larryb
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Post by larryb on Jan 11, 2018 3:37:00 GMT -8
I have not posted a while and we are making good progress on our 1975 Scotty Hilander, in fact, we have our first trip planned for March, 16 months after purchase. We even got a title! But that is a whole other story.
I bought a reproduction of the vintage door stopper, it has a small piece with rubber in the middle on one side and on the other the long pencil like extension that keeps the door from hitting.
Very simply, which side goes where?
Thanks for everyone that has helped me out through this project.
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Sept 8, 2017 18:10:51 GMT -8
I know this! I am usually just asking. What I did was use a thin metal cutting blade on my dremel (sp) to cut out the middle of the screw and then pushed it out, worked quite well.
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Jun 21, 2017 8:32:09 GMT -8
Now I am just praying it will stay on!
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Jun 21, 2017 3:25:04 GMT -8
I have not posted in a quite a while but we have steadily worked on our Scotty. We have walls, ceiling,and now a roof. I have to say this is the most difficult project my wife and I have ever worked on. At times, I thought it would end up in the trash and I would be single again!. Here is my latest blog post, too many pictures to post here so take a look. Thanks to everyone that has helped us. larryscottyhilander.blogspot.com
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Jun 9, 2017 17:42:15 GMT -8
I bought my roof, corner rail, screws and lights, all seem fine, roof goes on next week. Very helpful and Jerry encouraged me to call. If I needed any advice.
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larryb
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Post by larryb on May 27, 2017 2:11:14 GMT -8
I am at the place where I am wiring the towing lights on my 1975 Scotty Hilander. I am not sure how to run the lights from the location of the lights to underneath the trailer where I plan for a junction box. I would rather not have to put a hole or holes in the floor, any creative solutions?
I would rather not daisy chain my clearance lights so that when something happens they can be fixed. Seems like the more connections, the more likely one is to fail. So I had planned to have a separate wire and then to bring them together at the junction box, maybe this is not possible?
Thanks for the help.
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larryb
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Post by larryb on May 20, 2017 16:56:09 GMT -8
I read somewhere here recently that Jerry was thinking about going out of business. Just wanted to let everyone know that this is not the case. I bought my roof, lights, screws and other items from him, he was very helpful and told me I could call him if I needed anything. He told me that he is very busy and expanding his operation. I recommend him..... now if I can get the roof on.... ;-)
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Jan 22, 2017 9:14:55 GMT -8
Thank you so much, that was very helpful and we feel much better going ahead, u did your good deed for the day!
Larry
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Jan 21, 2017 15:19:58 GMT -8
We laid the floor today and are beginning think about the floors. I know they are built out of sheets of wood but I do have a few questions and appreciate if the Scotty folks would chime in.
1. Did you use 3/4 birch or something else, if so what?
2. Did you build the entire wall and then put it into place? How did you deal with the weight of that? I see that some people, maybe Miles Boyer, seem to screw wood into the floor from the bottom and then lay the walls on that. I am not sure I want to put screws in my newly waterproofed trailer and am not sure it would hold anyway. All I can think of doing is build a structure that is the same height of the floor of the trailer.
3. How did you attach the wall to the floor of the trailer?
No disasters yet, it is more fun to put it back together than dismantle all that rot! Really appreciate the help.
Larry
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Dec 28, 2016 13:28:42 GMT -8
Took a couple of weeks off for the holidays and to give my welder a chance to finish the trailer. Brakes redone, a few welds added to some of the weaker places and stabilizers installed. It is ready to pickup and so, this weekend we will be sanding and hope we get to priming, then on to painting the frame. Nice to get past deconstruction.
So I am thinking about the floor, spent quite a bit of time searching the site and the responses are all over the place. At this point, we are leaning to a 1/2 inch plywood "sandwich" with 1/2 inch plywood on the bottom, 1 x 4 framing in the middle (with insulation in the spaces) and another 1/2 inch plywood on the top. Then coating the bottom.
Any experiences from the Scotty people, feedback, ideas and reassurance would really help. Hate to start this with a major screwup. Thanks
Larry
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Nov 29, 2016 3:16:13 GMT -8
Thanks, this helps and I appreciate the suggestions
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Nov 28, 2016 9:22:08 GMT -8
Another new skill to learn, biscuits it is!
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Nov 28, 2016 5:17:27 GMT -8
So, we spent most of Thanksgiving taking apart our 1975 Scotty Hilander, we now have some wood, the windows, skin and a few other assorted pieces. The guy at our dump is wondering what we are up to. The trailer is off to my favorite welder for inspection an repair. I have not been able to locate any descriptions about how to join the pieces of plywood that will be the first layer of the floor. I have seen people use metal joiners on the side walls but I'm not sure if that is the most appropriate way to do it. We are planning to paint this layer with bedliner. Also, I see that there are a variety of opinions about the kind of wood to use, from marine plywood, on, any thoughts on that would be appreciated as well. Thanks to all, Larry larryscottyhilander.blogspot.com
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Nov 27, 2016 14:40:00 GMT -8
Can you say a bit more about your plan for wooden wheel wells? what do u have in mind, what will you do to waterproof it, etc, thanks
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larryb
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Post by larryb on Nov 22, 2016 15:59:44 GMT -8
Thanks so much for sharing, checked out all your photos, very familiar and heartening that it looks so good!. Got down to the frame today, so we feel like we have reached a milestone, thanks again.
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