ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jan 18, 2018 16:10:07 GMT -8
I came across a post on Facebook where some trailer owners were talking about soaking dry framing with linseed oil to preserve it.
I’ve never heard of this before and wondered if it’s valid or just one more backwards approach for people trying to avoid replacing the framing?
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Post by bigbill on Jan 18, 2018 16:31:14 GMT -8
Years ago people finished wood with boiled linseed oil. When I was a little kid I helped my granddad finish counter tops with multiple coats of linseed oil it gave them a nice water proof finish to a point. Modern finishing materials has ruled linseed oil obsolete. My parents had a 1946 International KB5 bus converted to a motorhome and it had the counters finished with boiled linseed oil. It also had a three door ice box and a three burner gas cook stove. We were traveling in style. I loved it we didn't even stop to eat sometimes, mom would just slice some ham and fix us sandwiches and something to drink as we rode down the road. It only ran 55 mph wide open but that was faster than most traffic. We traveled all over the U.S.A. and Canada in that bus. At 45 to 50 mph it would get about 9 or 10 mpg.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jan 18, 2018 19:35:13 GMT -8
Dry or decayed framing? I think dry solid framing that's sealed from leaks doesn't need it. I've used bamboo oil to stain birch with good results but it soaks very deeply. Which makes me wonder it linseed oil on framing will (unless you're very neat) soak into (and maybe through) the birch. I guess you could experiment with scrap pieces. If you do, let us know how it worked out. -- Bigbill, I'm surprised you got 10mpg in a 1946 International bus.   |
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turbodaddy
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Post by turbodaddy on Jan 18, 2018 19:51:10 GMT -8
I've used boiled linseed oil on old dried out window frames, prior to re-puttying them. Can't really say if it helps. It is just what the old timer's say to do. I've done it at least 3 times in the last 15 years...I wonder what would have happened if I hadn't? I just don't know. If you are really serious about treating "rotted" wood vs. replacing it...I'd suggest looking into products like West System epoxy. In some applications, thinned with acetone, it can penetrate the wood fibers and produce a framing member stronger than the original. All depends on the application.
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Post by vikx on Jan 18, 2018 21:23:33 GMT -8
My mom had her antiques redone in boiled linseed oil and they are beautiful.
I've used linseed oil on our harness leather with good results. The trouble is, it is HIGHLY flammable. I'm guessing because it isn't boiled? The leather isn't flammable that I know of, but the oil is. I keep it in a lidded bucket for safety.
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jan 18, 2018 22:49:03 GMT -8
Years ago people finished wood with boiled linseed oil. When I was a little kid I helped my granddad finish counter tops with multiple coats of linseed oil it gave them a nice water proof finish to a point. Modern finishing materials has ruled linseed oil obsolete. My parents had a 1946 International KB5 bus converted to a motorhome and it had the counters finished with boiled linseed oil. It also had a three door ice box and a three burner gas cook stove. We were traveling in style. I loved it we didn't even stop to eat sometimes, mom would just slice some ham and fix us sandwiches and something to drink as we rode down the road. It only ran 55 mph wide open but that was faster than most traffic. We traveled all over the U.S.A. and Canada in that bus. At 45 to 50 mph it would get about 9 or 10 mpg. We have something in common. My parents did the same, only in the 1970’s. Blue bird school bus. Same kind of good memories.  |
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ladywendolyn
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Post by ladywendolyn on Jan 18, 2018 22:51:26 GMT -8
Thanks for the feedback. I’m replacing all rotted wood but the remaining wood is almost 70 years old... just thinking it could use some moisture.. but then again I’d hate to see my trailer spontaneously combust on a hot day!!
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Post by bigbill on Jan 19, 2018 9:07:36 GMT -8
As I stated above in my opinion linseed oil is a thing of the past, much better products are available today. As for the mpg on the old kb5 you have to remember it was only driven 45 to 50 mph. That was highway speed back then. The days before the Interstates were built.
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RinTin
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Post by RinTin on Jan 19, 2018 10:35:28 GMT -8
Do some research on the tendency of linseed oil to mold in damp environments. It has it's uses but this isn't one of them IMHO.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jan 19, 2018 13:10:24 GMT -8
And if you ever do end up using linseed oil (boiled or otherwise), don't toss those oil soaked rags into the waste bin together. The curing process will generate enough heat to ignite the rags. Many woodworking shops have burned down due to this.
I always lay the rags out individually in the middle of a concrete floor which allows enough air flow through them so that they cure without generating that much heat.
And yes, BLO still has it's uses. And if you read the ingredients you'll find that may other finishes contain raw or boiled linseed oil.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 19, 2018 15:34:23 GMT -8
The first thing anyone needs to do is quit reading posts about vintage trailers on FB. There is SOOOO much misinformation on there it's unreal.
Second thing is to remember what I've always said about treating framing so it will last longer. Just build the trailer so it doesn't leak. And as far as the bottom is concerned, there are other ways to treat that wood but if the wood is completely sealed and moisture does get in through screw or nails holes it won't have a way to get out. In my opinion it's better if the exposed wood can breath and drain. Wood only rots if the moisture is trapped.
A 2000 year old method of wood preservation is to burn the outside. Yes I said burn it. Use a propane torch. Then lightly wire brush the loose charred material off. Moisture will not penetrate but if moisture somehow does get in there it can still leach out.
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Post by vikx on Jan 19, 2018 21:36:10 GMT -8
Well said, Larry. Wood needs to BREATHE.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2018 21:48:16 GMT -8
I agree...and Larry's comment BUILD (or rebuild) THE TRAILER SO IT NEVER LEAKS.
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 20, 2018 7:21:16 GMT -8
Hi Friends, So, to confirm, are Larry and Vikx supporting leaving the floor underside and wood blocking all bare? No paint? I am currently building a new floor and I was going to paint it underneath for protection, but now, maybe not. I do understand the leaving it natural thing. When I was on a pop up forum, many supported leaving the floor unpainted to breath also. Granted, it was MDF...even. My current pop up, a '85 has a sheet metal steel floor, so who cares with that one. I live in So Cal where it almost never rains. They even made a song about it, it's so true. The only time my trailer might be towed in the rain would be after I was dead and buried and my wife would have sold it.  Cheers, Rod |
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