rambler64
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Post by rambler64 on Oct 19, 2016 9:58:54 GMT -8
I have preped for paint the outside of my 1960 Franklin Coachman 18ft TT. She is so ugly I am having trouble loving her enough to get her road ready. Need folks to let me know how their use of spray paint from can went?  |
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Post by vintagebruce on Oct 19, 2016 10:32:25 GMT -8
 to VTT! There has been much discussion about painting techniques, selection of paint and the pros and cons of having a professional do the paint job here within the threads of VTT. My initial thought regarding spray paint from a can to paint a camper the size of your Franklin is that it might not be as cost effective as other options. I have to admit, I agree with your implied impression that the current paint scheme on the Franklin does not wow the onlooker. Before you start painting I hope you do a bit of research and try and find a lot of color combinations and different graphics (designs) of two and even three tone paint schemes on similar models, including many models with a trunk. You might even ask the members to post some photos of their favorite paint schemes that they think might be attractive on your Franklin. Then I would suggest you look up references to the "famous" $50 Paint job for vintage campers. At one time it might have been possible to paint a camper for that, but inflation will not permit it at this point except for possibly only the smallest compact campers. Our member nccamper has produced a tutorial that I would like to point you toward for consideration. As far as painting your Franklin with spray cans, I have no direct experience. Maybe other Members who have done that will comment. I believe you could go 3 tone on the Franklin using nccamper's tutorial techniques and come out with a great looking Franklin for about the same cost as the spray can route. Some similar shaped campers utilize two or even three narrow stripes on a solid color background with a nice result. You don't have to go bottom half one color and upper a different color. Have some fun with it! I like the overall shape of your Franklin. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/5166/paint-camper-200Just to be the first with a possible scheme...it might not be your cup of tea, but using different colors, this sure seems to have "perked up" the appearance of this Franklin. media-cache-ec0.pinimg.com/736x/4e/53/9f/4e539f23604cc452359c542b71775998.jpg
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Post by vikx on Oct 20, 2016 20:40:23 GMT -8
Rattle can paint sometimes works well for narrow stripes, about 14" or less. Depends on the paint, metallic works well on embossed metal and gloss if the metal is smooth. (a pattern is OK, just not embossed)
The spray cans don't work very well on large areas, as you lose the gloss. Overspray as you go dulls the area next to what you are painting. Also, every can is slightly different and some even spit globs, so you take the chance of ruining a pretty fair paint job with that last faulty can.
Satin works better than high gloss if you have dents and dings. It also blends better as you go than gloss.
We have been using an air sprayer with very good results. Personally, I like spray better than rolled on paint.
Some others have had good luck with foam rollers, they will probably chime in.
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Post by danrhodes on Oct 24, 2016 12:39:21 GMT -8
Since the title of this post is pretty generic, I'll ask my "paint talk" question...anyone find an inexpensive oil based paint such as rustoleum in an "antique white" or "heirloom white"? Wife isn't a fan of stark white and wants a more creamy look, but I'd prefer to buy paint off the shelf if possible. Rustoleum makes it in rattle cans and latex, but not oil that I can find.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Oct 24, 2016 15:50:31 GMT -8
I had the same issue which is why I went with Ace. They added gray to High Hiding White oil enamel. It does make touch up work more complex.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 3, 2016 21:08:36 GMT -8
Current plan is Valspar IH white. Anyone used it? How creamy? Based on online color Chios, it's anywhere from cream to beige.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 4, 2016 5:41:58 GMT -8
Current plan is Valspar IH white. Anyone used it? How creamy? Based on online color Chios, it's anywhere from cream to beige. I can't answer your question but I can ask a new one. Is it an oil based enamel? From what I've heard, latex is not a good way to go. And are you using a primer specially formulated for nonferrous metals? As far as color is concerned, I buy a quart and try it on a piece of flashing. They can always adjust it. Once you start spraying, you're committed. My secret to finding the perfect color? "Baby, what do you think of the color on the test piece? Nice?" Wife, "I don't like it." My answer, "I hate it too!" |
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 4, 2016 7:36:34 GMT -8
Current plan is Valspar IH white. Anyone used it? How creamy? Based on online color Chios, it's anywhere from cream to beige. I can't answer your question but I can ask a new one. Is it an oil based enamel? From what I've heard, latex is not a good way to go. And are you using a primer specially formulated for nonferrous metals? As far as color is concerned, I buy a quart and try it on a piece of flashing. They can always adjust it. Once you start spraying, you're committed. My secret to finding the perfect color? "Baby, what do you think of the color on the test piece? Nice?" Wife, "I don't like it." My answer, "I hate it too!" Yes, it is the oil enamel tractor and implement paint that Tractor Supply used to carry. Apparently they switched to a lower quality paint (Majic?), but you can get Valspar on Amazon for a few bucks more. I've found a few examples of people using it on vintage trailers, including one on RYT (but he brushed it on). It comes in all old tractor colors, including International Harvester white which is more of a creamy color. I wasn't even planning on priming. Many say you can just paint it right on over the old, clean and sanded paint. Apparently most tractors weren't primed either. I'm not looking for showroom quality...am also still contemplating just rattle can painting it...  |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 4, 2016 7:44:38 GMT -8
As long as no aluminum is showing I don't see why you couldn't paint over it. But I'm no expert.
