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Post by Teachndad on Mar 5, 2024 6:08:49 GMT -8
If we are all looking to see if there are shade differences in the wood, I can't see them. Once inside the trailer with the muted lighting coming in from different angles, no one would notice an almost imperceptible difference.
I am looking forward to seeing how the Rubio Monocoat works out for the overall look and application.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Mar 2, 2024 8:39:27 GMT -8
Hi Friends, An upcoming 1000 mile camping and mountain biking trip into Southern Utah necessitated a regreasing of the bearings on my 1955 Rod and Reel. It was a good thing I went in. Inner bearing seal was coated with dried grease
The original felt lined grease seal was present.
Cleaning and regreasing station.The curbside seal came off with my finger. When I pulled off the hub, the grease seal was already halfway off and I hadn’t even pulled the hub against the castle nut. The seal was caked similarly to the streetside seal. However, the color of the grease was darker on this side. Bearings and races looked good. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 22, 2024 6:40:11 GMT -8
Hi Friends,
Here is some more information. I made the mistake of opening up the hub and removing the grease seal before ordering a new seal. That meant the trailer was sitting up on a jack on one side - I live in earthquake country and we had a reminder a few days earlier...
I was going to be leaving soon for a trip I could not postpone. I wanted to get a new seal installed and the hub/wheel re-installed before I left.
Long story short, I ended up ordering seals from two different sellers and manufacturers off the Big River site hoping to get at least one seal before I left. That way, I could reinstall the hub and wheel so as not to worry that my trailer might fall off the jack during a "shaker". Two seals were from Timken and one from National. The National brand seal arrived first. I was able to install that seal during a 1 hour rain window in the middle of a storm. Note, the National brand is under the Timken umbrella. I thought, "Oh sure, they should be identical".
Boy was I wrong.
A Timken seal arrived the evening before I left. I opened up the box and immediately noticed some differences between the National seal and the Timken seal.
The National seal was lighter in weight. The Timken seal was definitely heavier. The inner nitrile on the inner diameter was more robust and the double walls for the seal were thicker. The nitrile also seemed to be more pliable but stronger if that makes sense. On the inner side of the seal was a thicker rubber o ring.
hmmmm...
I have decided that when I get back home, I will pull the National seal off the hub and replace it with the Timken seal. I just feel it's a better product especially in the long term. A little bit of extra work to save myself some possible grief down the road. (No pun intended)
So, guess which one was cheaper. Yes, the National brand seal was $11 and the Timken was $19.
You get what you pay for?
The National seal I am sure would have worked for the short term, but I certainly feel more comfortable with the more robust Timken seal. That's just me, though.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 21, 2024 19:12:54 GMT -8
Hi Friends, This thread exemplifies the way contributions help on a forum! I really appreciate all of you for pitching in with your own comments, knowledge and experience.👊
I thank you!
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 19, 2024 21:33:33 GMT -8
I like the floor Marmoleum pattern as seen in the bottom of the bed. I remember seeeing that pattern and almost went for it on my '57 Westerner. Looking forward to seeing the whole floor later with everything completed.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 19, 2024 20:10:47 GMT -8
Hi,
Someone else can confirm just to be sure. Go to vintage trailer supply and search under "Cylinder and Keys". They sell cylinders for these locks.
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 19, 2024 19:32:40 GMT -8
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 19, 2024 10:03:38 GMT -8
Thank you John,
That description no doubt took a lot of time to compose and edit. It's invaluable information.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 19, 2024 9:40:52 GMT -8
Wow! Another drool worthy interior- another 10+. From this:
To this: Touche’ Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 17, 2024 6:16:32 GMT -8
Hi Friends, For anyone researching and looking for bearing and grease seal info for a 1955 Rod and Reel with @length 17' that looks like this: Here are the bearing numbers and grease seal from the original axle. Inner bearing – Timken 2788 Outer bearing – Timken 1779 Grease Seal is a National 5970 and Modern Equivalent is a Timken 203034 Timken 203034 - Nitrile Oil Seal - Solid, 1.875 in Shaft Dia., 3.000 in OD, 0.437 in Overall Width, 203 Design, Nitrile Rubber (NBR) Lip Material Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 17, 2024 4:49:19 GMT -8
ummm yah...
NCcamper does NICE work!
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 16, 2024 9:19:26 GMT -8
Hello and Welcome, While I would like to be positive and proven wrong, your trailer sounds like the PO was a flipper. If they painted it on the outside and on the inside every nook and cranny, it matches the profile of a flipper. They buy a trailer in poor condition and dress it up with paint and not much else. Major repairs are avoided. They typically paint on the outside and on the inside. The paint on the outside makes it look all nice and pretty - making it attractive to a buyer. The paint on the inside usually hides water damage which can indicate wood rot. You commented that the paint job inside was poor. I wonder if it was to cover up something? The poor paint job tells me it was rushed and no care was put into it. Flippers often times charge thousands of dollars over what they paid for it before they move it along with minimal work. I could be wrong. Do you know anything of the history of the trailer? Pix would really help especially of the interior. We have folks on the board like hawks and can see the details that would indicate water damage. The link for how to post pix is here: vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/7276/add-photos-hosted-flickr-tutoria Vintage trailers are like a can of worms... That's one reason they call rounded 50's models CANned hams, IMHO. As for original wood used for the paneling, I will let the Shasta experts handle that one. Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 13, 2024 18:23:47 GMT -8
Hello and welcome!
These old trailers are built to utilize a combination of forces for strength.
Once the wood paneling is attached to the wall framing, the walls become stronger. Then, later, attaching the ceiling with front and rear paneling as well, manufactureres created a unit body frame which with all structural elements working together, you get quite a strong structure. The cabinets are also extremely necessary for lateral strength.
Cheers,
Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 12, 2024 6:24:38 GMT -8
Hi Friends, I know Greg, the OP has his mind made up, but I will add something to Jesse's post above for the sake of concept. My post is no way to be construed as a recommendation to go with modern. It's just some info for anyone coming along reading the thread. NCcamper restored a 1963 Shasta 1500 and Had to insert a modern dorm fridge. It was too small for the opening. He framed the opening. And finished it off this way. Cheers, Rod
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Post by Teachndad on Feb 12, 2024 6:13:45 GMT -8
Hey Jesse,
I wish I could confirm the oil residue on the pads, but I have never noticed or felt any residual oily residue on my HF clamps. They are about 4 years old now maybe even older. Even when I bought them fresh off the shelf, I didn't notice the residue on any of the HF clamps I used.
Rod
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