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Post by danrhodes on Nov 23, 2015 13:40:11 GMT -8
Dan, mine is the model 47016. Fortunately I saved the box and it says air consumption: 6CFM@40 PSI Required pressure: 50-70PSI. My shellac mix works well at 40# give or take. The gun (any gun) is kind of a pain because, especially with shellac, you must take it apart and clean it after use. I've let it sit for the hour or so I wait between coats and that doesn't seem to bother it but I definitely need to clean it at the end of the day. The cup has a fine filter inside which I remove and soak to get clean. I think you'll like this gun. Picked one up today... Hopefully will get to use it next month.
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cowcharge
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Post by cowcharge on Oct 25, 2016 10:30:11 GMT -8
I'm using my dad's old Craftsman Model 113 10" contractor-style (motor hangs out the back) table saw that he bought in the 50s to finish building his house with. I had to clean up and oil the threads for the tilt and lift knobs, put a new belt, blade and some new motor mount bolts on, and it has a bad fence that you have to nudge the far end into place on, but you can do a hell of a lot with a table saw besides ripping. It's just like this one, but it doesn't have wings or the official table, and I haven't begun to take it all apart to restore it like this guy did (yet). But it cuts nice and should easily last the rest of my lifetime. I do need to get a new motor pulley for it as the old one is a tad bent, but there are tons of them on Ebay, along with official wings if I want to buy rather than build. Lots of these saws on craigslist, and they have a nice cast iron top, and no plastic.   I also have a Craftsman chop saw that my brother-in-law gave me, but it's not a compound, and the bearings wobble a bit. Went to wallyworld last weekend and bought an oscillating cutter just to do one cut with, LOL. But it was only 25 bucks with a package of different cutting blades, and worked slick.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Oct 25, 2016 20:07:56 GMT -8
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bev
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Post by bev on Oct 28, 2016 3:33:01 GMT -8
its not one or the other in my opinion. you need both. they serve different purposes. if it were me i would purchase both. buy cheap or used ones and then upgrade as needed bc you will definitely used them. try doing cabinetry without a miter saw or even trim. then try do cut straight narrow pieces of plywood without table saw. again, u need both. good luck.
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Poquito
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Post by Poquito on Nov 12, 2016 7:34:34 GMT -8
I lucked out and bought a used 10" table saw for $40 that is on wheels and is easy to move out of the way when I'm not using it. I also like to have my miter saw for quick chops. It is portable so I can move it around as I need to. I keep both handy when I'm doing wood work. The table saw is good for long boards and wide boards. Wide boards will not fit my miter saw so that is limited to certain cuts.Otherwise I have to cut flip and cut the other side. Hubby asked me to cut a 12' 4x4 recently and left it leaning against my table saw - something like that was a piece of cake on my miter saw on the ground - I did not need a helper or extra table for support. All in all they both pay for themselves over and over. I did not pay more than $100 for my miter saw but can't remember how much I paid for it new. Miter is over 4 years old. Do not know how old the table saw is. I did buy a new fine cabinet saw blade $10 for the table saw for when I start the interior wall and cabinet wood work.
Poquito
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Post by vikx on Nov 12, 2016 22:08:44 GMT -8
I bought a sliding miter saw from HF a few years back and use it for everything but ripping. Once in a while, I'll use the radial arm to notch something but it's always the miter I go to. Unhappy with the quality of HF tools, but the motor is good. Little things keep breaking and no repair parts. Since it's in the lean-to, and in damp air, perfect home for it. I mostly rip with the table saw, and it does come in handy...
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bev
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Post by bev on Nov 13, 2016 3:43:31 GMT -8
I bought a sliding miter saw from HF a few years back and use it for everything but ripping. Once in a while, I'll use the radial arm to notch something but it's always the miter I go to. Unhappy with the quality of HF tools, but the motor is good. Little things keep breaking and no repair parts. Since it's in the lean-to, and in damp air, perfect home for it. I mostly rip with the table saw, and it does come in handy... vixx, if you upgrade i suggest the dewalt 12" dual bevel. i have had 3 over the years. i had the dewalt 12 " slider years back and got rid of it bc the added capacity wasn't worth the size, weight and the accuracy for cabinets doors wasn't as good as the dewalt dual bevel nonslider. I only noticed a difference bc of the many hundreds of cabinet doors I made with it. the delta and rigid miter saws were never as refined the dewalt. you have to cut with all the saws to actually see the difference.
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Post by vikx on Nov 13, 2016 21:15:30 GMT -8
Thanks Bev,
I like good quality tools but not in my lean to. It's just too damp out there... I use the slider quite often, comes in handy for lots of things. I'll check out the Dewalt, always fun to look at tools. LOL.
