roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 24, 2017 20:28:29 GMT -8
Im kinda with NC on this. My current project roof was full of needless vents, etc . I got a piece of 032 alu 8' wide x 16' long for about $220 . Im not sure time and money was any worse than a bunch of patching and it looks good. I did want to rebuild ceiling and upgrade insulation so needed that option anyway..just my opinion but whatever you do good luck and have fun.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 23, 2017 6:58:48 GMT -8
Thanks Marty, bigbill and Vikx for the quick help!
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 22, 2017 16:38:00 GMT -8
Thanks Marty. As this is an all new 12 v system I ran new 14 guage hot and ground to all items and have several circuits , so most things are isolated since I had the room.
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 22, 2017 7:43:15 GMT -8
On the 12 volt fuse panel side of a new PD converter, what’s the best way to size fuses for each circuit? A couple of examples: If the water pump is rated max 7.5 A should the fuse for that circuit be just as close as possible to that rating. 10a ok? If there are say 4 interior lights on one run, each with a led rated at 7 watts this is about .6 A x 4 = about 2 1/2 A total. Is a 5A fuse too much? There are a few other circuits but all the same concept. Thank you.
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 14, 2017 21:47:16 GMT -8
Well there was some great music in the 70's. And i have a 74 J10 jeep pickup that gets lots of smiles every time I take it out.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 11, 2017 20:45:35 GMT -8
Nice job. I take it that's the original frame?
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 5, 2017 20:21:49 GMT -8
Thanks Larry and Gary, Gary, I made the new rafters out of poplar. Poplar is strong for the weight, nice to work with and not overly expensive. It's available in 1x and 2x kiln dried in most widths. You should be able to get it at any good lumber yard (not box store) or hardwood supply house if you can get to a populated area. I (and others here) think it's worth the extra few dollars especially in structural areas like your roof. A little tip--- but you may know this. When you rip wide lumber sometimes it will go crooked on you because of the changes in the stresses in the board. For example rip a straight 2x8 and you might get two crooked 2x4"s. So when cutting for your rafters you should make the first cut a little wide and you will have room to straight line the narrow board and then make the final rip or taper on it. Hope this helps.
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Post by roadtripper on Nov 2, 2017 11:26:18 GMT -8
Me too Marty. So I've been thinking about this post awhile. Is it really that important what words you use if what you have works for you? My getting close to done project is a 62. Vintage? I'm happy with "old". And I was there in 62. I was a freshman in high school. It was a different time for sure. My dad, who passed away that year drove a 57 chevy to work everyday. Would that car be called vintage now? I think "classic" is more like it. Im sure Marty, Bill and others in this crowd have lots of fond car memories. I've often said how I wished I'd kept all my old ones...a 31 ford, 55 ford, 54 porsche to name a few. Recently a younger guy said that's funny. No one he grew up with ever said that. Like, " sure wish I'd kept the old 82 Honda". Anyway, this old man is looking forward to some good times next spring in my "old" trailer.
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Post by roadtripper on Oct 11, 2017 11:27:21 GMT -8
I'll second the last reply. The Norcold I'm getting for example has a requirement given in square inches for vent in the access door and upper wall vent. They alao want a baffle on top to direct heat to the upper vent. Look at website for specs and directions.
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Post by roadtripper on Oct 3, 2017 9:41:37 GMT -8
I've used a small piece of steel wool to shine up the inside and then a rag with paste wax and that helped a lot.
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 24, 2017 5:52:36 GMT -8
Thanks everyone.
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 22, 2017 19:40:16 GMT -8
My new water heater is several inches smaller than the old so here is a picture of how I down sized the opening. I framed to the new size and then took a scrap of metal from my discarded roof and made the patch. I hemmed the edges (with my wide vice grips), sealed under the splice with a little gutter seal and then screwed down as you see. I'll put an eyebrow above where the old seam is and probably paint the eyebrow and white cover to match my paint job on the siding. Short of getting a whole new piece this is the best solution I could come up with. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/pmgrayum/37397311185/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Water heater patch"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/37397311185_e4a823063e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Water heater patch"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 19, 2017 6:00:58 GMT -8
Thanks 57 T, got the carport last winter but offhand can't remember the company name. I'm in north CA and they are made down in Fresno. Was about $1000 including install ( which they did in about an hour). I remember there are a lot of companies out there all about the same prices. It's a pretty good compromise between a tarp and a garage.
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 16, 2017 15:58:51 GMT -8
Thank you very much everyone. I appreciate it because I know you all know what it takes.
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 16, 2017 6:40:25 GMT -8
I haven't kept track of costs but I'd say nc's list is right on, especially the "etc." at the end. There are options to cut costs like the paint as he mentioned. I opted for the auto paint thinking I hadn't cut corners anywhere else, so why start there. Just the way I was able to go about it. There are also appliances sometimes. I need a new fridge and the nice little norcold is $900. Mine came with old split rims so wheels (3) will be $50 each plus tires. Any way you look at it, in my opinion, it costs more and takes longer than you think it will. Not only with trailers, but almost everything.
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