charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Apr 29, 2017 17:12:04 GMT -8
I bought replacement brake plates for a '61 Shasta Compact, but the rim on the brake plates appears to be about 1/16" too large of a diameter to fit in the grooves that are on the hub. The old brake plates slip right in. Is there something I can do to make this work? Or can someone recommend a brand of brake plates that should work? I went the cheap route and bought from Southwest Wheel. I thought that most any 2.25" x 10" brake plate would work...and these would work if that lip would fit into the slot on the hubs.
I don't actually need brakes because my tow vehicle is a 3500hd, but I like knowing that I have brakes along with a break away switch to bring it to a stop if it ever comes loose from behind me.
I hope that I explained this clearly enough! I can provide pics if it'll help.
Charlie
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chametzoo
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Post by chametzoo on Apr 29, 2017 19:13:02 GMT -8
“Lip on new Brake Plate Won't Fit Groove in Hub”
Hmmm… from your subject line, I would suggest a marriage counselor. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
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Post by vikx on Apr 29, 2017 20:37:11 GMT -8
Detailed pix would help. It's possible you could modify to make it work. We've done some tinkering from time to time, but would have to actually 'SEE' what the problem is...
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Apr 30, 2017 4:21:06 GMT -8
I'll try to post some pic this afternoon.
Charlie
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on Apr 30, 2017 10:12:21 GMT -8
This is the back side of my hub. You can clearly see the groove that's supposed to accept the flange that's on the brake plate. This is my old brake plate. You can see the flange or "lip" that slips into the groove on the back side of the hub. And this is the old brake plate resting on the hub, with the flange easily inserted into groove on the hub. And this is the new brake plate resting on the back of the hub. It's hard to see it, but the flange on the new brake plate is just big enough that it rests on the outside edge of the channel instead of slipping inside. I'm considering grinding down the thickness of that flange to make it fit because I'm sure that's not more than 1/16" total (1/32" off of each side). Any thoughts as to why I shouldn't do that? Or any ideas as to how to better deal with it? Thanks, Charlie
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mel
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Post by mel on Apr 30, 2017 11:54:08 GMT -8
I dont have any answers, but please post up when you find the solution. I was thinking about putting new brakes on my compact too
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Apr 30, 2017 16:44:48 GMT -8
A machine shop could cut the groove in the drum wider to accommodate that flange. I also do not think that grinding on the backing plate would affect the performance of the brakes, not one bit.
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Post by vikx on Apr 30, 2017 20:37:02 GMT -8
With only 1/32nd I would grind it to fit. Maybe both pieces? That way, you're taking even less off. I am NOT a brake expert, but we've done some tinkering to make things work. Make SURE you center the grind and bolt securely. (we used a lathe)
Hopefully someone with a lot of brake experience will chime in...
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 1, 2017 4:54:16 GMT -8
A machine shop could cut the groove in the drum wider to accommodate that flange. This was my first thought as well, but then it occurred to me that brake plates are cheap and readily available, whereas a hub would be quite a bit more expensive a bit more difficult to find if I had to replace one. Actually if a new hub wasn't readily available I'd be inclined to use the old non-functioning brake plates until I could replace the entire suspension system including axle, springs, hubs, wheels, tires, etc. At any rate, if I don't see any compelling reasons to NOT grind the flange on the brake plate, I'll likely proceed down that path. The biggest problem that I see with grinding the flange is that it'll likely rust out sooner, but if I paint it before installing it I should still get a number of years of use out of the brake plates before those flanges deteriorate. Make SURE you center the grind and bolt securely. (we used a lathe) Thanks for the advice vikx, but I'm not sure that I see this as being a precision operation. When installed, the brake plate will be fixed while the hub rotates around it (another good reason I guess to modify the brake plate rather than the hub). Basically it just needs to be be ground down enough to clear the outside diameter of the channel. Or am I missing something? Thanks everyone for your thoughts & vote of confidence! Charlie Save
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ruderunner
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Post by ruderunner on May 1, 2017 4:57:46 GMT -8
I'd personally have no problem cutting the lip off the drum completely, the only reason they overlap like that is to help prevent the brakes from getting waterlogged through deep puddles, and they don't do a great job at that.
But before that, how about contacting the supplier to find out if they have different backing plates that might fit?
Or rehabbing the original brakes?
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 1, 2017 5:36:25 GMT -8
how about contacting the supplier to find out if they have different backing plates that might fit? Or rehabbing the original brakes? Good suggestions. I'd already installed the brakes, connected the wires, and tossed the packaging before discovering that the hub wouldn't fit the flanges. After all of that, I just figured that the supplier wouldn't be willing to work with me. But now that you mention it, it's worth checking into. I've sent a message to the supplier to at least give them an opportunity to respond. When I pulled one of the hubs off on one side, broken springs & other parts came falling out. Although the other old brake assembly appears to be complete, it's probably only a matter of time before springs & such start breaking in it too. I'm not much of a brake guy, and with the cost of replacement assemblies being as cheap as they are I have more confidence in new assemblies than my rehabbing abilities. But if new assemblies just don't work out, I still have the old ones and can probably find someone local that can rehab them for me. Charlie Save
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Post by bigbill on May 1, 2017 5:53:46 GMT -8
I would consider taking a hammer and striking the flange all the way around till the drum will go on with out draging on the flange, should be fairly simple to reform the edge of the backing plate in my opinion. I have done this before so I know it will work, just go slow and do a little at a time until it clears. If a 32nd will clear you probably need an 1/8 to allow for proper clearance.
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Post by bigbill on May 1, 2017 6:08:13 GMT -8
Another thing you could do is install the drum on the spindle with the backing plate removed then take a small motor like a 1/4 or1/3 horse attach it to a 2x8 a couple feet long, next put a small pulley on it the place a v belt around the drum and the pulley, pull belt tight set a weight on the 2x. this will turn the drum then use a grinder or carbide burr to open the groove. BECAREFUL I also have seen people grind the entire outer ring off of a drum to make it work
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 1, 2017 6:08:37 GMT -8
I would consider taking a hammer and striking the flange all the way around till the drum will go on with out draging on the flange... bigbill I considered this as well, but I was afraid that it might buckle the rest of the plate rather than reform the edge. Plus I wasn't sure how to hold the assembly fast while hammering. Did you do this while mounted on the axle or by other means? Looks like there are options, and I'm glad to hear from someone who apparently ran into the same issue before! Charlie Save
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Post by bigbill on May 1, 2017 6:17:19 GMT -8
I would consider taking a hammer and striking the flange all the way around till the drum will go on with out draging on the flange... bigbill I considered this as well, but I was afraid that it might buckle the rest of the plate rather than reform the edge. Plus I wasn't sure how to hold the assembly fast while hammering. Did you do this while mounted on the axle or by other means? Looks like there are options, and I'm glad to hear from someone who apparently ran into the same issue before! Charlie SaveCharlie I would do it fastened to the axle go slow working your way around the plate don't try to do it all with a few hits. You probably should put a jack under the axle to make it more solid. Keep your strikes close together don't try to do a large area at one time, you can do it. As for see it before I've been playing with this stuff for sixty years, sometimes I think I have seen everything at least twice then something new pops up.
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