If you going to go through the prep of masking and covering everything, spraying is much easier. Suzie Q had good results with rattle cans but it took her forever. With a compressor it takes about an hour to spray in entire camper once the prep is done.
The inside of your camper is beautiful, why not take time and spray the camper? Unless you plan on painting this year? In which case tick-tock, time is running short.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 4, 2016 8:05:12 GMT -8
The inside of your camper is beautiful, why not take time and spray the camper? Unless you plan on painting this year? In which case tick-tock, time is running short. Mostly fear. I need to have it totally built and towable by the end of the month, so I'll probably finish up the exterior trim and J-rail, then maybe try and paint next month. I don't really have much of a weather problem with painting in winter in "100 year drought" land. |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 4, 2016 8:21:34 GMT -8
The inside of your camper is beautiful, why not take time and spray the camper? Unless you plan on painting this year? In which case tick-tock, time is running short. Mostly fear. I need to have it totally built and towable by the end of the month, so I'll probably finish up the exterior trim and J-rail, then maybe try and paint next month. I don't really have much of a weather problem with painting in winter in "100 year drought" land. One thing you might want to consider, oil enamel takes time to dry. Up to 21 days to be fully cured. I know, it sounds unbelievable. But it's really true. A week after painting you can press your nail gently and make an indent. After three weeks it is much tougher. It might harden faster in the desert but here, with humidity between 50 and 80%, it took time. |
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 4, 2016 8:27:26 GMT -8
Mostly fear. I need to have it totally built and towable by the end of the month, so I'll probably finish up the exterior trim and J-rail, then maybe try and paint next month. I don't really have much of a weather problem with painting in winter in "100 year drought" land. One thing you might want to consider, oil enamel takes time to dry. Up to 21 days to be fully cured. I know, it sounds unbelievable. But it's really true. A week after painting you can press your nail gently and make an indent. After three weeks it is much tougher. It might harden faster in the desert but here, with humidity between 50 and 80%, it took time. Have you ever tried a hardener? Valspar sells one for use with their paint. Supposed to both cure faster and also give a better finish with less orangepeel. I've been reading your tutorial everyday this week, but I'm wondering if you have a recommendation for how much paint to buy for a small 13 foot sized camper? I would think 3 quarts would be enough after thinning, but wouldn't want to get stuck short. |
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 4, 2016 8:46:50 GMT -8
I use about 2/3 of your gallon of white on the upper half and roof and about a half a gallon on the colored lower part.
I've considered a hardner but you have to move fast when you're painting. Auto paint comes with the hardner and does a beautiful job if you can afford it.
You'll be surprised how easy it is to use the spray gun. Once you get rolling it's amazingly fast and the finish is smooth. My advice, have a helper on hand to mix paint, move the hose while you spray and adjust the compressor if needed. Stopping to shift a ladder, etc, makes it much harder than it needs to be.
And if you are doing a two tone paint job, a polished stripe let's you tape without touching new paint. Without it, leave time between top and bottom or use a hardener.
On a side note, I received an email from the person who bought my compact and the oil enamel paint looks great after two years and thousands of miles.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 4, 2016 9:58:36 GMT -8
Now a quick question to vikx Do you paint over OSI gutter seal? I don't think the white color will go with an off white paint job unless I'm really careful with the application. Do you have a photo of what the top of a j-rail and window frame look like after you've applied OSI 121? |
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Post by vikx on Nov 4, 2016 20:43:12 GMT -8
We have painted over OSI and it looks fine. Oasis trailers are infamous for leaking at the front seams under the window curve, so that is very well sealed before the J rail goes on.
That being said, I use OSI Clear that comes in the little tube, not a caulk tube. It is so clear it's hard to see to smooth it. Very elusive stuff. LOL. Haven't used it on windows, just the top of the J rail.
Photobucket is down right now, I'll see if I have a photo anywhere.
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to VTT! There has been much discussion about painting techniques, selection of paint and the pros and cons of having a professional do the paint job here within the threads of VTT. My initial thought regarding spray paint from a can to paint a camper the size of your Franklin is that it might not be as cost effective as other options. I have to admit, I agree with your implied impression that the current paint scheme on the Franklin does not wow the onlooker. Before you start painting I hope you do a bit of research and try and find a lot of color combinations and different graphics (designs) of two and even three tone paint schemes on similar models, including many models with a trunk. You might even ask the members to post some photos of their favorite paint schemes that they think might be attractive on your Franklin. Then I would suggest you look up references to the "famous" $50 Paint job for vintage campers. At one time it might have been possible to paint a camper for that, but inflation will not permit it at this point except for possibly only the smallest compact campers. Our member nccamper has produced a tutorial that I would like to point you toward for consideration.
