bricklayer
New Member
Posts: 10 
Likes: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by bricklayer on Jun 27, 2013 16:16:22 GMT -8
Moving into the final fit and finish on the exterior of the '63 Holly, we will be installing the new one piece aluminum roof this weekend, then, She will see the light of day for the first time in almost a year. This has been a frame up restoration so everything has been removed and replaced with new screws and putty tape. My question is this, is the putty tape enough or do I need to caulk all the joints with a non silicone caulk as a safe guard? Any help would be appreciated.
Ben
|
|
Ten
3K Member
Posts: 3,431
Likes: 1,460
70 Shasta 16SC + 1964 Airflyte
Currently Offline
|
Post by Ten on Jun 27, 2013 16:28:46 GMT -8
Ideally, new putty is all it should take. That is all that was used on new construction when they were built.
As far as caulk goes, the answer would be
NO.
Caulking is usually regarded as a huge "No-No". The day will come that it will need resealing, or some other reason to have to open it back up and the caulk will become just a time-consuming nightmare to remove.
|
|
|
|
Post by universalexports on Jun 27, 2013 17:22:33 GMT -8
Ideally, new putty is all it should take. That is all that was used on new construction when they were built. As far as caulk goes, the answer would be NO.Caulking is usually regarded as a huge "No-No". The day will come that it will need resealing, or some other reason to have to open it back up and the caulk will become just a time-consuming nightmare to remove. What he said!!! |
|
boandsusan
Active Member
Posts: 282
Likes: 34
Currently Offline
|
Post by boandsusan on Jun 27, 2013 19:13:12 GMT -8
Ditto.....NO CAULK.....PLEASE,NO CAULK! Been there...done that.....NEVER want to do it again!
|
|
Hamlet
2K Member
Posts: 2,791
Likes: 910
Currently Offline
|
Post by Hamlet on Jun 27, 2013 19:45:39 GMT -8
I guess Hamlet chiming in at this point would be redundant, but what the heck... DON'T DO IT! The butyl tape, done correctly, will last for years.
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Jun 27, 2013 21:24:15 GMT -8
I agree! If there is a gap or iffy area, you can use a tiny dab of gutter seal. Do NOT caulk a vintage trailer.
|
|
bricklayer
New Member
Posts: 10
Likes: 4
Currently Offline
|
Post by bricklayer on Jun 28, 2013 8:31:57 GMT -8
Thank you all. I was pretty sure that was the answer I would get, but I had to be sure. Thinking of all the new framing, sub floor, flooring, and most of all the new birch paneling getting even a little bit damp gives me nightmares and sets on panic attacks. I almost do not want to pull her outside.  (But the first time I do can not come soon enough!) Thank you again, Ben |
|
|
|
Post by shastadisasta on Sept 14, 2013 20:42:08 GMT -8
Since the resounding answer is no to caulk.... What might my best option be with this holy living nightmare --- I'm up to my eyeballs in this nightmare of a mess and I really want to cry. someone put RV sealant over every conceivable seam, joint, crack, ledge, rim, around the lights, windows, vents, rails ... I mean everywhere ... And then didn't take the time to smooth it out at all. It's lumpy and bumpy and just awful.
d post a picture but I'm not sure how to.... Trust me when I say... It's nightmarish. At best.
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Sept 14, 2013 21:24:30 GMT -8
Welcome Shastadisasta. Hours of work ahead but it can be done. Take it one step at a time. If you pull the windows, they are easier to pick and clean on a bench. Paint stripper works and careful scraping. For the skin, cut away the worst and use chemicals on the rest. There is a silicone remover that works pretty well, tho expensive: DSR 5 www.amazon.com/DSR-5-Silicone-Adhesive-Remover-BOTTLE/dp/B00ANN7IAOHang in there. We are here for you. |
|
|
|
Post by shastadisasta on Sept 15, 2013 6:45:54 GMT -8
I purchased some. Still having troubles figuring out how it works best. It seems to just roll right down the silicone/ sealant and drip down the trailer. I spray, let it sit a spell, spray again, scrape, swear like a sailor, repeat. But it's still a goopy mess. Once the big chunks are gone, how do I clean up the remaining sticky gooey residue ? More expensive DSR-5?
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Sept 15, 2013 8:44:09 GMT -8
|
|
mobiltec
5K Member
I make mistakes so you don't have to...
Posts: 9,766
Likes: 3,689
1954 Jewel In Progress...
Currently Offline
|
Post by mobiltec on Sept 15, 2013 9:26:58 GMT -8
You must follow the directions exactly with DSR-5. It will work just fine but you need to be patient and work it with the little plastic putty tool that comes with it. If you don't have one, then you need to pick up a plastic putty knife and use that...
I have done a video on this stuff and although it takes time, it works really well. Now adays I just don't buy a trailer that is covered with goop. but when it is there, this is the stuff to use as long as you use it AS DIRECTED...
Here's the video.
|
|
|
|
Post by vulcancowboy on Sept 26, 2013 15:44:28 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by vikx on Sept 26, 2013 22:07:35 GMT -8
Buy RV putty tape at your local RV store. It's not grooved as your link, but smooth. Or you can get butyl at VTS: www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Butyl_Putty_Tape_p/vts-419.htmRV putty tape is a mix and comes with crinkly paper. True Butyl has slick paper. I hot climates, butyl tends to ooze a lot more than RV putty tape. (which is often called butyl but isn't) |
|
shastaholics
New Member
Posts: 16
Likes: 6
Currently Offline
|
Post by shastaholics on Sept 27, 2013 1:33:20 GMT -8
The vibrating tools out now are great for anything from peeling caulk, paint, cutting door jambs, notching wood, cutting metal. I added some extra electrical outlets in my Shasta and this tool worked perfectly/ accurately for cutting out the boxes. Harbor Freight tools is the cheapest. I think mine was 25 or 30 dollars. They always have 20 percent off coupons. Don't get a cordless one!!
|
|
(But the first time I do can not come soon enough!)
