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Post by Teachndad on Jan 17, 2024 20:46:12 GMT -8
David, Take a look at this restoration thread. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/4148/1965-aloha-project?page=1 It's highly detailed and one I have gone to often over the years for reference. In the restoration, he actually goes for (I think it was) Linoleum for a flooring material, not the more original but expensive Marmoleum. So, there are other options. Get a cup of coffee or a drink of choice and sit down and read through Greg's thorough restoration. He starts out raising the body off the frame. It was a minor trend some people including me were doing at the time. He switches gears and goes to a more traditional method and removes the walls in what becomes a frame off restoration. Hope this helps. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 17, 2024 7:10:10 GMT -8
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 16, 2024 12:10:15 GMT -8
I asked about the registration because there are stories of folks who bought a vintage trailer without paperwork on it and could not register it for a variety of reasons when they went to their DMV. Personally, I have had two such trailers and I had to be creative to solve the issue - both were nailbiters. So, if you or anyone else did all this work to restore the trailer and then you find out it can't be registered, you/they are stuck with a trailer that can't be towed and after investing time, money and energy into a project it can be a surprise. But in your case, having plans to use as your office (ohhh yah baby!) I will welcome you to the Work in Your Trailer club or WYTC, LOL. There are those of us who ENJOY spending time inside sitting and sipping on a drink of choice while working away in our warm cozy mantuary or she shed. Ask just ask pfriesen or newin62 or just about anyone who hangs around the board. They will know! It sounds like you did your research as well and don't anticipate any issues towards registration. Don't worry about what kind of cushions you put in your trailer - foam or rebuilding the current frames. Make it your own. You are saving a trailer from the Earth - Really. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 16, 2024 11:38:24 GMT -8
For what it's worth here's just one feedback on the amber I can offer. I used it on one of my trailers for the entry door interior panel and it ended up being way more orange colored than I would have liked and that was even after making a sample. Others love amber. In retrospect, my sample was just too small. It could have been a lack of experience as well or user error, LOL.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 16, 2024 7:14:09 GMT -8
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 16, 2024 7:07:38 GMT -8
Here is a picture for aide in discussion.
Someone with more experience can answer the question. Are you wanting to rebuild all the cabinets in the trailer? Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 16, 2024 6:54:46 GMT -8
Your trailer is very cool! ooooohhhh, look at the right angles in the wall construction!. I really like the lines of it with a mixture of angles and a curve on the roofline. I like the lowrider look, but it's unfortunately, not practical, lol with those small wheels and sagging springs. That's a nice size for two people to move around in. I am also digging on the checkerboard on the dinette table. I gave a pause when I was looking at the photos. I am impressed with the condition of the dinette cushions. Are they as nice in person as they look in the photos? It's gonna look great when you are done with her. Personally, I would like to see the original paint scheme as a repaint and it will pop. Is it registered in any way and if not do you foresee any issues with getting it titled. I would hate to see you do all this work and then not be able to title it. Down here in the states, some states are easy to work with and others are a pain in the neck. Finally, what's the back story on your trailer? Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 14, 2024 21:28:55 GMT -8
Hello and Welcome! Well, it sounds like you are well on your way and have accomplished quite a bit! Thank you for wanting to share your journey with us. We don't get too many folks with vintage Canadian trailers here, but the build concepts are more or less the same. Pictures are always appreciated. Here is a link for how to post pix on the forum. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/7276/add-photos-hosted-flickr-tutoria Once you get the Flickr account set up, then it only takes a minute or two to add photos to your posts. I know you are hungry for info on this trailer, but I have been here for over 10 years and this is not ringing any bells for me. There are also American built trailers that are also missing background information. We had hundreds of trailers produced during their hey day and production runs could have been less than a dozen or hundreds like Shasta. Sometimes there just isn't anything left to find. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 14, 2024 21:14:14 GMT -8
Thanks Vix and Peter. I was initially thinking the same as Peter – if it lasted this long, then why not leave it the same way, but once I got the wing boards in place, it became apparent that it will be necessary to reinforce the ends of the horizontal braces. The mounts for the hanging bunk are in this area as well as the side of the bed frame. Today after yet more missteps, a common occurrence for me , I was able to tie in all the boards in the wing. Note: All wing boards are oversized and have yet to be trimmed. Below is the current representative for the progress I made today. I have some more questions below for anyone to answer. Color legend:Short Purple lines are pocket holes. i.e. three lines is three pocket holes Dark red zig zag lines show where there is actually no stud. Red open rectangles are where backer boards need to be placed to support the sides of the bed frame. When the image is magnified, you can see several small arrows written on the paneling that indicate holes in the paneling. I marked these years ago when as a reminder when I would get to this point. These were from the screws of the bed frame – missed their mark! The bed needs more support. Blue open vertical rectangle marks the possible location of an additional short stud. Is this redundant once the backer board(s) are added for the bed frame or an added necessity? Green and orange circles represent gaps. The green gap is a little less than 1/8”, the orange gap, is wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. Should I glue in a wedge in both gaps and then pocket hole to the wing board through the wedges Or sister a piece of lumber underneath each horizontal brace so that it can have a tight butt joint at the wing board? I hope those are clear enough. Thanks, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 14, 2024 9:00:06 GMT -8
Let's see.🤔. What new adjective can I bring to the table?
