ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Oct 8, 2017 4:34:11 GMT -8
O I admit to knowing next to nothing about propane fridges other than what I've read here.
Currently in the information gathering stage of my camper design and have a few questions about venting. Most of what I've seen shows a bottom vent for air intake and burner access and a roof vent for exhaust. There's some that have a second side vent for exhaust which I'd prefer
Is one better than the other? And just as important why?
Is the ductwork on the inside wall or actually in the wall? If in the wall is it usually finished with tinwork or just the skin and studs? Any baffles involved? I'd imagine it's tinned in case of any flare up but maybe not.
Most post here show the finished product, but I haven't found anything showing in process work, anyone got a link to such? I'm leery of just looking things up on the internet due to the proliferation of just bad wrong information.
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shastatom
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Post by shastatom on Oct 8, 2017 6:21:05 GMT -8
From the research I did I used 2 side vents. Nothing I looked at in the new campers I looked at with 2 sided vents had tin. They used a rubber type paint or something to help with moisture issues. Also you may have to add a baffle if depending on the depth and how much room is between the wall and the back of fridge. The top vent normally sits above the top of the fridge from what I remember of the install instructions. so depending on where that leaves you it may be just as easy to go out the roof. If you look at this link vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/8297/shasta-camper-restoration-rebuild-begins?page=5and work your way up some pages you will see if you zoom in on some of the images how the fridge progressed. |
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Oct 8, 2017 8:16:35 GMT -8
Tom you seem to be the answer man today.
So basically the wall can be open behind the fridge? If so I can just plan on putting an exhaust vent near the roofline, the intake vent near the base of the fridge platform (roughly 18-24" off the floor)and perhaps an interior filler panel to cover the difference between the fridge top and ceiling to box in the vent. I'm plannin on at least a 6'8" ceiling. I'd like to plan a larger cabinet from the get go in case the donor fridge doesn't work or dies though it seems that most are the same width just taller for more volume. That way I'm not stuck looking for a good used in a particular size or having to shell out for a new one $$$
Things break, might as well plan for replacemnt from the get go.
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shastatom
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Post by shastatom on Oct 8, 2017 16:37:44 GMT -8
Your bottom vend must be at or below the bottom of the fridge. Go to the domentic web site and look at the install instructions.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Oct 11, 2017 11:27:21 GMT -8
I'll second the last reply. The Norcold I'm getting for example has a requirement given in square inches for vent in the access door and upper wall vent. They alao want a baffle on top to direct heat to the upper vent. Look at website for specs and directions.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 11, 2017 11:32:52 GMT -8
The better you vent the fridge, the longer it will last. Top vent is the best way to go. You still need the lower side wall intake vent.
If you are using the two side vent method you might want to think about installing an automatic fridge vent fan to the mix. It will only come on at certain temps so it will save your on board batter life. You can get them at E-Trailer on line. They work great.
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Oct 14, 2017 3:32:56 GMT -8
I'm aware I'll need two vents. And mounting the lower vent higher than desired will hamper venting. Also makes burner service difficult.
My reference to height was about the bottom of the fridge, I'd like to avoid having to get on my knees to reach the bottom shelf. So a platform to support the fridge and placing the vent at the same level is the plan.
I'm not sure what brand of fridge I'll end up with. Or even the actual dimensions yet. But from browsing it appears that most have the same width and depth, the height varies depending on capacity. I'd like to plan on the largest size since it would be easier to fill in above the fridge to accept smaller units.
Larry, I'd really prefer to avoid roof penetration as much as possible hence the side vents.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 14, 2017 6:48:06 GMT -8
I'm aware I'll need two vents. And mounting the lower vent higher than desired will hamper venting. Also makes burner service difficult. My reference to height was about the bottom of the fridge, I'd like to avoid having to get on my knees to reach the bottom shelf. So a platform to support the fridge and placing the vent at the same level is the plan. I'm not sure what brand of fridge I'll end up with. Or even the actual dimensions yet. But from browsing it appears that most have the same width and depth, the height varies depending on capacity. I'd like to plan on the largest size since it would be easier to fill in above the fridge to accept smaller units. Larry, I'd really prefer to avoid roof penetration as much as possible hence the side vents. That seems to be a major concern for a lot of people. Water DOES get into the top vents if you are traveling in the rain. But water also gets in the side vents when traveling in the rain also. So to me it's a matter of making the expensive refrigerator last as long as possible. The water that does get into the vents does not set long before drying so rot takes a very long time to occur. I think it's a very good idea to use the fan if you do the side vents and it even mentions that in the directions. |
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on Oct 14, 2017 15:49:05 GMT -8
Well here's a thought, maybe way off base but...
What about leaving the Wall vent shaft open all the way through? I mean down through the floor? I'd still need a vent grate or panel near the bottom of the fridge for burner access and maintenance but at least any rain that gets in could pass all the way through.
Or if that seems extreme, what about lining the vent shaft and placing a drip pan and drain hose at the bottom?
Am I just over thinking this?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 14, 2017 20:46:02 GMT -8
The instructions show the exact dimensions and drawings for the different configurations that will work for your particular refrigerator. I would suggest that you stick with those for best results... Norcold and Dometic are very much the same in designs, only the dimensions are different...
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Post by vikx on Oct 14, 2017 21:21:07 GMT -8
I agree with Larry. Follow the install instructions to the letter on whatever brand you decide to go with.
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shastatom
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Post by shastatom on Oct 19, 2017 15:44:41 GMT -8
Remember the other reason to have the vent hole lower then the unit is because gas is heavier and it will leave the area and not blow up on you. I hope.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Oct 19, 2017 16:52:56 GMT -8
Remember the other reason to have the vent hole lower then the unit is because gas is heavier and it will leave the area and not blow up on you. I hope. The directions always point towards having the lower vent bottom even with the bottom of the fridge. |
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 24, 2017 17:35:18 GMT -8
In my '76 there was no ducting, or special treatment of the wall behind the fridge. But the fridge was mounted up high, in a cabinet that has the furnace in the bottom, with a drawer in between. So the fridge was close to the roof vent, which no doubt helps develop a draft.
If you want to be able to change fridge size in the future, you could build the cabinet in such a way that it is easy to remove the face frame, then you could just crank out another face if you need to.
Make sure whatever fridge you get will fit through the door, mine had only about 1/8" of room on each side.
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