mrmarty51
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1972 HOMEMADE
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 20, 2016 5:23:24 GMT -8
Another thing to keep on mind when selecting bolts. The grade 8 bolts has a lot greater clamping pressure than the grade 5 and 2 bolts does. The grade 8 bolts might also snap where a grade 5 will bend. I am not saying either way if the grade 8 bolts would be better in this situation or the grade 5. I just don`t know.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 20, 2016 6:25:55 GMT -8
A new store opened here, "Fasten All". Very reasonable prices. f I need to go buy bolts I usually get them by the bag. The Ace store here is off their rocker on their prices, grade 8 is even worse. I went there as I needed some bushings for a 64 J.D. 110 Mower I was restoring. I thought as long as I am here I`d get the grade 8 bolts too. 1/2 inch by four inch were over four bucks a bolt. I went to Fasten All and got the same exact made in china bolts, what I needed and a dozen more for less than I would have paid for one grade 8 bolt, the grade 8 washer and a self locking grade 8 nuts at Our ace hardware store. These weren't all that cheap either, about $2 each I think. The total including a new hitch pin was about the same cost as the $15 safety chain itself.
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mrmarty51
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1972 HOMEMADE
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 20, 2016 12:11:19 GMT -8
A new store opened here, "Fasten All". Very reasonable prices. f I need to go buy bolts I usually get them by the bag. The Ace store here is off their rocker on their prices, grade 8 is even worse. I went there as I needed some bushings for a 64 J.D. 110 Mower I was restoring. I thought as long as I am here I`d get the grade 8 bolts too. 1/2 inch by four inch were over four bucks a bolt. I went to Fasten All and got the same exact made in china bolts, what I needed and a dozen more for less than I would have paid for one grade 8 bolt, the grade 8 washer and a self locking grade 8 nuts at Our ace hardware store. These weren't all that cheap either, about $2 each I think. The total including a new hitch pin was about the same cost as the $15 safety chain itself. Last purchase I made from Fasten All was for carriage bolts, self locking nuts and washers. A bag of the 50 X 5/16ths nuts, 50 washers, a bag of 50 X 2-1/2" 5/16ths carriage bolts and 24 3-1/2" X 5/16ths carriage bolts and the price was about $25.00.
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Nov 21, 2016 5:16:04 GMT -8
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mel
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Post by mel on Nov 21, 2016 5:25:24 GMT -8
I just realized the eye hooks bolted on are pretty far back, is that even going to be safe to have my safety chains that far back?
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Nov 21, 2016 5:44:14 GMT -8
I just realized the eye hooks bolted on are pretty far back, is that even going to be safe to have my safety chains that far back? quote]That should work, as long as the chains can be hooked short enough so that the trailers tongue does not hit the ground if it comes disconnected. Ir may though cause the trailer tongue to get a ways under the tow unit. If I was going to use the I-bolts like those I would weld the ends of the circle shut to make them more secure. I remember when people would cut through the links so that if the trailer did come loose it would break away from the tow wehicle. I can not imagine what a disaster that would have caused.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 21, 2016 6:39:52 GMT -8
mel I considered attaching my chains in back of the coupler, but bigbill convinced me otherwise. If the trailer does come loose, the tongue can rise pretty high with chains that long, enough maybe to even bottom out in the rear.
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Post by vikx on Nov 26, 2016 23:34:19 GMT -8
Mel, I'm seeing some suspicious lines on your tongue from the eye up and over. Have an experienced metal man check that out and possibly add bracing. Inspect carefully for cracks and metal break down. Something is not right...
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Nov 27, 2016 4:41:02 GMT -8
Mel, I'm seeing some suspicious lines on your tongue from the eye up and over. Have an experienced metal man check that out and possibly add bracing. Inspect carefully for cracks and metal break down. Something is not right... I think your talking about where the old coupler was taken off, and the new coupler doesn't sit as far back as the old one did? Or right above the eye I see that line, that is where a old propane holder sat, that was reall hard to get off. I will have them take a look just to be safe when I get my new spring put on thanks.
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Post by vikx on Nov 27, 2016 11:35:18 GMT -8
Yes, I'm talking about the eye; it appears you may have a flaw from the eye hole up and over the tongue. Better safe than sorry; glad you will have it inspected.
Also, it might be wise to install two new springs rather than just one. Trailers tend to sit high on the new spring side. Wonder how I know that??
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Nov 27, 2016 15:37:44 GMT -8
I think I would weld the safety chains underneath just at the rear of the coupler, and use the eyes to chain the propane tank down...anti-theft style. Or just chain the pitbull there... P.S. I do see the lines, and yes it should be inspected. I wonder if there was at one time a set of lifts for a weight-distribution hitch assembly hung there. It certainly does not seem necessary for such a small light trailer, but it seems just in the right spot to have been... rear of the propane rack here...
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mel
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Post by mel on Jul 8, 2017 14:28:03 GMT -8
Got the Reese chain cut at Home Depot and used the Serro Scotty page as an example. Used M12, Grade 8 bolts and made sure the holes went through coupler and frame rails (one hole was there, just needed enlarging) My old chain broke with a few good tugs. What did you use on the inside/underside of the coupler where we cant see?
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mel
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Post by mel on Jul 8, 2017 14:38:15 GMT -8
Also how long do you think the chains need to be? we will probably be using a 12" extension while towing.
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Post by danrhodes on Jul 8, 2017 14:48:14 GMT -8
Also how long do you think the chains need to be? we will probably be using a 12" extension while towing. There's a washer, lock washer and nut inside the frame rail. The last time I towed the chains looped back about halfway, so should still be ok with the extension, depending in your vehicle. Back up to the camper and see how a 3 foot length works...remember to account for crossing under the coupler.
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