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Post by danrhodes on Nov 14, 2016 13:02:47 GMT -8
My coupler has a sad chain welded to the bottom that I will cut off.  There is already a bolt on one side that could take a chain, but I was thinking about enlarging the two holes in the frame right behind the coupler to mount the chains.  A final option might be a continuous chain that I could bolt using the large hole behind the jack? Maybe use the existing bolt on the side and loop it over the top, then cross it under? Anyone using a solid chain for both hooks?  www.amazon.com/CR-Brophy-Machine-Works-TCL3/dp/B004OCW828/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1479157024&sr=8-21&keywords=tow+safety+chainsI assume the heavier 5/16" chains are preferred... |
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 14, 2016 15:12:11 GMT -8
Half way on the chain. Push a link up through the hole. Put a bolt through the link, attach a nut to it, making it sort of like a T. That should hold it, if a 3/8ths bolt will fit through the link it should be plenty heavy enough.
Use a grade 8 bolt.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 14, 2016 15:14:57 GMT -8
Could also cut/drill two round holes large enough for the links to fall through then, use a diegrinder and make a slot forwards of each hole, drop the chain through the holes and lock it into the slots.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 14, 2016 15:49:01 GMT -8
Half way on the chain. Push a link up through the hole. Put a bolt through the link, attach a nut to it, making it sort of like a T. That should hold it, if a 3/8ths bolt will fit through the link it should be plenty heavy enough. Use a grade 8 bolt. Interesting... Have you done it this way? The hole seems small, but I haven't bought my chain to test it out |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 14, 2016 16:35:20 GMT -8
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 14, 2016 16:54:46 GMT -8
That's the post I remembered, but couldn't find. The looping around the jack looks easy |
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 14, 2016 17:48:30 GMT -8
Half way on the chain. Push a link up through the hole. Put a bolt through the link, attach a nut to it, making it sort of like a T. That should hold it, if a 3/8ths bolt will fit through the link it should be plenty heavy enough. Use a grade 8 bolt. Interesting... Have you done it this way? The hole seems small, but I haven't bought my chain to test it out I have not done it that way before, I have seen it done. The trailer had never come loose so it didn`t get a good testing. I do not see why it would not work though. A grade 8 three eights bolt will hold a LOT. It takes a fairly large chain for a 3/8ths bolt to fit through a link. The idea of drilling the round hole then slotting off of it so that the link will just fit the slot is the way the Mt. D.O.T. hangs their snow plows. The steel is a lot thicker though.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 15, 2016 15:07:25 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Nov 15, 2016 20:28:58 GMT -8
Here is how NOT to do it....  The chain is the Reese 6-footer, later was cut and welded to the tongue just rear of the coupler. I still stand by the idea that welding is the only way to do this. |
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 15, 2016 21:02:55 GMT -8
Here is how NOT to do it.... The chain is the Reese 6-footer, later was cut and welded to the tongue just rear of the coupler. I still stand by the idea that welding is the only way to do this. Use that your chain? Also, how are you towing properly with a truck and straight hitch? |
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Nov 16, 2016 8:41:42 GMT -8
That is the Reese chain, which was cut and welded on. This photo was the very first time I pulled the camper out of the driveway around the block to test the new brakes and tires. I looped the chain so that it was there, but not much more.
The hitch is adjustable, but not over a very big range. I don't have any good photos of it, but with the Chevy, it set up really level. My Dodge seems to set higher, and the trailer is lower in the rear now. I have not gotten a drop bar yet for the hitch, but it is on my wish list.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 19, 2016 18:06:20 GMT -8
Got the Reese chain cut at Home Depot and used the Serro Scotty page as an example. Used M12, Grade 8 bolts and made sure the holes went through coupler and frame rails (one hole was there, just needed enlarging)  My old chain broke with a few good tugs.   |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 19, 2016 20:26:53 GMT -8
What Serro Scotty page did you use as an example? Home Depot carried M12, Grade 8 bolts? My Home Depot never has much in grade 5 or 8.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 19, 2016 21:03:18 GMT -8
What Serro Scotty page did you use as an example? Home Depot carried M12, Grade 8 bolts? My Home Depot never has much in grade 5 or 8. From your link  www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/safetychains.htmlThey keep the good stuff in the little drawers. They are usually a disaster, but patience and a helper pays off. The metric stuff uses class vs grade, but apparently class 10.9 is equivalent to sae grade 8. The home depot app is great for finding stuff, aisle and bay. I paid nearly as much for the hardware as I did for the chain.  |
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 20, 2016 5:20:08 GMT -8
A new store opened here, "Fasten All".
Very reasonable prices. f I need to go buy bolts I usually get them by the bag.
The Ace store here is off their rocker on their prices, grade 8 is even worse.
I went there as I needed some bushings for a 64 J.D. 110 Mower I was restoring. I thought as long as I am here I`d get the grade 8 bolts too. 1/2 inch by four inch were over four bucks a bolt. I went to Fasten All and got the same exact made in china bolts, what I needed and a dozen more for less than I would have paid for one grade 8 bolt, the grade 8 washer and a self locking grade 8 nuts at Our ace hardware store.
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