roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 22, 2017 19:40:16 GMT -8
My new water heater is several inches smaller than the old so here is a picture of how I down sized the opening. I framed to the new size and then took a scrap of metal from my discarded roof and made the patch. I hemmed the edges (with my wide vice grips), sealed under the splice with a little gutter seal and then screwed down as you see. I'll put an eyebrow above where the old seam is and probably paint the eyebrow and white cover to match my paint job on the siding. Short of getting a whole new piece this is the best solution I could come up with. <a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/pmgrayum/37397311185/in/dateposted-ff/" title="Water heater patch"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/37397311185_e4a823063e_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Water heater patch"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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Post by vikx on Sept 22, 2017 20:54:56 GMT -8
Not bad at all! I think it looks fine. My SCS is going to need a similar patch..
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mrmarty51
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1972 HOMEMADE
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Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 23, 2017 21:02:42 GMT -8
That is a pretty nice patch job.
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nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Sept 24, 2017 4:40:14 GMT -8
That should work just fine. Nice job.
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Post by bigbill on Sept 24, 2017 5:28:47 GMT -8
I think most people wouldn't even notice it unless you point it out.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Sept 24, 2017 5:52:36 GMT -8
Thanks everyone.
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mobiltec
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1954 Jewel In Progress...
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Post by mobiltec on Sept 25, 2017 8:30:12 GMT -8
My Scamper has the same issues and same type of patches. Yours looks just fine. The only other thing you could have done was replace the entire panel. Definitely put a brow over the top but not too close to the vent. Heat needs to escape there.
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