming airborne. Don't need to be breathing that stuff!
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shastatom
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I can chase women or fix campers, I choose to fix what I understand........... campers.
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Post by shastatom on Feb 2, 2018 15:37:56 GMT -8
Mel, I think it came from Mobiletec but I could be wrong. But he seems to have done just about everything at some point.
Here is my guess. 220 grit or at least that is what I plan to use on my camper.
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 2, 2018 16:06:37 GMT -8
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 2, 2018 16:48:39 GMT -8
"...they just did a light sanding on the old wood and put one coat of shellac over that then of course the clear coat"
I think it was vikx.
My first couple of campers I took it down to bare wood then used shellac. The Forester I just did a light sanding followed by wipe on and off with bamboo oil (sort of like stain) followed by spar urethane. I went this route because the panels were in nice shape and they had polyurethane on them from a previous owner.
The bigger question, how many panels are being replaced? If you're replacing 4 out of 7, front to back ceiling, replacing all of them will eliminate the color matching issue. This what we did on the Shasta 1500.
I probably should have done the same on the Forester but I loved the original wood grain. The new rear lower panel matched really well but the vent panel is a little too red. Nobody but me notices yet it drives me nuts.
Your Compact is beautiful. Sanding down to fresh wood got you great results.
vikx also used a scraper. I think with very good results.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 17:15:36 GMT -8
If it's a good panel that you wish to keep then what I do is a VERY light sanding with 220 grit. VERY LIGHT... And then depending on how dark I want the panel I either add a coat of amber and then clear of just clear if I like what is there. The main thing is that when not replacing all the panels or not removing ALL of the shellac, you will need to match the new panels to the old. So get the old panels all to match up and then match the new ones to the old. Once you have the darkness of the amber matched just hit it with two coats of clear or more. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 18:33:20 GMT -8
By the way, because of Vikx I tried the scraper and it really saves a lot of time. Way less sanding. Very happy with the results.
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mel
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Post by mel on Feb 2, 2018 19:02:04 GMT -8
If it's a good panel that you wish to keep then what I do is a VERY light sanding with 220 grit. VERY LIGHT... And then depending on how dark I want the panel I either add a coat of amber and then clear of just clear if I like what is there. The main thing is that when not replacing all the panels or not removing ALL of the shellac, you will need to match the new panels to the old. So get the old panels all to match up and then match the new ones to the old. Once you have the darkness of the amber matched just hit it with two coats of clear or more. Thanks, that's exactly what I was thinking so it must have been you I talked to about it before. And I was just browsing the scrappers at harbor freight today, I'm going to try it where the PO put the decals/stickers on the wood. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 19:20:32 GMT -8
If it's a good panel that you wish to keep then what I do is a VERY light sanding with 220 grit. VERY LIGHT... And then depending on how dark I want the panel I either add a coat of amber and then clear of just clear if I like what is there. The main thing is that when not replacing all the panels or not removing ALL of the shellac, you will need to match the new panels to the old. So get the old panels all to match up and then match the new ones to the old. Once you have the darkness of the amber matched just hit it with two coats of clear or more. Thanks, that's exactly what I was thinking so it must have been you I talked to about it before. And I was just browsing the scrappers at harbor freight today, I'm going to try it where the PO put the decals/stickers on the wood. This is one tool that you may want to purchase at Home Depot. I think i got mine for under $15 there and it works very well. There is also a sharpening tool you can get for them called a burnishing tool I think... Haven't gotten one of those yet. I should...  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2018 19:44:03 GMT -8
Mel - be really careful with metal scrapers on a wood surface you want to preserve. You might want to try a chemical adhesive remover first. Something mild like mineral spirits, or something a little more aggressive like charcoal fluid or acetone for really tough stuff.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 19:47:00 GMT -8
Mel - be really careful with metal scrapers on a wood surface you want to preserve. You might want to try a chemical adhesive remover first. Something mild like mineral spirits, or something a little more aggressive like charcoal fluid or acetone for really tough stuff. NO! Use the scraper. You will love it. It won't scratch anything. Never use chemicals on shellac... |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 19:49:54 GMT -8
The scraper has a special shape to the blade so there is never really a corner anywhere to dig into the wood. I was really amazed at how well it worked. And at first, you will think it's not doing much until you look at the wood you just scraped. The stuff comes off like fine dust. Strange at first but you will get it in no time.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 20:10:05 GMT -8
Straight from National Association of Watch & Clock collectors:
Normally, mineral spirits will have no effect on shellac (whose solvent is alcohol). If color is coming off with mineral spirits, my guess is that it's some kind of stain that was applied on top of the finish. Or maybe it's an oil finish.
I've used shellac for over 20 years on my cabinetmaking projects and always use mineral spirits for cleaning purposes. Mobiltec - are you confusing alcohol with mineral spirits?
We're dealing with veneer here and you don't want to put any kind of chemicals on this paneling especially shellac. Only denatured alcohol should be used. Solid wood is a totally different story. |
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 20:14:56 GMT -8
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 2, 2018 20:19:05 GMT -8
In my videos I explain how using anything else but denatured alcohol can affect anything else you do to it afterwards. If you are trying to match another panel you don't want anything else possibly mixing with the shellac or staining the wood veneer. Also, this is very thing veneer and some chemicals can bleed through and cause the veneer to detach from the core.
The best thing about shellac besides the warm look is how easy it is to repair if scratched or damaged. Bicycle pedal scratches are a biggy and as long as all you have ever used is denatured alcohol and shellac on it, you can repair it... So there's a lot of reasons we do things in vintage trailers that are not done in normal life. LOL "normal life"....
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