|
Post by danrhodes on Sept 24, 2017 11:30:48 GMT -8
I painted a black stripe to match my black truck color, but man, it gets so hot that it really stretches the skin in that area.
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 24, 2017 11:33:36 GMT -8
OH BOY, who would have thought. I do know that black attracts heat, just never figured it`d be in those amounts.
Looking at the pic; did You install screws to the top side of the siding, on the flange at the seams ?
|
|
mel
Senior Member
1964 Shasta Airflyte
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 523
Currently Offline
|
Post by mel on Sept 24, 2017 14:54:38 GMT -8
Wow, thats crazy!
|
|
|
Post by danrhodes on Sept 24, 2017 14:57:08 GMT -8
OH BOY, who would have thought. I do know that black attracts heat, just never figured it`d be in those amounts. Looking at the pic; did You install screws to the top side of the siding, on the flange at the seams ? I stapled it at the seam, just like it was built. Hoping it didn't pull free from the stress The paint on my 10 year old truck also disintegrated from the heat. Haven't seen another color look like this, but most of the black ones in my town do.
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 24, 2017 17:05:55 GMT -8
I too had stapled the top run of siding down under the lower row on the fastening flange. The first trip around the block and I could see where the staples had pulled free. I shamedly put some small screws into the siding just under the seam to hold it all together. I was on the edge of going out on the first journey with the camper and to fasten the flange down proper would have meant removing the lower J~Rails, the windows and the exterior park lamps, then fastening it down and doing the reinstall and new putty/butyl and I just did not have the time. Lesson learned, use screws to fasten down the flange on the upper half of the siding.
The wifeys old dark greyish 88 Buick has the paint coming off from all over, surface rust popping through. Looks rather shameful from what it once was. I have had opportunity to purchase other Buicks of the same vintage, bodies in real nice shape, I keep passing on them. For one, I dont think I want to go through that much work and no. 2, In a few weeks it would be just as banged up and dented as the one she now drives. LOL
|
|
|
Post by danrhodes on Sept 24, 2017 18:02:44 GMT -8
I too had stapled the top run of siding down under the lower row on the fastening flange. The first trip around the block and I could see where the staples had pulled free. I shamedly put some small screws into the siding just under the seam to hold it all together. I was on the edge of going out on the first journey with the camper and to fasten the flange down proper would have meant removing the lower J~Rails, the windows and the exterior park lamps, then fastening it down and doing the reinstall and new putty/butyl and I just did not have the time. Lesson learned, use screws to fasten down the flange on the upper half of the siding. The wifeys old dark greyish 88 Buick has the paint coming off from all over, surface rust popping through. Looks rather shameful from what it once was. I have had opportunity to purchase other Buicks of the same vintage, bodies in real nice shape, I keep passing on them. For one, I dont think I want to go through that much work and no. 2, In a few weeks it would be just as banged up and dented as the one she now drives. LOL I'd he ok if it was 88. 2007 is just sad. Toyota is not what it once was
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 24, 2017 19:47:49 GMT -8
I too had stapled the top run of siding down under the lower row on the fastening flange. The first trip around the block and I could see where the staples had pulled free. I shamedly put some small screws into the siding just under the seam to hold it all together. I was on the edge of going out on the first journey with the camper and to fasten the flange down proper would have meant removing the lower J~Rails, the windows and the exterior park lamps, then fastening it down and doing the reinstall and new putty/butyl and I just did not have the time. Lesson learned, use screws to fasten down the flange on the upper half of the siding. The wifeys old dark greyish 88 Buick has the paint coming off from all over, surface rust popping through. Looks rather shameful from what it once was. I have had opportunity to purchase other Buicks of the same vintage, bodies in real nice shape, I keep passing on them. For one, I dont think I want to go through that much work and no. 2, In a few weeks it would be just as banged up and dented as the one she now drives. LOL I'd he ok if it was 88. 2007 is just sad. Toyota is not what it once was That appears like the heat from the engine cooked the paint off from the bottom side out. Yes, that is too bad, being that new and having it look like that.
