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Post by bigbill on May 19, 2015 17:33:37 GMT -8
Some of their tools are better than the name brands some are not I like to look them up in the online catalog by number then read the reviews they are not edited sometimes they say a certain model is junk and another model is not. also sometimes there aren't any reviews but I like to check before I buy if the tools is of a higher cost.
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gary350
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Post by gary350 on Nov 18, 2015 15:46:52 GMT -8
I have both of those tools. My opinion is you need both but it also depends on what your making.
The miter saw is fast and accurate to cut boards to length like rebuilding cabinets and cutting new wall and ceiling studs. Cutting parts for kitchen drawers. This is a cross cut saw not made to cut board length way. I paid $200 for this and could not live without it.
Table saw, Why pay $2 each for 1x2 boards when you can make your own from a $5 2x6 board. Also the table saw is great for making any size board by cutting another board down to the size you need. I have a cheap $100 table saw it really SUCKS but it does the job. Buy a GOOD used nice table saw on craigslist you will be glad you did.
I also have a cheap $100 band saw that is very helpful for many things.
I have a cheap $100 wood planner too that does an good job to make boards smooth as glass and the correct size.
Also I have a 1" wide by 42" belt sander that I could not live without.
I have a nice light weight 7" hand saw too.
I have a hand jib saw that is more useful than the band saw.
I have 4 electric drills this is a great time saver to have each drill doing its own job so I don't have to keep switching out drill sizes, screw driver bits, etc.
I have 2 routers, the small one is much better than the larger one.
1 TOOL DOES NOT MAKE A WORK SHOP.
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Post by bigbill on Nov 18, 2015 16:24:38 GMT -8
After reading all of the comments, this is my thoughts. My grandfather if he was still alive would be 135 years old, he built entire houses with hand saws, hand planes, chisels, and a hand brace and bits. This proves that all the power tools mentioned here are not needed. The only reason for owning power tools is if you wish to do it faster and easier. This is why a lazy person like me owns over a hundred thousand dollars worth of tools that have been acquired over the last 60 or so years. do I need them all probably not but if I want to do something I most likely can from welding up a new chassis to cabinet work, the only thing I lack at this stage of my life is the energy to do it.  To quote my spouse it all goes in the sale some day and will bring about five or ten cents on the dollar but at least she always knows where I am at and that I'm not out chasing other woman because I spent all my money on tools.
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ripcitysiesta
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Post by ripcitysiesta on Nov 18, 2015 16:25:21 GMT -8
When I was in my 20s I was helping a friend build a wood strip canoe and he always said to me "with a table saw and a router you can build damn near anything" this from a guy that built custom furniture for 30 years. It always stuck with me.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 18, 2015 20:04:24 GMT -8
Today I used my table saw to cut perfect strips from birch panels.
Yet in Haiti when the power goes out...which is often... hand tool rule.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Nov 18, 2015 20:28:00 GMT -8
bigbill, like you my grandfather was a craftsman who depended on his wall mounted tool box filled with hand tools to do magic with wood. I followed in his footsteps, building historically correct horse drawn carriages for museums and the movie industry, restored wooden boats on SF bay, and like him had a 'wall mounted' filled with hand tools. I bought my first table saw when I was in my 20s and swore I would never rip another plank with a hand saw no matter how historically pure it might have been to do so. My power tools, over the years helped me be price competitive and more accurate. I doubt if a lazy person would ever even attempt to rebuild a canned ham, so I think you probably suffer the same disease as I and many others... your shop full of tools exists because you want accuracy and because you love tools. Speaking of your wife and the sale when you're gone, not unlike my Christine when she sees equipment in the shop she can't even recognize, I'll bet neither woman complains when we can fix anything; no need to call a contractor/handy man/anyone, because we have the tool to do the job (if we can find it)...
To the newbies just starting to tool up; if you have no interest in this kind of repair beyond one project, then by all means just get a jig saw, skill saw and a sander of some sort. Even buy them from HF, because they need only last as long as this project. It probably won't matter how accurate they are because you just need to fix something and however it fits is how it fits. But if this kind of work appeals to you, you don't have to spend a bunch of bucks to get decent tools, meaning non plastic, last a long time, easy to adjust stuff. I truly don't mean to denigrate anyone who has mastered the art of either hand tool skills, or spending skills to match their budgets, but also consider this; there are safety factors designed into equipment designed to do certain tasks that as a newcomer to the requirements of rebuilding a trailer you might be risking without said equipment. You can find decent tools pretty inexpensively, but ask yourself, if you have to pay $90 bucks or so for lets say a brand name grinder and HF advertises one for $15, what are you getting? If all you need it for is to find that elusive VIN number then go for it, or better yet borrow it. But if you are going to keep it in that tool box you will be disappointed when you really need it. OK, sorry about the rant. And I shop at HF. And I'm really digging their bottom of the line HVLP gravity spray gun I got for $9.99 for shooting shellac. Don't know how long it will last, but I clean it after every use and "it's lookin' good so far".
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 18, 2015 20:37:58 GMT -8
"I'm really digging their bottom of the line HVLP gravity spray gun I got for $9.99 for shooting shellac."
Does the spray gun put on a nice, thin even coat? Is there an overspray issue with such a thin liquid?
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Nov 18, 2015 20:43:59 GMT -8
It does! They have 2 models, one for "automotive" paint (you don't want that one)and this one for thin stuff. There is still some overspray, but nothing like my qt. cup siphon feed. You'll have to watch the ads for the $9.99 deal and I got mine a few months ago, but I get their mailer and I saw it again on sale recently. It has a purple handle.