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vzepol
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Post by vzepol on Dec 9, 2016 11:02:02 GMT -8
I am fortunate enough to have both and use them often. Whether using a chop saw or table saw, triple check how square the blade is to the guide. I also tend to use stop blocks and fixtures to make sure my cuts are where I expect them to be; especially if I need more than one piece.
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roadtripper
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Post by roadtripper on Dec 23, 2016 9:17:06 GMT -8
Well I see this discussion has been going awhile, but I'll share my experience. I've used both professionally most all my life and have more than one of each. First, for the question on trailer work. I'd say if you could just have one or the other it should be a sliding compound miter saw. I've trimmed out many custom homes and would often take the chop saw and a portable table saw, but really, quite often just the miter saw and never just the table saw. In my opinion, I prefer the 10" saw over the 12" miter saw. It is much easier to lug around and I feel I can cut with more precision on small trim than with the larger one. I like the 12" for framing or when there is a lot of 4x material. I can't see anything in trailer renovation where 10" wouldn't be ok. For a table saw, I would recommend any of the portable pro types or if you have room (and a 220 power source) a good heavy stationary delta or powermatic. Pretty easy to come by used. I have a classic unisaw that I bought used in about 1979 and it has cut and dadoed many miles of lumber since. I had the bearings replaced once and a new switch once or twice and added an aftermarket fence system and we still use it almost everyday. What ever you get, use good sharp blades that are designed for the use at hand. Hope this helps someone.
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Post by vikx on Dec 23, 2016 22:14:30 GMT -8
Thanks for the great info, Roadtripper.
Agreed, good quality blades are the name of the game with saws...
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chriss
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Post by chriss on Dec 31, 2016 12:17:24 GMT -8
I love my caged jobsite Dewalt table saw. It's designed to be portable and light. My model says it will rip up to 20", but if I tweak the fence, I can go 24-1/2" rips. A good blade is key. I like the Freuds. If you really want a better portable setup, then a Rousseau stand is nice. I have a dewalt 12" compound miter saw (dws780) that's the bomb, but may be overkill for trailer restoration. I use it for everything from cutting beams to small trim details. I would stay with the 10". Blades are cheaper. Saw is cheaper. I don't have any brand loyalty. I happened to get a screaming deal on these from work. I also found when making pieces for my framing, cabinets, and fold out bed, it was handy to have access to a jointer, planer, and sander but I was dealing with a lot of rough stock.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Dec 31, 2016 13:51:01 GMT -8
My BIL has a 10" Delta table saw. I had to rip a board a 2X4 at an angle. that saw was a wonder. it cut so smooth and with such power that it did not even slow down the blade. i have an old craftsman that the ripping fence had come up missing after I loaned it to My brother. Before the ripping fence had came up missing, I remember trying to rip lumber at an angle and what a pain that was. Just not enough power on that old belt drive motor. I still have the saw. I think it is like the 113 pictured in cowcharges posting. I need to get the exact model number from it and get a ripping fence for it. Although it is under powered for doing angle rips it still worked okay for just regular ripping. A higher horse motor would probably do it a world of good too.
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kirkadie
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Post by kirkadie on Dec 31, 2016 17:14:42 GMT -8
My Delta Homecraft from the 40s is powered by a 1 1/2hp motor and a 8 1/4" blade capacity but it'll rip 8 QTR oak and maple till the cows come home. Keep a sharp blade on your saw and feed rate that seems appropriate, set your fence correctly, and it might take a few seconds longer than a big cabinet saw but it'll get the job done, and well. Sharp and smart beats power when you work for free.
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mrmarty51
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Post by mrmarty51 on Dec 31, 2016 19:21:57 GMT -8
My Delta Homecraft from the 40s is powered by a 1 1/2hp motor and a 8 1/4" blade capacity but it'll rip 8 QTR oak and maple till the cows come home. Keep a sharp blade on your saw and feed rate that seems appropriate, set your fence correctly, and it might take a few seconds longer than a big cabinet saw but it'll get the job done, and well. Sharp and smart beats power when you work for free. YUP, More power. LOL I think that My old Sears saw has a 1/2 horse on it. A horse and a half would really make it sing. LOL And beware of blades too. I bought a blade from the local lumber store. Got home, installed the new blade. i did not even get one 2X6 ripped and that blade burned up. I took the burned blade back to the lumber store, and of course thay would not exchange for a different blade. I told the guy thay I did not make it the length of a treated 2X6 and the blade just burned up. OH He says, I didnt know that You were cutting pressure treat, if I would have known that I would have sold You a blade that is designed for wet wood. HA! ! ! ! LOL YUP, there is a huge difference. that wet wood blade is all I think I will run from now on. It also is a nice blade for finish work too. It is listed on the blade for wet wood/plywood/finish. Does a nice job of ripping dry lumber too. Of course that was in My skil saw.
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