nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Jun 2, 2015 6:00:30 GMT -8
Our Compact came with one chain attached under and behind the ball. This is obviously not enough. Some me sources online say wrap the chain around the hitch and don't drill holes for bolts as it weakens the frame. Others say drill bolt holes but not larger than a mid size chain link. Some say closer to the ball, others halfway back on the A frame. Any advice?
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Post by vintagebruce on Jun 2, 2015 8:57:54 GMT -8
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jun 2, 2015 15:05:04 GMT -8
Interesting idea. I didn't consider that one.
On a Shasta it would have to sit back on the curved part of the frame like the second photo. The straight part may block the hitch mechanism. I'll check tomorrow.
I guess most people drill through the frame without lose of strength?
Thanks.
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Post by bigbill on Jun 3, 2015 9:10:46 GMT -8
I would suggest never bolt safety chains to a trailer in a manor that applies the stress on the bolt. The best way is to loop the chains around the frame rails so that all of the impact stress of a break away is on the chain, not a Grade 2 hardware store bolt. BUT I do suggest putting a bolt through the chain to secure them from being stolen or lost. Your safety chains could save not only your trailer, but someones life. Use good chain with strong hooks not the dogs old leash.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jun 3, 2015 10:08:17 GMT -8
I would suggest never bolt safety chains to a trailer in a manor that applies the stress on the bolt. The best way is to loop the chains around the frame rails so that all of the impact stress of a break away is on the chain, not a Grade 2 hardware store bolt. BUT I do suggest putting a bolt through the chain to secure them from being stolen or lost. Your safety chains could save not only your trailer, but someones life. Use good chain with strong hooks not the dogs old leash. I wondered about the strength of the bolt. Even if the camper weighs only 1000 pound the force of it breaking loose at highway speeds would be brutal. Somebody else who owns a Compact said their camper also came with a welded loop under the hitch and a single chain. Maybe it came from the factory that way. It's not inspiring confidence in me.
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pathfinder3081
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1971 Shasta Loflyte
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 3, 2015 10:13:11 GMT -8
I am on the same page as Bigbill. Tensile strength on a bolt can vary greatly. Now a Clevis (w/Shank bolt) could be a lot heavier grade, drilled and anchored to the frame. But you want the pull to be centered to the tow rig if the ball and coupler ever fail you. I took the fast way and it's not the prettiest but it will keep her anchored to the rig. I bought it at Northern tool over in the trailer section. It's a "TOW SAFETY CHAIN" bagged with hardware. I went around my hitch post and under the ball hitch. The two chains are connected together with a link bolt as they past under the hitch. I marked up your pic abit to try and explain it, and for others who might be in the same perdicament... I trust that was OK..
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Jun 3, 2015 11:15:12 GMT -8
I marked up your pic abit to try and explain it, and for others who might be in the same predicament... I trust that was OK..
Wow, I'm impressed. Instructions and illustration. Excellent. I wonder if the crank post can handle the stress?
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pathfinder3081
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Post by pathfinder3081 on Jun 3, 2015 11:41:52 GMT -8
Lol.. at the angle it would. It wont bend it at the point no way. I think that it will help keep the coupler from driving into the pavement too.. off course that might not be a good thing.. You can check it out down at the Hiawassee.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jun 3, 2015 15:34:22 GMT -8
This is an area that may be controlled by required-equipment laws, which could vary state-to-state, and it may be wise to check with your DMV as to what is required for chains and their attachment.
Personally, and I stress "personally"... I am in the camp that believes the safest way to attach the chains is to have them separate, welded underneath the frame, far enough back to "catch" the hitch, and far enough apart to cross them underneath, in order to cradle the hitch if it ever were to pop loose. That is the only way of guaranteeing the hitch won't nose-dive into the pavement causing complete loss of control.
All of that being said, I too have the "one-chain" predicament with the SC. It was originally 2 chains, welded, and is one chain with a deformed hook, and the remains of one which has been broken off. I plan to have the chains replaced with new, and welded.
But, the fact that the Compacts may have been originally equipped with only one chain is an interesting tidbit. Sometimes it is hard to remember that, when these trailers were built, not everybody on the road was completely nuts, most roads were two-lane highways, and people just did not flip each other off and "road-rage" if you were not pulling a trailer 80 MPH just to get out of their way. Life was different. The lower weight of the Compact makes me believe that if the "normal" was a max of 45MPH or so, one chain would be sufficient.
Not so today of course. Sadly.
Wrapping the chain around the jack does not seem like the safest idea to me, but it should have sufficient strength at that point to support a catastrophic failure, although your jack may never be the same. I would advise lowering the weight of the tongue onto the chains only sometime, just to see how it would support if the hitch became "missing".
I know none of this answers the original question, best way to BOLT the chains on....Sorry if I got off topic.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 14, 2015 11:32:35 GMT -8
I was reading this topic and have an additional thought. Do not fasten the chains any farther back than just behind the trailers coupler. Longer chains can allow the tongue to rise way high allowing the rear of the trailer to make severe contact with the road and all kind of bad things can happen. If a trailer comes loose the first thing it will do is drop down and back then it will snap forward and up when the chains tighten. In case of a disconnected trailer I would gently apply the brakes when the tongue is in the down position this will cause trailer to stay with vehicle until you can get it stopped hopefully. Also shorter chains fastened close helps protect the rear of the tow vehicle. Years ago they used to fasten chains to front cross member of trailer frame, if you have this type of setup that is fine but secure the chains near the coupler by wrapping around or passing through an opening to prevent the tongue from raising up, then cross them under to keep from digging in.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Aug 14, 2015 11:57:20 GMT -8
Here is the original factory location on my SC, just behind the coupler, and just ahead of the jack, welded under the frame at the coupler. Or there is this.....
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Post by vikx on Aug 16, 2015 21:22:28 GMT -8
My, those are big BEEFY hooks...
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Post by danrhodes on Aug 17, 2015 8:02:19 GMT -8
On the other side of the equation, where do you guys fasten the chains on your tow vehicle? On my Tacoma, there are just two little openings in the hitch receiver support bracket...I assume you would use a hook or chain loop/bolt and just go through the openings?
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Aug 17, 2015 8:09:39 GMT -8
You are correct, sir. The hooks on the chains would be slipped into the openings, and most newer vehicles with the towing package setups have these built in. Also, on any vehicle that I have had to add a hitch receiver to, there is some sort of similar arrangement built into the receiver.
The new safety chain I purchased for the SC is one continuous chain, with repair links that screw shut at either end. The one thing one should be sure of is the chains should not be able to bounce loose of the hitch. Either a repair link or a snap hook ( a little smaller version of the hooks shown above) work best, although I have never had any with S-hooks come undone...
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