Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Oct 31, 2022 22:42:52 GMT -8
Add my applause! Perfect, Rod! Great idea and something the kids will remember, for sure!
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Aug 11, 2022 22:36:46 GMT -8
Go into this knowing that: Nothing that is "free" really costs you nothing: Labor cost is NOT APPLICABLE! Labor should not be considered free but your own certainly is...: Materials will always cost twice to four times what you estimate because you will ALWAYS need more screws, nails, plumbing connectors, parts, pieces, gas for trips to the hardware store, price increases at the lumber yard, body parts, paint, welding done, gaskets and weatherstripping,.............; EVERYTHING takes twice as long to plan out, three times as long to make fit together, and four times to make actually work than you will figure....
That is what makes it all fun.
On the down side....
There is not any certain "book value" for any of this, it is all labor of love, and can only be "valued" by you. (HINT: You will end up with a LOT more time and $$ than you anticipate...will it be love or regret when you get to the end of that rebuild journey?) Since there is no absolute guideline and a crazy market, how long would this take to "get away from" you?
With regards to the particular 1958 model, know that there is a LOT of unforeseen things that can go wrong with all the moving parts in anything that old. Anything that could have been built can be re-built...but at what cost?
The biggest thing to overcome is sentimental value to a previous owner. If they are not willing to flex, knowing that they are never going to invest in all of the above themselves, and allow for how much it will cost you in time, then walk away.
Don't negotiate anything starry-eyed, take it from someone who has been there...
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jul 31, 2022 19:14:30 GMT -8
Remember that when you are measuring the originals in a 50+ years-old-or-so window that sh New rinkage and contraction are a lot of reason the old seals don't still work. So, if something is oversized by a fraction from what you have in your hand, it may well be meant to fit. New will be a lot more pliable also.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jul 31, 2022 18:57:23 GMT -8
This particular Shasta has been completely altered and is hard to recognize but I am fairly certain this is a Starflyte model with a lot of the original structure removed, the kitchen layout and the rear bunk are correct. The bathroom space and the front dinette and upper bunk have been removed or altered beyond the original design. The VIN number dates it (by the database) as a 1968 model built in Battleground, Washington.
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Jul 31, 2022 18:48:07 GMT -8
1968 model is before the 19 foot Starflyte was built if memory serves me even a little.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 5, 2022 21:55:08 GMT -8
I'm a little late for this, but could I also add that, in the case of the roof metal overlapping the side, there was a thin bit of putty between the roof and wall aluminum, and then sealed over by the putty sealing the J-rail. This part of the install didn't change any of the information above, the rot factor still needs to be carefully observed.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 5, 2022 21:26:06 GMT -8
Thank you for taking such good care of Hamlet! I've long been a fan...!
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Apr 5, 2022 21:18:47 GMT -8
I haven't been around in a long time, but it is REALLY GREAT to see an Astrodome again!
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Oct 20, 2021 21:37:57 GMT -8
Which model Shasta are you working on? The photo appears to be an Airflyte. The original window in the Airflyte did open, it was the push-out style Hehr window. There was a lever that locked it closed, and acted to push the window open from teh bottom, hinging out at the top. The screening was aluminum screen and was integral to the window frame if memory serves me correctly.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Oct 20, 2021 21:30:02 GMT -8
Removing the stove and heater will take away most of the gas (propane) need. When they are removed, the propane lines can be capped, at the point of hookup to those appliances, or find the tee that leads to the lamp, and cap off the other leads there.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Jun 8, 2021 23:06:39 GMT -8
Hi there ! Newbie originally from South Africa but proud to call the states my home now!! ❤️ I just ordered your ebook, because I was given “a new to me Shasta”... needless to say she is in dire need of restoration! I’ve watched mibiltechs videos etc online too! Here is my question kind sir - my camper was manufactured in Texas grapevine from what I can gather and the number on the trailer I located is as follows : T10010 I have no idea of the year or model as it didn’t come with a title ....she also has her wings , if that helps ... I would add a photo but for some reason there is no where to link one using a mobile iPhone ! Any help would be greatly appreciated ! Marisa Ps I posted in a wrong thread before this one - apologies
This is a 16SC, has the same features as my first one...awning windows, stove vent, and also the vent for the gas light over the stove. Mine was built in 1970. I believe this to be an anomaly in the database. The "gold-stripe" exterior was change out in the 1974 model year, just prior to Coachmen's buyout of the original Shasta company. The paint design was quite different starting in the 1975 year.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on May 7, 2021 10:02:55 GMT -8
I also found that the hitch was not fully engaged so I wacked it a few times, greased it and now it fully engages the new 2" ball. I just have not been able to figure out the lock part... the hitch has only only hole on one side?The locking mechanism slides to lock onto the ball. I use a padlock to prevent it from being able to be uncoupled.
