nccamper
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1962 Forester- 1956 Shasta
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Post by nccamper on Feb 6, 2017 9:42:25 GMT -8
Picked up my Paint from Ace. It was a bit tricky but I picked out a color swatch from the current Ace paint and they called up "headquarters paint people" and they translated it to the oil tints. We had to adjust it slightly after. With a good prep job and up to three weeks to cure 100% (Like any oil enamel) Ace is a tough, good looking paint. A shame it will soon be gone. |
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mel
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1964 Shasta Airflyte
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Post by mel on Feb 6, 2017 9:50:31 GMT -8
nccamper how much paint did you use for the compact and 1500?? I was thinking about buying the ace paint now for both trailers. Do you think that would be a bad idea if its going to be sitting a while. The compact should be painted this summer, but the airflyte wont for sure.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 6, 2017 10:15:25 GMT -8
nccamper how much paint did you use for the compact and 1500?? I was thinking about buying the ace paint now for both trailers. Do you think that would be a bad idea if its going to be sitting a while. The compact should be painted this summer, but the airflyte wont for sure. I'm no expert but I wouldn't leave an oil enamel paint sitting more than six months. It separates forming a gummy top layer, if you know what I mean? A full gallon will last much longer than a half used gallon. A half gallon for the bottom color, a little more than half gallon for the color above the Z and a gallon (you won't use it all) of the primer. The primer needs to be the one specifically made for aluminum. It says it prominently on the can. I believe the can is gray. If you're painting white you should tint the primer slightly to be an off-white. Otherwise it's a little difficult to see if the paint is covered properly. Does that make sense? As I've said before, the slightly muted gloss of Ace Gloss enamel is great at hiding minor ding and imperfections. For comparison, if you have $500+ for auto paint it's by far the best but with a high gloss you'll see every little ding. On new Hemet Valley skin, I'd use automotive paint. What the heck, you've already spent $2000 on new skin. |
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CorvettCrzy
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'58 Corvette, '64 Franklin
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Post by CorvettCrzy on Feb 6, 2017 20:48:42 GMT -8
nccamper I read through a gazillion paint threads a couple years back and I revisited yours recently to refresh my memory. The one thing that stood out for me was the requirement of "treating" the aluminum to take the paint. It was one of the main reasons why I wanted to go with the Ace enamel (the combination of their aluminum primer and oil paint) as you mentioned in your paint instructions, seems to be a proven combination. I'm wondering what you will prep the aluminum with for the automotive paint? Also curious what the Valspar people are going to use.
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Post by danrhodes on Feb 6, 2017 21:13:03 GMT -8
nccamper I read through a gazillion paint threads a couple years back and I revisited yours recently to refresh my memory. The one thing that stood out for me was the requirement of "treating" the aluminum to take the paint. It was one of the main reasons why I wanted to go with the Ace enamel (the combination of their aluminum primer and oil paint) as you mentioned in your paint instructions, seems to be a proven combination. I'm wondering what you will prep the aluminum with for the automotive paint? Also curious what the Valspar people are going to use. I'm on the fence with Valspar. Many metal implements were painted directly with no primer at all. I'm leaning to just cleaning the existing paint well, touching up the bare areas with a can of Rust-Oleum etching aluminum primer and going for it. |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 7, 2017 6:02:56 GMT -8
nccamper I read through a gazillion paint threads a couple years back and I revisited yours recently to refresh my memory. The one thing that stood out for me was the requirement of "treating" the aluminum to take the paint. It was one of the main reasons why I wanted to go with the Ace enamel (the combination of their aluminum primer and oil paint) as you mentioned in your paint instructions, seems to be a proven combination. I'm wondering what you will prep the aluminum with for the automotive paint? Also curious what the Valspar people are going to use. I'm on the fence with Valspar. Many metal implements were painted directly with no primer at all. I'm leaning to just cleaning the existing paint well, touching up the bare areas with a can of Rust-Oleum etching aluminum primer and going for it. I think it was Bigbill who advised me that mixing and matching primers and paint from different manufacturers was a risky game. It may work out great but there is a risk. I painted a camper a couple of years ago with ACE and I recently heard from the people that bought it and they are thrilled. After thousands of miles the camper hasn't had a single issue and the ACE paint looks great. People on this forum have used Rustoleum with very good results. Maybe they will chime in. "I'm wondering what you will prep the aluminum with for the automotive paint?"According to the manufacturer spec sheet, and the people who sell the paint, I can buff the existing (new) white paint on the Hemet skin with 400 grit dry or 500 wet and use it as my base (primer) coat. If the aluminum was bare I would need to spray a PPG primer for non-ferrous metals. Today I'm experimenting with old leftover pieces of Hemet skin. The weather is changing in an odd way here. One day it is a low of 24 and high 52, then low 58 and high 74 the next. The trees are starting to bud in early February instead of April which is not good. Pollen=no painting. |
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cree62
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Post by cree62 on Feb 8, 2017 4:25:37 GMT -8
I have a quick question in regards to primers; I am using the Ace oil based enamel and will be using the latex based primer that was recommended for the new roof I am putting on. My question is what I should do with the rest of the camper. The current paint is not in bad condition. I am planning on a light sanding but most likely not down to bare aluminum. The primer says it should only be used on bare aluminum, so should I just paint directly over the previous paint once I sand it a bit?
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Feb 8, 2017 5:24:22 GMT -8
I have a quick question in regards to primers; I am using the Ace oil based enamel and will be using the latex based primer that was recommended for the new roof I am putting on. My question is what I should do with the rest of the camper. The current paint is not in bad condition. I am planning on a light sanding but most likely not down to bare aluminum. The primer says it should only be used on bare aluminum, so should I just paint directly over the previous paint once I sand it a bit? The safe way to go is call the number on the can at ACE Technical department. My amateur opinion is that oil enamel can be painted over a solid sub-surface if it is sanded to remove gloss and leave a surface rough enough for the paint to have a solid bond. I'd wash it with something like TPS, rinse really well, let dry a day, wipe down with denatured alcohol an hour or two before painting. If you are removing anything like road tar or grease, I'd wipe it down with lacquer thinner before washing. But to double check, call the tech people if there is a number. |
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