mrmarty51
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1972 HOMEMADE
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Post by mrmarty51 on May 1, 2017 10:44:11 GMT -8
bigbill I considered this as well, but I was afraid that it might buckle the rest of the plate rather than reform the edge. Plus I wasn't sure how to hold the assembly fast while hammering. Did you do this while mounted on the axle or by other means? Looks like there are options, and I'm glad to hear from someone who apparently ran into the same issue before! Charlie SaveCharlie I would do it fastened to the axle go slow working your way around the plate don't try to do it all with a few hits. You probably should put a jack under the axle to make it more solid. Keep your strikes close together don't try to do a large area at one time, you can do it. As for see it before I've been playing with this stuff for sixty years, sometimes I think I have seen everything at least twice then something new pops up. And if the shoes and components are removed from the backing plates and a torch is available, the flange can be heated causing it to bend a lot easier. cherry red is good.
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Post by vikx on May 1, 2017 20:16:21 GMT -8
No, you didn't miss anything. My resident machinist guru is a stickler for details...
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 3, 2017 4:35:59 GMT -8
Just a quick update. I ended up going the "grinding down the thickness of the flange" route. I worked on both brake plates until they fit the hubs with a reasonable amount of clearance and proceeded to install one on the axle and slip on the hub with newly packed bearing & seal. I figured that there was going to need to be some more grinding in select spots, so it was no surprise to me when the hub was bound tight after tightening & loosening the castle nut. So I proceeded to remove the hub by pulling it toward me and giving it a good nudge to try to get it to rotate...and that's when I did get a surprise. You see the flange on the new brake plate doesn't go all the way around the perimeter like the old brake plate. Instead there are two gaps as you see below: And the surprise that I found? Did you know that you can see stars in broad daylight if your fingertip happens to be poking through one of those openings at the instant that a heavy steel (iron?) hub decides to break loose and turn around the spindle? And it's a pretty good feeling when you realize that the tip of your finger is still indeed attached. Plus the wife will get a bit upset when you run through the house dripping bodily fluids while trying to get to the bathroom. Pretty neat stuff! So now I'm thinking that ruderunner makes an EXCELLENT point: Or rehabbing the original brakes? After studying these brakes a bit and finding an old brake tool in my toolbox that used to belong to my dad, I'm going to at least give this a good attempt. One of the old brake assemblies is complete, and the other is missing only the adjuster and that spring that holds the shoes together across the adjuster. The shoes still have enough life left in them, but both will need new electromagnets. After studying them a bit, it looks like the components on the new assemblies just might all fit on the old plates. That's what I intend to attempt next, but it'll be a few days before I have time to spend on it. The "complete" old brake plate for reference: Charlie Save
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Post by bigbill on May 3, 2017 6:11:56 GMT -8
What it appears that you have learned is two things. First becareful what hole you stick your fingers in and second don't turn drum while pulling off Those open spots allow you to check shoe clearance and wear. look at the shape and hole locations/size of both old and new shoes if they match then they will interchange next compare spring anchor points if all is the same you are in business.
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charliemyers
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Post by charliemyers on May 10, 2017 4:34:53 GMT -8
So what did I end up doing? After a good cleaning & inspection of the old brakes, I determined that the critical components (shoes & magnets) had enough life left to continue using for a while yet. The old brake assemblies did have a few components that were missing or too far deteriorated to re-use (adjusters, adjuster springs, and the shoe hold-down springs), so I replaced those with parts from the new brake assemblies. They're now installed, but I haven't yet connected the wires or tested the brakes under tow conditions.
Just for reference in case it's helpful to someone else, in my case I'm convinced that all parts from the new assemblies would have worked on the old brake backing plate with one exception: the actuating arm. On my assemblies, the bushing in the new actuating arm was a little larger than the post on the old backing plate that it mounts onto. But it does have a bushing which can be pressed out, and I'm sure that most any machine shop could turn out an appropriately sized bushing to give it a more snug fit.
I didn't specifically take pictures during much of this process because my greasy and our digital cameras don't go well together. But if anyone wants pictures of anything in particular, let me know and I'll see what I can do.
Charlie
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on May 10, 2017 5:40:03 GMT -8
The Ace Hardware store here has all kinds of bushings of varying sizes. Might be that they would have something that`d be a perfect fit. If You find a bushing that the OD is slightly large, a bolt or screw caan be passed through the bushing, a nut tightened onto it, then chucked into a drill or drill press and then sanded down to the proper dimension. Rememer though, it takes a lot of sanding to remove a thousandths of an inch.
You too can hook a battery direct to the electro magnets and test them, if the magnets are not yet mounted and or drums not installed, an article of steel, a wrench or screw driver, can be placed onto the magnet while it is hooked to a good battery to test it for magnetism.If steel sticks to magnets then the magnets are probably okay. If the drums are installed, the wires can be connected to a battery then try turning the drums. If the drums do not turn, then magnets are probably okay.
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