mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 18, 2020 13:47:42 GMT -8
Left you a question on that thread. I'm still fairly confused. LOL... On the next page of the thread (page 7) I go into fairly deep detail of how I did it. It is the thin stuff often sold rolled, and can be cut with good scissors. OK that's what I was wondering about. I haven't used that yet but have plans to soon.
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Post by Teachndad on Jul 19, 2020 5:38:03 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I am having to care for my elderly mom and have to drive over 700 miles RT at least once a week. So, I brought some trailer pieces to work on during free moments. I cleaned and started removing oxidation off the door window of my 57 Westerner. Going to have to go back for a third pass because I still have some stubborn oxidation spots on it. I will post pix when it's all shined up. I had a piece of 3 foot skin trim that separates two pieces of skin on the street side. On that, I removed the staples. Took me the better part of 40 minutes to remove about 24 staples working carefully. Tiny little suckers stuck in the folded trim piece. My time included gently hammering down the metal stretch caused by the insertion of the staples. Once you remove the staples, they leave little "volcanos" in the aluminum and have to be flattened. Then I took some paint remover and started at removing the paint from the skin trim. After two passes of scraping away paint, I realized, I didn't have to do it because the rest of the skin still has the old weathered paint on it. Uggghh. Luckily, I didn't get all the paint off on this pass, so it will sort of still match the rest of the skins. Trim piece after some paint removal.
As a reference, here is the trim piece as originally installed. You can just make out the center butt seam strip down the lower half of my Westerner.
Cheers, Rod
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 21, 2020 10:43:22 GMT -8
Yep you have to clean those up because I don't think you can find H rail like that any more. I could be wrong though. I had them on the Jewel but I'm replacing all the metal so I have no need for them now.
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datac
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1957 Cardinal
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Post by datac on Jul 21, 2020 16:33:54 GMT -8
Direct from LifeBlue, shipped from Yuma. It's a pretty well reviewed battery, and I get 200 usable amp hours for 55lbs vs 260lbs plus from a lead-acid battery in a fraction of the space.
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oldman
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Post by oldman on Jul 21, 2020 18:36:39 GMT -8
Very nice. Too bad it wasn't a fraction of the price as well.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 28, 2020 8:34:30 GMT -8
Direct from LifeBlue, shipped from Yuma. It's a pretty well reviewed battery, and I get 200 usable amp hours for 55lbs vs 260lbs plus from a lead-acid battery in a fraction of the space.
Not being a millionaire I think I will stick with lead acid until they come out with a reasonable price. This price is totally ridiculous and out of the question.
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datac
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Post by datac on Jul 28, 2020 13:16:26 GMT -8
Direct from LifeBlue, shipped from Yuma. It's a pretty well reviewed battery, and I get 200 usable amp hours for 55lbs vs 260lbs plus from a lead-acid battery in a fraction of the space.
Not being a millionaire I think I will stick with lead acid until they come out with a reasonable price. This price is totally ridiculous and out of the question. Well, I'm usually a legendary cheapskate, but the math's not totally out of whack. BTW, this is actually a fairly low price per amp-hour for a Lithium Phosphate battery. Since I don't tow with a truck, there's no way I can put several hundred pounds worth of lead-acid battery in there, and buying and insuring a truck would obviously dwarf the price of the battery. I could buy a 3-way refrigerator, but again, the cost isn't exactly trivial there either, and I'd be stuck with some nasty looking exterior venting next to my front door and almost certainly a refrigerator that would be more than a bit cosmetically challenged in my old trailer. Whatever additional incremental expense there is is more than offset by the fact that I can camp off-grid with CPAPs for my wife and I, without even the need to purchase expensive 12v power supplies for them to keep the warranties intact. I have more than enough extra capacity to run everything, including my pretty but cheap 110v dorm fridge, through a simple true sine-wave inverter without worrying about incremental losses, and enough that even if my solar output is way, way down I'll be fine for several days. Add on top of all that the fact that LiFePO4 batteries last for far more years and cycles than lead-acid, and it wasn't a hard choice to make. In a previous hobby I built hotrod electric scooters as work commuters, and I can't tell you how tired I got of replacing AGM batteries in those. LiIon batteries are now about a quarter the price per amp-hour they were then.
