mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Feb 19, 2017 17:13:45 GMT -8
The Forester is going to looks nice and shiny when its done. cant wait to see. nccamper do you have any close ups photos on how you taped the Z on the vent? on the 1500 |
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mobiltec
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I make mistakes so you don't have to...
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Feb 19, 2017 18:02:23 GMT -8
Wow I can't believe how touchy it is for weather... Lucky for me I will have a controlled environment in my shop.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 19, 2017 19:53:17 GMT -8
Wow I can't believe how touchy it is for weather... Lucky for me I will have a controlled environment in my shop. Very touchy to the weather. From what I can tell, spray at the low end of the range and you'll gain time. Spray at the high end and you will barely get around the camper before the first side dries. Spray over the range and they say "the paint will dry on the way to the substrate and will not flow out right on the surface". One reason for orange peel. And if there is pollen in the air the HVLP gun picks it up on the way to the aluminum. A controlled environment will make a huge difference. -- Mel, This is how I tape the stripe. 1/2" fine line tape top and bottom with blue painter's tape between.  The Z over the vent is just following the line as best as possible. Not as difficult as I expected. I start by taping the front and rear. The sides come after and are driven by the placement of the front and rear. If you want a full explanation I'll include it in the main project thread when I'm finished. It's basically a math problem. |
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 25, 2017 7:04:14 GMT -8
This is a great thread and I LOVE all the detail, the more the better. Thank you for taking the time to explain everything! I am eagerly awaiting your next thread.
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Post by bigbill on Feb 25, 2017 11:09:40 GMT -8
Things to remember when doing a paint job.
Temperature, humidity, dust, water and hurrying can all ruin a paint job.
Moisture in your air supply is another problem, but it can be eliminated at low cost if you remember a few simple things. First thing to remember is air coming out of a compressor is hot and the air must be cooled before water condenses so if you want an inexpensive air dryer in your shop run at least 100 feet of metal air line from the compressor to your water separator this will allow air to cool and water to condense, if not it will condense in your air hose and make places in your paint. I build my own water separators from old breathable oxygen tanks, usually aluminum, I get them for free from suppliers because they are cheaper to replace than have re-certified for high pressure. I install a ball valve in the top then invert it and drill and tap two holes in the bottom. One for air in and one for air out, the tanks I use are about 30 inches high or so. Next I build a bracket to mount it on the wall with the ball valve at the bottom to drain condensation as needed. These work far better than any one I have ever bought.
Now that you have good clean dry air, buy the paint of your choice but keep in mind that many products are designed to be used in a vary small temperature range so make certain you are using products to match the conditions of the day you are painting. To warm drys to fast looks dull not shine, to cold drys to slow and develops runs/sages. A final reminder a paint job is NOT any better than the prep job.
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