Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 18, 2016 5:44:27 GMT -8
Awwwww... c'mon. It's only 110 volts.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 18, 2016 5:39:04 GMT -8
The scavenger-hunt aspect is really one of the most fun parts about this hobby alright, alright...ADDICTION...finding things that fit a time period or for repurposing.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 17, 2016 16:43:39 GMT -8
Let this one go. It is a unique time and model style, but the fact that it is mush to start with means you will only end up with a pile of nothingness blowing around the yard and have the task of taking time out to dispose of it later. One other set of parts I always check for in my visits is paperwork. Check the drawers and the cupboards for thinks like keys to the locks, "specialty" tools, and especially dealer-information from the time of the manufacture. If you can find identifying plates with model numbers and serial numbers, take photos. Then you can always begin a search for the actual model. Take some photos of the details for your own reference. Build your own reference files in your computer archives for future possibilities that you may run across someone looking for info on it.
You are correct, the skin is going to be totally mis-shapen by the tree-hit. Thus you end up with even less of anything valuable. You have started taking a cache of parts out already, stay with that path. You don't want this one in the way when your next find comes along.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 18:35:18 GMT -8
Sounds like adding a tetanus shot to your shopping list may be in order!
I would highly recommend some gloves. There are some made that are fancier and tighter fit, usually goatskin or some other real soft leather. For about $20 you can save a lot of the nicks and scrapes. However, the gloves will be pretty enough when they are new, you won't want to get them dirty,.... go ahead, ask me how I know this.... I also carry the cheaper bulkier gloves for the more brutish work, where delicate soldering or bomb de-fusing is not required. Great for most of the window-pulling, not so much for turninig the screwdriver.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 18:22:20 GMT -8
Use a two-inch putty knife to "slice" all the way around the window before you try to pry on it. This should start to disengage the seal from the siding. Since you are not concerned about the condition of the siding after removal, you don't need to use much caution doing this. But, work gloves are a good idea in case of slippage. Once you have been all the way around, you should be able to pry some with the putty knife and begin to see some "give". With the seal broken loose this way, you won't have so much tendency for the window frame to twist or break any glass when it finally gives up.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 18:11:03 GMT -8
Most of the Shastas were similar back then. Thank you for the help, SusieQ! That may not be exact but it is pretty close, and since I don't have to match it up, replacing the whole floor, ... wow...
Didn't mean to hijack....so feel free to continue ridiculing face book....
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 18:07:20 GMT -8
That trim should remain your decision. It is a lot of turning screws, for a trim style that you might never find a need for. An if you do there are replacements available. Personally I would not bother. But what do I know? I bet you are sore. And, if they were real tough to get loose, then there may have been a substantial seal left...makes it really too bad about the tree part.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 17:57:56 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 17:41:12 GMT -8
Here is a construction note for you...the gold colored trim in the bathroom was used with putty tape behind it to seal the corners of the walls in the wet bath (shower).
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 17:23:52 GMT -8
If I could get the original 9X9 tiles NOS for my '64, ... But, STILL not worth signing into facebook..... She had a ton of it and it looked just like that. I think if you choose it for yourself that's one thing. If you buy it because the names says Plastic Asphalt, and you think that means it's NOT asbestos, you were rooked. Agreed agreed agreed. I can't tell you how much temptation this is now. The camper has turned into a full frame-off project now that the shop collapsed on it, and the floor is definitely going to need to be replaced. Might need a middle man for this, since I abhor FB nearly as much as I do wallmart.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 17:04:47 GMT -8
Free windows and the education that comes with them is hard to complain about, especially if you have the storage space to keep them. I have a couple trailers' worth myself. The best way to remove the door is right by its frame. Remove the screws and pry the putty loose, just like the windows, and take the entire unit as a whole.
Folding bed hardware? Piano hinges? Nice score....
Toilet training is always fun. I don't know for sure if it is one that will be worth saving...there were a few that definitely were not... The hold-down on the Aqua Magic models were a bit tricky, as the bolts are enclosed in the housing. Others were not so hidden. Just remember your cutters to sever the supply line.
Other exterior stuff is obvious, markers and tail lights, license light, porch light.....step....vent covers... We've covered the propane stuff before, I would not bother with anything to do with the propane unless the rack itself is in excellent condition. Regulators and lines stay behind.
The step may be near impossible if it is welded on, as well as the bumper. I would not worry about the bumper, as it probably will be welded as an integral part of the frame. Since you are having new frame done, just have it built in to it. Simple clean and neat.
I am not familiar specifically with the Wedgewood stoves, but it probably will be screwed into the cupboard surrounding it on its sides, and through the base into the shelf it sits on also. (Just as refrigerators are mounted to the floor and sides, from an earlier line of question.)
Gotta admit to being jealous of this mission, seems a lot more fun than the mission I have been on...
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 16:14:02 GMT -8
If I could get the original 9X9 tiles NOS for my '64, I definitely would not care. But then , I already am aware of the likelihood of the asbestos, and the true risks of handling it. Heck, I ain't gonna be around forever anyway, so a NEW floor?? yeah, I' m in! But, STILL not worth signing into facebook.....
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 16, 2016 15:52:25 GMT -8
Lighting fixtures, in some cases, can be worth having. Even ones that have been wet can be dried out, and sometimes the finish will hold up too. 12-V lights might hold the "guts" you need for the gas lamp conversion. Older original glass globes are worth a few looks too. I'm in with Vikx... hardware. It holds up the best under the worst conditions, and remains a useful placeholder in any vintage-nut's toolbox. Door handles and drawer handles can run into money when a lot needs to get replaced, and extras are good. I would not worry about gimp. But table and counter edging, if accessible is worth a look. The table mounting hardware is still a find, even if you don't take the table. Get the mounting from the wall as well. I find appliances and windows both to be iffy, because in the case of windows, lots of trailers have some which are unique sizes. Folks replace appliances because they are not sure if they work and they are old, and worst of all, they cost a small fortune to try to transport if someone were looking for one shipped. However, the various parts, again (burner knobs, burner rings, grates, racks) are again handy to have in your stockpiles, there is always someone looking. Small things like towel racks and such too....Oh...don't forget to look for the Sun Lite 400...with the globe. Shasta wings are a good find too....I have yet to beat the crowds to find any. (But only if the trailer is a Shasta...)
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 12, 2016 7:34:58 GMT -8
Not taking the advice of the mob on fb is a good suggestion, always. Said mob is made up mostly of people who think trailers are built like houses are, or have absolutely no idea whatsoever. This is a perfect example of why the best candidates for saving now will be the worst pieces of junk in the next 5 years. Once this market for "cute" trailers disappears, there won't be any left worth saving. The larger ones like the Westwoods and the Spartans will be the best targets left for (real)restoration.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 10, 2016 21:00:43 GMT -8
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