SPECTACULAR!
We got an unused sewing machine stored in the backroom earmarked for Rods Curtain Factory. Brilliant minds think alike 😆
Cheers 👊,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 12, 2024 23:28:42 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I need to finish up the rear wing on the streetside wall of my 57 Westerner. The image below shows the missing boards of the radius. As originally manufactured, the ends of the horizontal bracing in the wall were not butted up against the radius boards - no staples in any ends of the horizontal bracing. Below is a picture of a clamped on sample of a new rough cut radius. The clamped board is a tad wider than what was there originally. Should I make sure during the installation of the new wing boards that they are connected with pocket holes or leave them unfastened as originally built? Obviously not fastening them together to create a butt joint is less work. To fasten them will take some engineering. I hope that makes sense. Thanks, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 12, 2024 23:05:13 GMT -8
Hi Friends, 2 months since my last update: I have been working on rebuilding the streetside wall but especially replacing the sill boards. I sistered one stud near the window and replaced some of the window framing. Here is the before image I am keeping the lumber that is still good. Some had some blackening, but they were not weakened. So, the wall is Frankesteined together with old and new fasteners and lumber. I first replaced the lower front radius board and then moved to the right as I replaced the sill boards. It turned out, I had a draft piece from the same location left over from the curbside wall and I flipped it and it was a perfect match for the streetside wall. That's what you see in the image. Reduce, reuse, and recycle. I had to work on the wall upright for a variety of reasons. I lifted the front half of the wall a few inches for clearance down below. When I reached the rear half, I supported the wall with a stack of blocks at the fender well opening. Again to gaining clearance and work space. The fenderwell opening will be cut out once the skin is mounted I will admit, this method for working on the bottom of the wall is unorthodox, but it worked. I had a clamped a 6 foot long 2 x 2 piece of lumber to sections of the wall periodically as a stiffener for the wall. This streetside wall has been easier to work on than the curbside – no doorway to contend with and the original lumber had more butted joints which made replacement a easier. Maybe my work was represented by a learning curve? This was the best picture to show the progress "moving across" towards the rear. The last sill board (as seen as brown above) was “a patch” of sorts I had installed over 5 years ago. The original sill board had nearly disintegrated so I had to screw in a temporary piece of lumber that was too shallow and too short. It was a scrap at the time. It did its job until today when I installed the new sill board. The two clamps are clamped to two temporary studs to support that last sill board. PThis is how far I got today. I may take a break tomorrow to work on one of my other trailers. The rear radius boards in the wings will need to be installed next. I will post a question regarding this next step in one of our forums. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 9, 2024 7:32:13 GMT -8
This appears to be sold. I can't find the link anymore, but the photo is still linked to ebay at the moment, so Me thinks it was sold. That entry door is unusual. Just noticed. Usually we see the x's or diamond pattern. Rectangles must have been in.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 3, 2024 21:25:08 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Another roof protected trailer like this one - not as nice as the Smokey (same seller) I just posted about. I wish it was closer. IMHO, it wouild make a good restoration candidate for someone who wants a trailer with a bathroom. While not a favored canned ham size, it could be a nice trailer and in true Kenskil fashion - large windows. But then again, it might have to belong to the More family. More Time More Energy More Space More Money The ceiling seems to have been protected, but several of the windows are broken or cracked and water streams have made their mark below the windows(no pun intended). Looks to be heavily lived in though. House paint on the exterior... You decide. In So, Cal it would get gobbled up at this price. It's on a Buy it Now. Reserve? Cheers, Rod Is it Is it me, or is that curbside front corner sagging?
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 3, 2024 21:08:13 GMT -8
I see another one for sale in Seattle for 6500. I am pretty sure this is the one Tom saw on CL for $6500 back on August 9. Now on ebay for $4900 as a Buy it now. Tom can probably confirm. It's got that home made sun shade over the back window. If I am not mistaken, it's 4 months later and it hasn't sold. link
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