nate
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1963 Comet 17'
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Post by nate on Oct 10, 2018 10:12:51 GMT -8
I have all my walls up on a complete rebuild, except for front lower panel (for access). I was planning on building my cabinets in the garage and then installing them in the camper. I'm realizing now that any floor to ceiling cabinets will need to be built inside the camper or I won't be able to get them tipped up in place.
Do you experienced builders build all your cabinets in place, in the camper? Do you attach your plywood to the framing after the stick framing is complete? I'm trying to figure out where I should start and would appreciate any helpful tips as I get started on this next phase.
Thanks,
Nate
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theresa
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from Northern Maine ~ Proud new owner of Lola, a 1960 Shasta Airflyte and Pearl, a 1962 Mobile Scout
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Post by theresa on Oct 10, 2018 11:20:54 GMT -8
I completely rebuilt my cabinets in my 1960 Shasta. The plywood is attached to the front face framing by gluing it into routed groove. I know there's a proper term for this, but I can't recall it at the moment. So I built my face frames, then attached the side panels, then built the shelves and attached the rear frame pieces that get screwed through to attach to the walls.
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aslmx
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Post by aslmx on Oct 10, 2018 17:29:45 GMT -8
I’m working on mine now and I don’t think they would have fit through the door. Word of warning, a router is going to make a mess inside the camper. Lol
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Post by vikx on Oct 10, 2018 19:35:48 GMT -8
I build my tall cabinets before the ceiling panels go on. The walls can be in place but the front and rear are open. The tall cabinets really help hold the ceiling panels. The lower kitchen cabinets and dinettes help square the walls, as does the bed framing. The upper cabinets go in after ceiling/rafters. You can place them in the trailer before if you like. I attach down thru the rafters and sometimes use fender washers at the ceiling panels. In any case, the more support the better.
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kirkadie
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'69 Serro Scotty Hilander
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Post by kirkadie on Oct 11, 2018 13:29:32 GMT -8
I built my cabinets in the shop but installed em before putting the roof panels on also otherwise I couldn't get the gimp in right, let alone get them fit under the roof. Scotty's roof is an almost constant curve and the roof panels get stapled down into the cabinets... there you go.
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Post by danrhodes on Oct 19, 2018 9:04:25 GMT -8
I installed all the cabinets before even the walls. I had done some redesign of the floor structure and wasn't confident in the height of the walls. Was easy to get it lined up with the top of the tall closet by using a guide block temporarily attached to the wall.
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jeremiah
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Post by jeremiah on Oct 29, 2018 5:46:06 GMT -8
Once I bought a nice big fridge 36 in wide. My front door was 35 1/2. The fridge works great in my garage.
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57 Trotwood
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Post by 57 Trotwood on Sept 16, 2020 7:36:55 GMT -8
Vikx,
Do you put the gimp along the cabinets where they meet the wall or only along where the cabinets meet the ceiling and where the ceiling meets the walls?
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shastatom
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I can chase women or fix campers, I choose to fix what I understand........... campers.
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Shasta 54,57 1500 58 Airflyte
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Post by shastatom on Sept 16, 2020 9:48:15 GMT -8
I put mine along anything that touched the ceiling and wall
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Post by vikx on Sept 16, 2020 10:48:55 GMT -8
I put my gimp along the whole length of each wall before doing the cabinets. Once the cabinets are in place, I put the gimp on them. I agree with Tom, everywhere the ceiling meets the walls or cabinets.
I also use fender washers and screws to secure the ceiling panel to the cabinets. Makes for a nice tight seal.
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Post by wisconsinjoe on Oct 3, 2020 7:28:39 GMT -8
Thanks for the fender washer tip
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Post by Teachndad on Oct 3, 2020 7:58:23 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
Let's say your floor isn't perfectly flat due to chassis issues and dips at least a 1/4" to the center. If the cabinets are built outside of the trailer and squared up, then will there be a gap under the front of the cabinet when you anchor to the wall? If there is a gap, and you screw the base of the cabinet into the floor isn't it going to pull the top of the wardrobe (and wall) toward the middle creating a problem?
Thanks,
Rod
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John Palmer
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Hi, From a vintage trailer guy located in Santa Ana, CA. It's good to see lots of activity here.
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Post by John Palmer on Oct 3, 2020 8:30:23 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Let's say your floor isn't perfectly flat due to chassis issues and dips at least a 1/4" to the center. If the cabinets are built outside of the trailer and squared up, then will there be a gap under the front of the cabinet when you anchor to the wall? If there is a gap, and you screw the base of the cabinet into the floor isn't it going to pull the top of the wardrobe (and wall) toward the middle creating a problem? Thanks, Rod Rod, no trailer has a completely square floors, walls, ceilings. Cabinets need to be adjusted to fit the application. You have several options. If the ceiling and roof are already installed, you can build the face and cabinet sides separately, square them up, and then attach them in pieces. This is how I did the bathroom walls in the Spartan. If the roof and ceiling are still off, just build the cabinet "a little proud", set it into the trailer, square it up and mark the high spots with a pencil, and use a belt sander to adjust to fit. It's best to snick up on your final fit by making small corrections and several fits. In the trades, they have a saying, "Hammer to fit, and Paint to match". The roofs, "even on well built" trailers have a lot of potential flex. I have used a screw type scissors jack, a 2 by 4 dead man support and raised the roof by a inch or more to gain enough to get a cabinet into a trailer. Remember, working on stick and tin trailers is easy compared to working on riveted skin trailers that already have their body assembled before you begin the interior. John |
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