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Post by Teachndad on Apr 3, 2018 14:22:25 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
The mounting screw that holds the "clip" to keep a window screen in place sheared when I was trying to loosen it to get to the screen.
I now have a stub sticking out on both sides of the aluminum frame.
How do I remove the stub? Other window mounting screws are frozen as well. Is there anything that might loosen them up that I can spray on? It's like they are calcified in place. The bolts seem soft. Pictures added below.
Thanks,
Rod
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 3, 2018 14:54:35 GMT -8
Can you share a photo?
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Post by Teachndad on Apr 3, 2018 20:07:30 GMT -8
Hi NC, Sure, here are some photos. From far away. The bolt is almost dead center in the image. Close up – Interior side Image showing both sides. Since this photo was taken, I sheared more off the interior side after steel brushing both sides. This is what it's supposed to look like. Cheers, Rod
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Apr 4, 2018 3:22:29 GMT -8
Thanks for the photos. I assume there isn't enough of the stub to use needle nose vise gripes? Drilling it out is a possibility but you'd have to with a very small bit and have a steady hand to avoid destroying the threaded (soft) aluminum hole.
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kudzu
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Post by kudzu on Apr 4, 2018 3:38:29 GMT -8
Is there anything that might loosen them up that I can spray on? It's like they are calcified in place. The bolts seem soft. Pictures added below. Sounds like galvanic corrosion, mixed metals in contact and I bet you get water condensing on the frames at times. I don't know an easy way to break that bond but I would try a penetrating oil and let it soak for several days. It's not an easy bond to break.
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jukebox
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Post by jukebox on Apr 4, 2018 5:14:47 GMT -8
From the picture it looks like the screw can be removed from the backside. Instead of trying to remove the screw out the front try to continue screwing it inward and then remove from the back. That channel space should be big enough to allow the screw to come out. That screw was originally screwed in. Continue to screw it in and see if you can get it out as long as the shoulder of the screw doesn't bind.
Work from the front in and out to free it. Use a penetrating spray to help and keep it coated as you work it back and forth. Take your time and don't force it.
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Post by Teachndad on Apr 4, 2018 9:24:59 GMT -8
CLR or Lime Away?
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DaytonaGTS
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Post by DaytonaGTS on Apr 4, 2018 12:26:37 GMT -8
I would use penetrating oil like stated above, it comes in a spray can and most autoparts stores have it. You can also try WD-40 in a pinch but it doesnt penatrate and loosen as well as penetrating oil does. Like Jukebox said and turn it out the back side, then you wont be trying to grind the extra corrosion into the treads.
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shastatom
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I can chase women or fix campers, I choose to fix what I understand........... campers.
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Post by shastatom on Apr 4, 2018 15:45:38 GMT -8
If you have to drill it out find a set of left handed drill bits. What happens many times as you start to heat it up with the drilling of the screw, it will start to come loose and work its way out with the drill bit. Like they said above you have the big issue of a steel screw mounted in aluminum and it is corroded.
I found my set of left handed drill bits at Harbor F. If you do buy a set make sure you mark them as left handed so someone doesn't try and use them like normal bits.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Apr 5, 2018 4:33:34 GMT -8
If you can safely apply heat without catching the camper on fire, heat the bolt up before spraying with penetrating oil. The heat/cool cycle will expand & contract the metal which can help break it loose, plus it will draw the oil in deeper as it cools when the oil is applied kind of like the way solder sucks into a joint.
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Post by Teachndad on Apr 5, 2018 8:38:55 GMT -8
Hi Friends, Wow! So many great ideas. I am going to try the penetrating oil and a hair dryer to avoid the possible bonfire. Cheers, Rod
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Ten
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Post by Ten on Apr 6, 2018 12:14:03 GMT -8
I am going to go along with nccamper's suggestion, but I use a regular 4-inch vice grip pliers. The trick is getting ahold of the screw body as tightly as possible the first time, before trying to twist. The needle-nosed version always twist enough to snap off the screw when I have used them. I have had very few screws, including the ones where dissimilar metals are at work, that would not give up to the vice grips.
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HOTRODPRIMER
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Post by HOTRODPRIMER on May 22, 2018 17:24:38 GMT -8
I used a regular pair of vice grips to remove a lot of screws on my Shasta. Danny 11
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