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Post by vikx on Nov 18, 2015 22:57:01 GMT -8
Guess I'm spoiled. With a wealth of automotive tools at my disposal (machinist family member), I can't work with a wrench that isn't QUALITY. Drives me nuts. Yeah, funny pun.
I like good tools. Some are more important than others for accuracy. My driver drills need to be strong and drive true, the cheaper HF sliding chop saw does just fine for most applications. The table saw needs to be exact. I rip my own pieces as well.
Oddly, I've found that a lot of my 18 volt tools are very good for vintage trailers. They fit and little jobs are quickly completed.
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Post by bigbill on Nov 19, 2015 3:28:08 GMT -8
vikx Yes once you get used to the feel of a Mac or Snap-on wrench in your hand cheap wrenches feel clumsy. But the full polished wrenches from HF feel close and seem to hold up fairly well. I use them in my travel box that that way if it gets "borrowed" I'm not out as much.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 19, 2015 6:01:21 GMT -8
It does! They have 2 models, one for "automotive" paint (you don't want that one)and this one for thin stuff. There is still some overspray, but nothing like my qt. cup siphon feed. You'll have to watch the ads for the $9.99 deal and I got mine a few months ago, but I get their mailer and I saw it again on sale recently. It has a purple handle. Can you give us a quick tutorial? Do you only shoot boards laying flat, or can you get a thin enough coat on vertical boards to avoid drips? Do you thin? What capacity compressor do you use? How is the final texture? Please excuse the question bomb, but I also hope to spray since I'm doing whole walls, laying flat Also, since this has become tool talk, I really like the new 12v lithium stuff from Bosch and Milwaukee. Enough power for any trailer job, but compact enough to fit in a tool belt and get inside a small cabinet and light enough to avoid any arm fatigue. I have Bosch stuff, but the Milwalkee driver/hackzall kit is on sale right now...I use the sawzall for all the stuff you guys use multitools for (cutting that is) and often reach for it instead of a miter saw just because it's convenient. www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-3-8-in-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Hackzall-Combo-Kit-2493-22/206284103?cm_mmc=CJ-_-1225267-_-10368321&AID=10368321&PID=1225267&SID=9bb8b9c48ef311e588efba24aefbf9300INT&cj=true
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Nov 19, 2015 20:00:48 GMT -8
danrhodes, ya, I shoot my panels flat on a table, but the gun works great both horizontal and vertical. Light coats are the ticket. I thin the shellac by about 25% for the first few coats so they dry fast and 220 sand between. A couple more coats at about 10% gives me the color I want and then a couple of coats of clear sealer give a good shine. For my ceiling panels I stop there but for the cabinets and dinette seats I steel wool with 0000 and then rub on some minwax
www.minwax.com/wood-products/specialty-finishes/minwax-paste-finishing-wax
Makes it feel good to the touch and hopefully resist greasy little fingers. Watch the humidity when you shoot because cool and dry seems to work best. I was going through a lot of shellac with my qt siphon gun but this little hvlp is like a Prius; good mileage. I'm using a 10 year old 2 1/2 horse 5 gallon compressor at 40#. It runs almost the whole time to keep up so I shoot maybe half the panel then wait 30-40 seconds for it to catch up before continuing. I do not have problems with overspray fuzz on the first shot areas after the pause.
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Post by danrhodes on Nov 20, 2015 8:25:13 GMT -8
danrhodes, ya, I shoot my panels flat on a table, but the gun works great both horizontal and vertical. Light coats are the ticket. I thin the shellac by about 25% for the first few coats so they dry fast and 220 sand between. A couple more coats at about 10% gives me the color I want and then a couple of coats of clear sealer give a good shine. For my ceiling panels I stop there but for the cabinets and dinette seats I steel wool with 0000 and then rub on some minwax
www.minwax.com/wood-products/specialty-finishes/minwax-paste-finishing-wax
Makes it feel good to the touch and hopefully resist greasy little fingers. Watch the humidity when you shoot because cool and dry seems to work best. I was going through a lot of shellac with my qt siphon gun but this little hvlp is like a Prius; good mileage. I'm using a 10 year old 2 1/2 horse 5 gallon compressor at 40#. It runs almost the whole time to keep up so I shoot maybe half the panel then wait 30-40 seconds for it to catch up before continuing. I do not have problems with overspray fuzz on the first shot areas after the pause. Do you recall the max pressure of your gun? There are two in the HF ad right now, both purple. I assume the 50psi unit which is now $15, vs the 45psi which is $30 (left middle, page 9) www.harborfreight.com/monthly-ad
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Nov 20, 2015 10:17:07 GMT -8
Dan, mine is the model 47016. Fortunately I saved the box and it says air consumption: 6CFM@40 PSI Required pressure: 50-70PSI. My shellac mix works well at 40# give or take. The gun (any gun) is kind of a pain because, especially with shellac, you must take it apart and clean it after use. I've let it sit for the hour or so I wait between coats and that doesn't seem to bother it but I definitely need to clean it at the end of the day. The cup has a fine filter inside which I remove and soak to get clean. I think you'll like this gun.
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nccamper
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Post by nccamper on Nov 20, 2015 14:41:33 GMT -8
I'm surprised the gun doesn't gum up between coats if you don't clean it. Excellent.
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