charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 7, 2018 4:43:27 GMT -8
Can't help you much with the Deluxe, but how much do you want for that "pre Compact" I've never heard of one before, and THAT is one cute little camper!
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 7, 2018 4:38:59 GMT -8
Alisha I tried going to the link that you listed, but it's telling me that I need to log in. Maybe there's a public URL that will let others see the pics?
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 6, 2018 7:09:12 GMT -8
If you're replacing your floor, something like you'll see if you scroll down in the following link might work for you: 1956 Shasta 1500Scroll down to the section where the new walls are installed. I don't know who put that blog together. Perhaps he's a member here?
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Post by charliemyers on Jun 5, 2018 9:49:04 GMT -8
By that time I had decided to go with Hemet so I didn't follow up. Seems like alum., containers, and shipping, the two were less than a $200 dollar difference. (Before chasing down a cheaper price). Do you mind sharing where you chased down a cheaper price? Or maybe I've misunderstood what you said. I know that you went with Hemet, but i sounds like you later found a cheaper price elsewhere. I'm looking for options to entirely reskin a '61 Compact. Save
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Post by charliemyers on May 30, 2018 6:32:44 GMT -8
I don't know what it is, but I really don't think that it's a Spartan. I don't like to point people to Facebook, but there's a fellow "Tim Heintz" in the "Tin Can Tourists" Facebook group that can likely identify it, and he particularly likes the park models. If you Google his name you can likely find his contact information published on his website.
I'm not affiliated with Tim at all. I just know that he's a veritable encyclopedia on make & model of early campers.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 29, 2018 7:15:28 GMT -8
Looking great Thomas!
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Post by charliemyers on May 18, 2018 4:34:56 GMT -8
mel Are you dealing with the Compact or the Airflyte? Considering that you've been using the Compact (assuming its lights have worked in the past), this might change the line of thought. You need the camper to get the ground through the connection in the wiring harness. If it needs the coupler hitched to get a ground, then it's not getting it the right way. Get it work without the coupler hitched, and you should be OK. Your ground in the wiring harness should be well attached to the trailer's chassis. The other wires that you see from the chassis to the skin make the skin a part of the ground as well. The whole chassis & skin should be considered "ground". The light fixtures usually attach the bulb's ground to the fixture itself. The fixture is attached to the skin, which is connected to the chassis, which is connected to the ground pin in the wiring harness. It's all one big path that the electrons follow to get back to the power source. If NONE of your lights are working, I would start with the wiring harness and work your way back to the lights. First thing I would do is use a multimeter to see if the ground wire in the harness has continuity with the chassis. You can probably find a million YouTube videos on check continuity. If the ground wire in the harness does not have continuity with the chassis...fix it and re-test the lights (the ground pin in the harness should be physically attached to chassis somewhere). Once the ground pin has continuity with the chassis, check to make sure that the ground wire has continuity with the skin. If it doesn't, fix it and re-test the lights (check those wires from the chassis to the skin). Once the ground pin has continuity with the skin, re-test your lights. If they still don't work, check to make sure that the ground pin has continuity with the base of the light fixtures. Also using a separate 12V power source (12V batter, battery charger, etc) to run the tests while the camper is entirely disconnected from a tow vehicle will help to isolate the problem. If you get this far and still don't have lights, come back for more suggestions. This is the way I'd approach it. Someone else with more experience might chime in with a better way though.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 16, 2018 12:10:42 GMT -8
Your plan should work, but it might be more efficient to convert everything possible to 12VDC and skip the inverter entirely. Inverting 12VDC to 120VAC is rather inefficient.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 15, 2018 12:23:13 GMT -8
It looks like the board still dips down...is that an optical illusion from camera angles or something?
I don't know where, but I do remember seeing pics of a rebuild somewhere that used 3/4" square aluminum tubing fastened to the rafters the same as you did yours with the flat steel. They also put a slight crown in the aluminum tubing to help protect against further sagging.
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Post by charliemyers on May 8, 2018 10:31:10 GMT -8
The tires rub? As in on the wheel tub or? They rub as in when trying to remove the wheel from the axle. You'd mentioned about having problems removing the tires from the trailer. Prior to moving the axle below the springs, I had to deflate the tire prior to removing it from the axle, and it was still a struggle. After moving the axle below the springs, the fully inflated tire rubs a little when removing it, but it's a tremendous improvement over the original configuration. I've seen where some people have replaced their worn out springs or had them re-arched to help with this sort of problem as well. I haven't done that yet, but if I do I'm hoping that it will improve the situation even more. When mounted on the axle, there's plenty of room in the fender well.
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Post by charliemyers on May 8, 2018 4:17:32 GMT -8
I installed the axle below the spring and it has given us a lot more clearance to work with. I did the same thing with our '61 Compact that has brakes. The tires still rub a little, but they can be removed without having to deflate them. I haven't done any work with the leaf springs yet either, so when that happens maybe I'll get a little more clearance.
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Post by charliemyers on May 7, 2018 6:27:57 GMT -8
I'm always a proponent for trailer brakes regardless of the size of the tow vehicle for the simple reason of having something to stop your trailer if it becomes disconnected from your vehicle. With a battery and a disconnect switch, your trailer will apply the brakes and come to a stop in such a situation, and something that I just recently realized is that your tow vehicle does NOT need to be wired with a brake controller to take advantage of that (please correct me if I'm wrong about that). I mean after all, when it's disconnected, it doesn't even have a tow vehicle, much less a brake controller.
My current tow vehicle is a Silverado 3500HD, and my Shasta Compacts do or will have brakes (one currently has brakes, one doesn't) before they're towed off my property.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 7, 2018 5:54:24 GMT -8
Before making any modifications to the cabinet, you want to be dead certain that your problem isn't elsewhere! As mel & vikx have said, make sure that the wall hasn't sagged. Also make sure that the chassis is still well supported from underneath on jacks and is sitting level.
Because the cabinet is not off by the same amount all the way across, I would especially suspect part of the wall sagging or some part of the foundation having shifted. If your floor was put in too thick, I would think that the whole cabinet would be too tall by the same amount.
If it were me, I'd spend several days contemplating the situation before even considering shortening the cabinet.
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Post by charliemyers on May 7, 2018 4:58:13 GMT -8
Welcome to VTT Tina! I think that I responded to your post on Facebook last night. I'm surprised you actually saw videos telling you to repair from the inside. Facebook? Unfortunately Larry isn't the only person putting videos on YouTube and/or Facebook of their camper restorations. But admittedly I haven't seen anyone doing a full video series of the wrong way, but there's enough wrong content out there to mislead a beginner into thinking that it's just the way to do it. I know that it took well over a year before I was convinced that the "outside in" approach was the right way in addition to being the only way that's safe. I was just fortunate enough that I invested a LOT of time figuring out the "hows, whens, & whys" before getting started on one.
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Post by charliemyers on May 4, 2018 8:50:29 GMT -8
I don't anything about your camper or "Marvel", but I would guess that it's more in the late 40's to early 50's era. Of course I could be way off with that guess too.
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