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Post by Teachndad on Jan 3, 2018 16:22:43 GMT -8
Hi Friends, What is the consensus on changing the seam configuration on the floor? I am debating this on my 57 Westerner. The idea came from Rin Tin in his Aloha restoration thread. I believe his seam position was more thought out. I am just swapping pieces. I explain below. Below is the original configuration. The smallest piece of flooring went under the bed in the storage compartment. Another seam is near the doorway where you first walk into the trailer. The white pole in the picture points to the end of the front curbside floor joist that ends at the wheel well. 4 to 5 inches to the right of the end of the pole is where the doorway would appear. So, that seam is near the doorway. Originally, the floor seams were reinforced from below with 6" wide pieces of plywood stapled upward into the floor. They were also glued. Seam configuration #1 The other configuration has me switching the the small piece to the front. I placed a dinette bench, to help with the orientation. The seam that was near the doorway is now almost to the bed wall near where the sink would be. Seam configuration #2 Thoughts on moving the seam from the original position? Thanks, Rod
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shastatom
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I can chase women or fix campers, I choose to fix what I understand........... campers.
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Shasta 54,57 1500 58 Airflyte
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Post by shastatom on Jan 3, 2018 16:43:14 GMT -8
I wouldn't put the gap at the door because you have a lot of traffic and weight going in and out on that spot unless you do some beefing up of the under framing. If you have another type of board you need to put under that plywood then stagger those seams.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Jan 4, 2018 13:01:33 GMT -8
Spline the sheets together whichever way you decide to go or use a biscuit joiner and put them together that way. I used a router with a wing cutter on it to mill a 1/4" groove into each seam and glued in some 1/4" Baltic birch spline material ripped down on the tablesaw. If you didn't already have your plywood I would have suggested using T&G which would have accomplished the same thing.
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Post by danrhodes on Jan 4, 2018 16:19:49 GMT -8
In my build, I lined up the seams with the frame crossmembers. This way, you can always have full support under every seam by adding bracing between the wood joists.
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 5, 2018 7:14:53 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Thanks for the responses. The plywood floor is really thin limiting what you can do with it. I am going to support the seams with patch pieces underneath screwed and glued, much like what was there originally. The original floor was only 1/2" thick. So, I copied what was original. I will block above the cross members up to the bottom of the floor as Dan had suggested. I decided to use the second seam configuration or #2. The nice thing about moving the seam there was that the cuts were really easy. I just cut off a corner on the two largest pieces. The cuts were straighter and cleaner than the original, LOL. Front of the trailer floor is to the left. Excuse the messy and dirty conditions of the work space. This is in a room that will soon be renovated and converted into an apartment. Then, I will lose the work space. Images below show the press fit of the floor.
Here is the press fit floor on the trailer frame with my helper and floor tester. He just jumped up on my nice immaculate pre-sanded plywood with his dirty paws. Ohhh well. I think he likes it. Cheers. Rod
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2018 11:08:00 GMT -8
The helper would like it even more if you took the trailer for a test drive as is. They just love the wind blowing through their hair...
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jan 5, 2018 12:59:21 GMT -8
The helper would like it even more if you took the trailer for a test drive as is. They just love the wind blowing through their hair... Teachndad is the only person I know of who took just the flatbed part of a vintage trailer to a rally. There's a link here somewhere showing his set up at the rally.
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Post by Teachndad on Jan 5, 2018 20:21:19 GMT -8
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