The position of the hole will allow the bail to pivot, but not allow the coupler to slide.
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 25, 2021 21:00:35 GMT -8
Nobody cam possibly come on here and emphasize just how important towing safety is. I say again, it's impossible to emphasize enough just how important towing safety is. You ask some great questions that some people may take for granted. Here are a few of my thoughts based on what I read into your questions. I am uneducated about the towing capabilities of the Saturn Vue, and I prefer overkill in the form of the towing vehicle,my 4WD truck does a nice job with my Shasta. You must know the towing capacity, tongue-weight capacity, and the braking capacity before you start out. If you have towed it already, you should have some idea of how it will handle it. Just remember, adding gear, equipment, water, propane, and people can drastically change the load you are trying to haul with a relatively lightweight tow vehicle. New tires and bearings are always a good idea. Tire load ratings are important with other factors involved as well...trailer-rated tires, proper inflation and check your lug nuts(!!) New bearings may not always be necessary, but lubricating them should be part of your annual maintenance. My first inclination when you described the loud bang when hitting the brakes was exactly what Dan brought up above. Check to make sure you have the correct ball for the hitch. The Shasta coupler is 2", be sure the ball matches. The 1 7/8 ball leaves enough slop to make for a very disconcerting ride... I get a noise in my hitch from the pin that holds the receiver in place. If there is any slop in the receiver, it can cause some noises. It has never given me any great concern for safety when towing, but it is another link in your towing system that should be inspected when you are getting ready for a trip. The Compact has always been a small enough trailer weight-wise that it never required having brakes installed for legal standards in most states. There were none I ever heard of shipped out from the factory with brakes installed. It has been a long time since I have been underneath one, and I can't remember if there is a flange on the axle for brakes. If there is, they could be added fairly simply, I put new brake assemblies on my Shasta for just about $300, but in your case you would also have to add the drums, as they would not likely be present on the axle. If there is not, the axle would have to be changed entirely. You would also need a brake controller in the vehicle, and it is probably not already wired for one. Switching to the 7-pin wiring would almost be necessary in that case, answering that for you. In my opinion, adding brakes would increase your safety quite a bit with the lighter towing vehicle. Replacing the coupler on the tongue should not be necessary if it locks down firmly onto the 2" ball. If it is necessary, you should have it done by a qualified experienced welder to make sure a new one is mounted straight and true. Let me see if I can tie your hitch questions into one tirade...
Normally I would not think a weight-distribution hitch would be necessary for a Compact, but I do use one with my 16SC (about 2500 lbs dry weight), and it makes a world of difference in the ride. The weight distribution equipment is heavy however, and can change your tongue weight by enough to consider. By having a sag in the hitch I assume you mean the trailer is not level, and this can be corrected by adjusting the hitch height. Multiple adjustments can be made with most W-D hitches. A standard draw bar can be purchased with different level of drop/ lift.
Don't cut the chains. First be sure they are in good enough condition to handle an emergency breakaway, and if they are questionable, replace them. Use a good chain if replacing, and have them welded in place. I would guess they may have been replaced already, as many of the Compacts only came equipped with one chain. Shortening can be accomplished by twisting the chain, then crossing it with the other to cradle beneath the coupler. Make sure they have enough play to not bind up but don't drag. Dragging can wear the chain thin enough to become unsafe.
By the time I get this finished and posted today, others will have already countless pointed all these points out. So take my echo as just reaffirming good advice...
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Ten
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70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
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Post by Ten on Mar 31, 2021 22:29:18 GMT -8
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Mar 6, 2021 20:15:49 GMT -8
This is a bit of a mystery without knowing where it was connected. I suspect the petcock was a drain for the water tank, and it is possible the broken off pipe may have been a water line leading to another part of the plumbing, and possibly might have been a propane line. Again, impossible to tell from this angle.
This filler cap would unscrew, allowing the water tank to be filled from a hose. Then when screwed back on, it would seal and allow for air pressure to be added to the system. The pressure would push the water through the system. A lot of trailers in this era with the pressure system had a electric compressor built into them. The stem on the cap allowed use of a pump to pressurize the system if no electricity were available.
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