|
|
|
Post by danrhodes on Sept 24, 2017 19:53:59 GMT -8
I'd he ok if it was 88. 2007 is just sad. Toyota is not what it once was That appears like the heat from the engine cooked the paint off from the bottom side out. Yes, that is too bad, being that new and having it look like that. Yeah, except that's the roof
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 24, 2017 19:56:17 GMT -8
That appears like the heat from the engine cooked the paint off from the bottom side out. Yes, that is too bad, being that new and having it look like that. Yeah, except that's the roof OH BOY, You are right, and here I thought it was the hood. LOL
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Sept 24, 2017 21:55:55 GMT -8
Many of us have had swelling aluminum. Tasteful screws are not forbidden and help. Honestly, I'd rather see screws than floppy siding. I ALWAYS mark stud locations just in case. (window frames come in handy with a black marker dot)
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 25, 2017 15:13:21 GMT -8
Many of us have had swelling aluminum. Tasteful screws are not forbidden and help. Honestly, I'd rather see screws than floppy siding. I ALWAYS mark stud locations just in case. (window frames come in handy with a black marker dot) While I still had the studs exposed, I mapped them out and drew it on paper. Sure am glad that I did that.
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,882
Likes: 3,807
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Sept 26, 2017 15:51:46 GMT -8
Many of us have had swelling aluminum. Tasteful screws are not forbidden and help. Honestly, I'd rather see screws than floppy siding. I ALWAYS mark stud locations just in case. (window frames come in handy with a black marker dot) I make sure to use 3/4 inch staples minimum on the seam lock and I install screws in places where there is nothing holding the siding to the trailer. The Super Shasta had them originally. I added a few with the new skin. Marking the skin for studs with a ball point pen or magic marker works well.
|
|
|
Post by danrhodes on Sept 28, 2017 5:32:15 GMT -8
Many of us have had swelling aluminum. Tasteful screws are not forbidden and help. Honestly, I'd rather see screws than floppy siding. I ALWAYS mark stud locations just in case. (window frames come in handy with a black marker dot) I make sure to use 3/4 inch staples minimum on the seam lock and I install screws in places where there is nothing holding the siding to the trailer. The Super Shasta had them originally. I added a few with the new skin. Marking the skin for studs with a ball point pen or magic marker works well. I wish I had thought about the screws. I used lots of 3/4" staples and installed on a warm day, but the heat was just too much. I went out last night and the skin is flat except where it now pulled the staples out and the seam is standing up on them and won't push back down. I guess I'll need to screw through the skin right below the seam to try and pull it back down.
|
|
nccamper
Administrator
Posts: 7,818
Likes: 2,930
1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
Currently Offline
|
Post by nccamper on Sept 28, 2017 6:36:39 GMT -8
I make sure to use 3/4 inch staples minimum on the seam lock and I install screws in places where there is nothing holding the siding to the trailer. The Super Shasta had them originally. I added a few with the new skin. Marking the skin for studs with a ball point pen or magic marker works well. I wish I had thought about the screws. I used lots of 3/4" staples and installed on a warm day, but the heat was just too much. I went out last night and the skin is flat except where it now pulled the staples out and the seam is standing up on them and won't push back down. I guess I'll need to screw through the skin right below the seam to try and pull it back down. Our Forester had screws every 8" but our Shasta Compact had only three in the entire side. When I restored the Forester I put them every 16" which seems to be working. I would have never guessed that a darker color could have a huge effect.
|
|
mrmarty51
Leading Member
Posts: 1,787
Likes: 423
1972 HOMEMADE
Currently Offline
|
Post by mrmarty51 on Sept 28, 2017 15:46:41 GMT -8
I think one of those staplers that is used for roofing would be the best, if a person was going to staple the siding down.
|
|