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Post by Teachndad on Jul 29, 2020 12:53:04 GMT -8
Hello Friends, Today I finished the last of all the Hehr windows on my 57 Westerner. Today's project culminated a year long effort to clean, dismantle, rescreen and reassemble. The final reassembly was today when I riveted the "keepers" or lever locks into the mid frame support on the 3 remaining push out windows. I used a 5/32" stainless steel pop rivet Arrow brand for each mounting point. Let me tell you that I had to use all of my grip strength to insert those thicker pop rivets. I even had a new rivet tool and it was still a bear. If my hands were smaller, I would never have been able to squeeze hard enough or if had carpal tunnel syndrom. Out of 6 rivets, I had one obstinate rivet, but I won in the end. The image below also shows the polished door window frame after a third go at cleaning the oxidation. I was hoping for a better result on the door window frame, but it's pitted and it's done and that's what counts. I still have the front brow to polish - all 6 feet of it. It will be done by hand like all the rest. Cheers, Rod Door window frame covered with oxidation.
3 screens with new keepers and cleaned an polished door window frame.
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sunnywater
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1959 Shasta Airflyte (Connie)
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Post by sunnywater on Jul 29, 2020 14:08:56 GMT -8
Hello Friends, Today I finished the last of all the Hehr windows on my 57 Westerner. Today's project culminated a year long effort to clean, dismantle, rescreen and reassemble. The final reassembly was today when I riveted the "keepers" or lever locks into the mid frame support on the 3 remaining push out windows. I used a 5/32" stainless steel pop rivet Arrow brand for each mounting point. Let me tell you that I had to use all of my grip strength to insert those thicker pop rivets. I even had a new rivet tool and it was still a bear. If my hands were smaller, I would never have been able to squeeze hard enough or if had carpal tunnel syndrom. Out of 6 rivets, I had one obstinate rivet, but I won in the end.
They look great! I find even drilling out the rivets to be a challenge!
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Jul 30, 2020 20:37:12 GMT -8
Not being a millionaire I think I will stick with lead acid until they come out with a reasonable price. This price is totally ridiculous and out of the question. Well, I'm usually a legendary cheapskate, but the math's not totally out of whack. BTW, this is actually a fairly low price per amp-hour for a Lithium Phosphate battery. Since I don't tow with a truck, there's no way I can put several hundred pounds worth of lead-acid battery in there, and buying and insuring a truck would obviously dwarf the price of the battery. I could buy a 3-way refrigerator, but again, the cost isn't exactly trivial there either, and I'd be stuck with some nasty looking exterior venting next to my front door and almost certainly a refrigerator that would be more than a bit cosmetically challenged in my old trailer. Whatever additional incremental expense there is is more than offset by the fact that I can camp off-grid with CPAPs for my wife and I, without even the need to purchase expensive 12v power supplies for them to keep the warranties intact. I have more than enough extra capacity to run everything, including my pretty but cheap 110v dorm fridge, through a simple true sine-wave inverter without worrying about incremental losses, and enough that even if my solar output is way, way down I'll be fine for several days. Add on top of all that the fact that LiFePO4 batteries last for far more years and cycles than lead-acid, and it wasn't a hard choice to make. In a previous hobby I built hotrod electric scooters as work commuters, and I can't tell you how tired I got of replacing AGM batteries in those. LiIon batteries are now about a quarter the price per amp-hour they were then. Well Im poor... In government standards. So I'll use the lead acid even though in the long run the lithium ion is going to cost less. But see that's why they invented credit. So poor people can have the good life now and pay for it for the rest of their lives. LOL... Isn't life wonderful? No way I will ever pay $10 per ampere hour for power.
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Post by danrhodes on Jul 31, 2020 18:40:09 GMT -8
That thing is awesome and the sides look like they were poured on. Inspirational.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Aug 1, 2020 5:03:19 GMT -8
Very impressive work Larry, once again. Fun to watch this project come alive.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Aug 3, 2020 7:51:07 GMT -8
Thanks for the kind words everyone.
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Post by bigbill on Aug 25, 2020 18:47:03 GMT -8
Hello Larry looks like you are doing great things in your new shop. I'm not getting on here as much as I used to Diana fell and broke her neck same place as superman,got that healed then she fell again and broke her hip and femur so I have changed from trailer repair to a nurse. But we are still alive and that is a good thing.
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