mel
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Post by mel on Mar 22, 2016 18:49:31 GMT -8
AI was so excited when I found this in one of the cubbies I took down the other day. My husband looked at me like I was crazy when I did a little happy dance. perfect condition! Take a good look at that Door Bottom and you will see that really they are not all that hard to make. I've made a few of them now and I even made a door side on the 54 Aljoa. Yes you need access to a hand brake but it really is pretty easy. Good job finding that piece. Someone was smart enough to save it when it fell off. I know a few people on here have made them and said it wasn't hard. But for some reason it's something I was nervous about. So I'm just glad it's one thing off my long list.
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mel
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Post by mel on Mar 23, 2016 13:54:43 GMT -8
I did end up having to router the edges a little skinnier to fit in the sliders.
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Post by danrhodes on Mar 23, 2016 15:36:36 GMT -8
Did you consider just using the formica alone as the slider? The wilsonart samples I got were quite thick.
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mel
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Post by mel on Mar 23, 2016 15:59:13 GMT -8
Did you consider just using the formica alone as the slider? The wilsonart samples I got were quite thick. No I didnt think of that, but they would be too skinny for my slider tracks and probably bounce around while driving and slide open. Which wouldnt be the biggest deal. I would also worry about someone kicking it out with their feet and braking it while they were sitting at the table. But it would have probably worked fine that way and might be a good option for someone. The formica website says they are 0.035'' (0.9mm) thick. I wonder how thick your wilsonart is.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Mar 23, 2016 16:31:43 GMT -8
I did end up having to router the edges a little skinnier to fit in the sliders. That is exactly what I did with the Deville. I used the old sliders and just put the formica over them. Then routed out the difference on the top and bottom edges on the back side and they worked great.
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mel
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Post by mel on Mar 30, 2016 14:18:26 GMT -8
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Post by vikx on Mar 31, 2016 20:56:48 GMT -8
Looks like you got that mouse problem solved Mel!!
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mel
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Post by mel on Apr 13, 2016 12:56:27 GMT -8
It took me 2.5 hours to take off the door and take it apart. The bottom half of the screws on the hinge were rusted/corroded too bad to screw out, and my screw pliers wouldnt work on them because the hinge has like a bubble out around where the screws go in, so that would not allow me to grab them. I had to drill out all the screws. Then of course the twisty nails were next, hahah the 1x2 I got to rebuild the door are a little thinner than the original, the 1x2 are 3/4 and the original is 7/8 thick. So im not sure if I should try to find some 7/8 thick to rip down, or just use the 1x2's that I already have? anyone have any advise?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 14, 2016 10:53:14 GMT -8
First time I have seen a door made from 1x2.. Usually they are at least 1 inch thick or more. The paneling is thinner these days also so perhaps you should rip something down to size. Check your paneling thickness against the old paneling also and adjust for what you want the end result to be.
Lately I have been milling a lot of my own lumber because they are making everything smaller. I got a table saw from Harbor Freight for $100 and it's lightweight and portable. Very easy to store on it's side in a corner. I've been ripping down my own framing for all the roof material and just now started doing the same for screen doors. I've also been buying more expensive wood these days. I'm using poplar now instead of pine for a lot of the framing. It's going to add weight to the trailer but well worth the cost I think. Poplar is much harder wood. For the pine I have been using "select" instead of number 2. No knots and much better wood all the way around. It's a little tougher to get the pocket hole jig bit through the poplar and select pine but it's worth the extra time.
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Post by danrhodes on Apr 14, 2016 12:32:22 GMT -8
Hi Larry... How straight are your ripped boards? I got a couple batches of straight, knot free 1x4 but when I ripped them, half turned to pretzels on me.
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 14, 2016 14:36:41 GMT -8
Hi Larry... How straight are your ripped boards? I got a couple batches of straight, knot free 1x4 but when I ripped them, half turned to pretzels on me. Dan if you use Select that won't be as much as a problem. I've been having great luck ripping my own framing. But don't use the light weight stuff with knots. It will warp on you for sure. By the way Lowes has the best "select" pine and Poplar that I have found. Stay away from the Home Depot stuff. I'm buying a lot more of my wood from Lowes now. Now for thicker framing, 1 1/4 inch and larger I use good old Doug Fir. You can also use White Board that they make 2x4s out of. I can usually get 3 pieces out of a 2x4. Just depends on what thickness you need. 2x4s are 3 3/8 to 3 1/2 inches wide and 1 3/8 thick. Do the math for your sizing needs. But for all the 1x framework I am now using either select pine or poplar. They are both pretty expensive but worth it to me.
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mel
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Post by mel on Apr 17, 2016 14:34:59 GMT -8
I think this photo sums up my weekend pretty good.
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SusieQ
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Post by SusieQ on Apr 17, 2016 15:11:41 GMT -8
Yep, that's just like my door. I used the select from Lowe's.
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mel
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Post by mel on Apr 23, 2016 12:24:44 GMT -8
Taking a brake and thought I would post a photo. I cant get the water fill off, I cracked it a little while trying to twist it with a wrench and tapping it with the hammer and I still cant get it off, maybe I should just smash it since its already cracked?
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mobiltec
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Post by mobiltec on Apr 23, 2016 14:35:54 GMT -8
Taking a brake and thought I would post a photo. I cant get the water fill off, I cracked it a little while trying to twist it with a wrench and tapping it with the hammer and I still cant get it off, maybe I should just smash it since its already cracked? Those things are just about impossible to get off. I usually just go ahead and use a sawzall and cut it in the middle of the metal pipe. That way if you want to reuse the filler you can. Just hose clamp a filler tube onto the end of the pipe.
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