htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 13, 2017 13:01:49 GMT -8
Vintage trailer shop has a part number breakdown by window serial number. Did you try that? They show the u shaped seal as 0114Z3
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 12, 2017 8:13:59 GMT -8
Basically, power runs from the battery, to the master shutoff switch that is inside the trailer. Then it goes to a 50 amp self resetting breaker and to the fuse block. I wish that I bought a larger fuse block, mine only has 4 fuses. On the left is a ground block and a accessory socket. I can use the socket for a trickle charger or a solar charger. The other, unused at this time, breaker will supply power to my invertor.
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 11, 2017 17:04:37 GMT -8
That is funny, I asked for Willow green, because it was the original color of my 57 f-100. I'm going to paint the Ford green and white to match. They didn't have the formula for it, so we just looked at the generic paint chips and picked one. I'd have to go look at the can, but I think it's ral6019. www.advantagerefinishproducts.com/intermix-system-single-stage-coatings/intermix-system-acrylic-urethane-bases/790-acrylic-urethane-base-whiteThanks, the shop is great. I really hated to do the paint and body work in there, but the weather has been lousy. It sure made a mess inside. I have one of the smaller bays set up as a paint booth, but it is too tight for the trailer. Yours came out great, love the new skin. Here's the 57 Ford. My wife hates the metallic blue.
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 11, 2017 15:28:02 GMT -8
I just finished painting my Lo-Liner today. I just now noticed how close the color is to yours. I used Advantage Refinish polyurethane enamel. 2 gallons with hardener, reducer, thinner for cleanup, etc was $360. I only used 2 quarts of white and a quart and a half of the green. After sanding the trailer, it was primed with white epoxy primer. A 2k primer was sprayed over the epoxy on areas that required smoothing, (epoxy sticks and seals well, but does not wand well). Then the trailer was sprayed with a reduced epoxy primer and finally paint. I like to pull off the tape as soon as the paint flashes, you must be careful, but with the paint still soft, I have never had a problem pulling paint. I also will not use anything but 3m green or fine line tape. I've had the blue hardware store stuff blow loose and cause a mess. www.advantagerefinishproducts.com/docs/790/tds/intermix-system-acrylic-urethane-tds-2015.08.pdfA few things that I learned that differ from painting cars: when you wipe the trailer down with wax and grease remover, little pieces of the towel get torn off on the screw holes and will end up in you paint, if not removed. It is hard to get body filler flat compared to a car. You can't use a heavy block and push hard or the skin bends. I used a flexible block and was disappointed that my repairs are not as flat as they should be.
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 11, 2017 15:15:28 GMT -8
I spray everything. I've seen some pretty good foam roller jobs, but most thin the heck out of the pain and put on many coats. The electric sprayer rates even lower than the roller, in my book.
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 11, 2017 14:06:26 GMT -8
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Mar 4, 2017 7:29:15 GMT -8
For some reason, gnats are attracted to fresh paint. I always keep a sharp pair of tweezers to pluck them off between coats. If they land in the final coat, I leave them and knock them off after its dry. They usually only leave a tiny set of footprints.
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 21, 2017 17:56:13 GMT -8
If you own any Classic cars and insure them through Hagerty, you can purchase their premium roadside assistance for $150 per year that covers ALL household vehicles including trailers. Up to 150 miles per tow, with an unlimited number of tows. I had AAA, but this was less expensive, because I don't have to pay a seperate fee for my wife. www.hagerty.com/insurance/hagerty-plus-roadside-service-and-benefits
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 20, 2017 11:42:35 GMT -8
It might help a little, but I doubt it will do much to cool the trailer. I have a much larger evaporative cooler and it does feel cooler if it blowing right on you, but doesn't do much for the room. Filling with ice water helps. It probably wouldn't be great for humid climates.
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 20, 2017 8:17:52 GMT -8
I would feel better using epoxy for holes. That first photo looks like corrosion?
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 19, 2017 21:19:32 GMT -8
New 12v wiring installed at the top of the curbside storage compartment. AGM battery below. Master shutoff switch inside the trailer. The socket allows me to plug in a trickle charger or solar charger.
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 19, 2017 20:17:36 GMT -8
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htchevyii
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 19, 2017 14:58:40 GMT -8
I'm just filling the most obvious dings. I straightened all that I could from the backside. I'm mostly concerned with by the entry door, that's where the most dings were and they are right where you see them.
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 17, 2017 18:46:17 GMT -8
I know that there have been some debates about body filler holding up on the thin aluminum bodies of our trailers. I bought some SEM Bumper Bite. It's is made for flexible plastic bumpers, but states that it can be used on aluminum. I'm thinking if it can handle the flexing of a plastic bumper that the trailer skin shouldn't be an issue. I applied some tonight, it spreads nice and is easy to sand. If it all cracks and falls off, I'll report back! www.semproducts.com/repair-fillers-glazes/bumper-bitetm-flexible-glaze
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htchevyii
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1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner
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Post by htchevyii on Feb 17, 2017 18:39:55 GMT -8
Aircraft paint remover is the best that I have used. Don't get in on your skin!
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