kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 13, 2019 20:05:08 GMT -8
Just making triple sure I am using the right ones- we use sheet metal screws for exterior right? Metal skins, windows, jrail etc? NOT wood screws. Am I correct? Thanks K
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 8, 2019 18:48:23 GMT -8
So, I got my top side pieces of new metal on this weekend. So excited! My brothers helped- it was over 90 degrees in the barn- ugh! IMG_7222 by kathy, I now know I did not need as many staples along the perimeter- UGH! Live and learn I guess. IMG_7229 by kathy, I used the electric metal shears- and it worked GREAT !! IMG_7236 by kathy, on Flickron Flickron Flickr Last night I cut out the bathroom window opening and wanted to see how my nice and shiny window looked. Of course- it had a screw in it that I did not see, and I scratched the new metal just a bit. ( sorry- no photo) What is the best way to fix this? Should I lightly sand and then shoot with some white paint? The metal is the Polar White from Hemmet Valley. Thanks all Kathy
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 5, 2019 12:14:58 GMT -8
Yes, the white wire from the 7 way cord should be grounded to the frame, and when plugged in will ground vehicle and trailer. Be sure the receptacle on the vehicle has a ground to the vehicle frame. GOtcha! Thanks once again-
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 5, 2019 12:10:17 GMT -8
Thanks all- we got it done today. Tested all the trailer wiring- and EVERYTHING is working!!! Yahoooo!!! Been a long time coming- but she's done. Metal starting to go on tomorrow-so happy
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 4, 2019 9:41:30 GMT -8
So I got a circuit breaker for the charge line on my 7 pin tow wires. It won't fit in my J box with all the tow wires (bought one on Amazon). Do I need to add another j box to put this in? For the 2 posts on circuit breaker- do I have this right: -one post is for hot battery line coming off the fuse block in the trailer -other post is for (1) black wire from 7 pin tow line and (2) positive line to battery. Do I have that right? So confusing Thanks Kathy
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 2, 2019 17:49:03 GMT -8
Running a ground to the frame from each light will work just fine. You will need to have the tow vehicle grounded to the trailer frame for the lights to work too. Thanks !!
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 2, 2019 7:44:18 GMT -8
Ok- so after reading and re-reading tow wiring threads, my head is spinning. I think I have it all right so far- got a new 7 pin connector, installed a j box at tongue- ran wires for marker, right turn and left turn under trailer to the back for lights and marker light circuit. I connected the white wire up front after j box to the frame, and installed another white wire in the back to the frame for back light grounds. I am running a ground to all of my lights- just to be sure. I have read that people put a ground wire from each light and attach it to the skin under a screw. Is it ok to run the ground wire from the light to the frame itself (vs skin)? Just checking- as that what I have done, but can always connect it to the skin instead. Thanks Kathy
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Jul 1, 2019 13:34:43 GMT -8
I am mounting my trailer wiring j box on the side of the tongue. Can someone tell me- can I just screw the box into the tongue (tube metal) or do I need to drill through the tube and mount it with a nut and bolt? I am unsure of how best to mount it to ensure it is securely fastened. IMG_7175 by kathy, on Flickr ** Disregard to electric tape holding it on Thanks Kathy
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kaffi311
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1963 Shasta 16 SC
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Post by kaffi311 on Jun 30, 2019 5:15:14 GMT -8
I have a 63 Shasta SC- spec sheet says 1950 lbs. The front jack was broken- so I removed and need to replace. What weight jack stand do I need? I ordered a 1000 lb- but now am worried I am incorrect. Thanks all Kathy
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Jun 21, 2019 8:37:38 GMT -8
The regulator can connect right to the tank: Thanks so much Vikx!! Very understandable now.
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Jun 20, 2019 17:14:18 GMT -8
So I am working on my propane tank holder on the tongue- I am going to have one propane tank and my battery box. I will not be reusing the original propane tank holder- as it was for 2 tanks ( oval 'shelf' and T shaped tank holder). IMG_6826 by kathy, on Flickr IMG_6905 by kathy, on Flickr I am having a new rectangular 'shelf' made to fit my tank and battery box- as the original oval one doesn't work with the bigger battery. SO....how do I hold down the tank and battery? I am thinking I need to have my 'metal man' put some holes in the bottom of the shelf to accommodate some hold downs - but don't know what they should look like. Any one have photos to share of how you hold your tank and battery box down? Also- do I need to mount the regulator somewhere- or can it just hang? Thanks !!
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on May 6, 2019 18:07:49 GMT -8
Well, let me just say that I am so touched by your photos. To see you sharing your love of the outdoors with the next generation is what it is all about....those little boys will have those memories with them forever. I still remember taking my 2 year old son on my own (I was newly divorced) camping with my first pop-up....it was pure joy! The trips we have taken over the years have created the best memories. He is now 27, but is a true outdoor lover, and that is my greatest joy. Your camper is the coolest!!! Congrats on an amazing job!
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Apr 26, 2019 17:21:17 GMT -8
But I dont want to put a hole in my new metal ! Ha ha! Is that the way it should be done- or is it ok to run it under the front metal? I'm talking about the chassis metal. That big L metal frame that you bolted the wood too. Under the floor. Gotcha!!
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Apr 26, 2019 17:03:39 GMT -8
You can drill a hole in the metal and insert a rubber grommet in it. Make it large enough to get the 7 pin wire through it. Ace Hardware and other places have the grommets. Also auto parts stores. Get the grommet first and you can see what size hole to drill. Use a carbide drill bit for easier drilling. Also drill a 1/8 inch pilot hole first. But I dont want to put a hole in my new metal ! Ha ha! Is that the way it should be done- or is it ok to run it under the front metal?
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kaffi311
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Post by kaffi311 on Apr 26, 2019 13:27:52 GMT -8
Reflectix can be laid over the rafters IF the metal will accommodate the lift. Some metal is very 'tight' and short on the edges, so may not have enough of a lip over the siding. You already have lifted the roof vent. The old fiberglass insulation gave a bit of lift as well, so Reflextic should be OK over the rafters. A trial run is recommended. Well, today I decided to cut it all back to just fit in the areas between rafters. It wasn't too hard- and won't cause me trouble down the line. Vikx- it seems secure itself without stapling or taping - pretty snug sitting in the areas between rafters. Is that ok to just leave it as-is? Or do you think I need to secure it better. I am putting a vapor barrier over top of it which will be stapled in place. Thanks so much ! K
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