charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jan 19, 2018 13:10:24 GMT -8
And if you ever do end up using linseed oil (boiled or otherwise), don't toss those oil soaked rags into the waste bin together. The curing process will generate enough heat to ignite the rags. Many woodworking shops have burned down due to this.
I always lay the rags out individually in the middle of a concrete floor which allows enough air flow through them so that they cure without generating that much heat.
And yes, BLO still has it's uses. And if you read the ingredients you'll find that may other finishes contain raw or boiled linseed oil.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jan 19, 2018 11:24:41 GMT -8
Are they doing good repairs and lifting the skins?? If that's Tim Heintz's place, you can bet that the important things are done right. I don't have first hand experience with his work, but photos of his facilities & the work that he's produced along with his extensive knowledge of vintage campers says that he's the real deal when it comes to restoration & repair. Charlie Save
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Post by charliemyers on Jan 11, 2018 4:38:18 GMT -8
I wonder if lightly drawing over the VIN with something like sidewalk chalk would help the digits stand out more (after a little wire brushing & maybe fine sandpaper has been used)? I haven't tried it, but that thought just came to mind. And maybe somebody has already brought that up in the past.
Charlie
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jan 7, 2018 4:45:57 GMT -8
Can you post a pic of your LED bulbs? I’m inclined to suspect the bulbs as well.
5W / 12V = .417 amps so 14 gauge wire can easily handle the current.
How many bulbs are you talking about? Does it do this with just one bulb? And when you say that they flicker “real fast”, just how fast? Slow enough to notice but too fast to count? Couple times a second? Is it a consistent flicker or does it vary?
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Dec 13, 2017 10:19:57 GMT -8
Like Ross and BW, I have the Porter Cable as well. Love it.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Dec 13, 2017 9:47:41 GMT -8
Hi Kim, I'd suggest posting the VIN in this thread: Shasta VIN Model DatabaseRoss can give you good information regarding the year. Add a picture of the camper and I'm sure someone can help with identifying the model. Charlie
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Dec 1, 2017 9:49:04 GMT -8
You've got to be kidding me!!! I just tossed out the original 12" brake plates from my '64 Streamline less than a week ago. The only thing they needed was those magnets. I'd replaced them with aftermarket plates a year ago, and those old ones were just consuming precious space.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 16, 2017 17:45:58 GMT -8
Yes, and I've seen other early 60's Compacts on the net (some here on VTT I think) that have the short chassis that ends immediately behind the axle. From there to the rear it's just 2x4ish lumber.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Oct 11, 2017 8:24:20 GMT -8
So was your chassis full length or did you add the extra steel to the rear? I have a '61 Compact that has the chassis that ends right behind the axle, and a '64 Compact that has the full length chassis.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 13, 2017 6:35:04 GMT -8
Thanks vikx! I really appreciate the confirmation and additional info!
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 12, 2017 7:56:41 GMT -8
I'm installing new propane lines on my '61 Compact, and plan to remove the gas light which leaves only the stove/oven that will need propane. The propane tank is mounted in the triangle formed by the frame. I know that usually black iron pipe is used for the runs under the camper, but would that be necessary in this case? It would only be about a 12" - 16" length before running the copper vertically up to the stove. Should I just run copper the full length and protect it with something where it runs under the camper? And I'm planning to use this regulator attaching it directly to the tank: Mr. Heater Two Stage RegulatorI assume that I'd connect the regulator to the pipe/tubing with a rubber flex hose? Thoughts and ideas appreciated. Thanks, Charlie
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 11, 2017 17:34:29 GMT -8
Yep, now that I look at it closer, one terminal is marked "Bat" and the other is marked "AUX" just as you say. Thanks!
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 9, 2017 17:29:38 GMT -8
For anyone else that might be wondering, apparently the copper terminal connects to the battery (or "source") side, and the load connects to the other terminal.
Charlie
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 9, 2017 9:31:18 GMT -8
Got the counter top and splash installed in the 66 Super Shasta... Larry, Did you happen to video that install and (hopefully) plan to post it on your Youtube channel? I hope to soon make & install a back splash in my '61 Compact. Charlie Save
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 9, 2017 9:01:23 GMT -8
I bought a 30 amp self resetting breaker to put in the 12V side between the battery and the 12V distribution fuse box. One of the studs on the breaker is brass colored, while the other is silver. Does it matter which side connects to the battery and which goes to the fuse panel? The breaker arrived with zero instructions.
Thanks! Charlie
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